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How long does check engine light take to reset.

#1 User is offline   acklavidian 

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 08:53 AM

I filled up my tank the other day and realized this morning that the check engine light is on. I freaked out for a second, but I see now that my gas cap was barely screwed on. Like not threaded at all. I tightened it down and turned on my car on only for a second because I just arrived to work, and the light was still on. How long does it usually take before the light would go off.

I know that I need to get the codes read at a parts store, but I'm stuck at work and all I can think about is my poor s2000 in the parking lot. Please someone put my mind at ease before I have a panic attack.

#2 User is offline   s2kreeper 

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 09:21 AM

Light won't go out once a code is tripped without clearing it. You could disconnect the battery and let it sit for 15 min or so to reset it. If it comes on again, you know you have an actual problem that isn't just the gas cap. You're fine :)

This post has been edited by s2kreeper: 27 August 2013 - 09:22 AM


#3 User is offline   MR.T 

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 10:42 AM

I'm new to Hondas, but in most cars, check engine lights, as long as they are resolved, will go out. You must first satisfy the monitors that the ecu requires per dtc.

If its a gas cap code you'll probably get a P1456 code.

Yes, get it checked first. It may be something a little more dire than just a loose gas cap.

You can clear your own code. There is a "clear a cel" DIY in the sticky section of this forum.

Sorry to not ease your mind.

#4 User is offline   d-bo 

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 12:48 PM

You can disconnect battery or pull the ecu//fuse (while car is off) it will clear the code but the system wont be ready for ~50 miles
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#5 User is offline   SouthDakotaS2K 

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 04:07 PM

Evap is a two trip code. It will take a bit of driving but it will eventually clear itself out.
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#6 User is offline   iamxpL 

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 06:39 AM

MY06 + we actually dont get a CEL for it. it just tells us gas cap is open. lol that would freak me out too.
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#7 User is offline   ForNgoods 

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 07:39 AM

got the same warning for the exact same reason on my 04 pilot. took about 1.5 tanks of gas to clear (450 miles roughly) without me disconnecting the battery.
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#8 User is offline   MR.T 

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 08:13 AM

Southdakotas2k is right. If its an evap code, it will be a 2 cycle code to satisfy monitor criteria. It has nothing to do with mileage or time driving, but everything to do with temps, level of fuel in tank, how long the car is parked, etc..

An experienced tech can satisfy an ecu monitor in 5 minutes if he knows what the ecu is looking for.

As said before, have the codes read (though I suggest buying a cheap scan tool (20-40$) ) if it's P1456, clear it, Or just let it ride and see if it resolves itself. If its another code you'll have to dig a little deeper.

#9 User is offline   acklavidian 

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 08:48 AM

Reset fixed it for about 500mi or so. Came on again. Its a p1457 code which is a evap valve assembly. What kind of symptoms does it cause on a running engine? I miss a few cylinders every 100mi maybe. Its rare but shouldn't happen. Does the gas cap not being tight cause extra wear on the evap assembly? What exactly does the evap assembly do?

#10 User is offline   acklavidian 

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 08:48 AM

Reset fixed it for about 500mi or so. Came on again. Its a p1457 code which is a evap valve assembly. What kind of symptoms does it cause on a running engine? I miss a few cylinders every 100mi maybe. Its rare but shouldn't happen. Does the gas cap not being tight cause extra wear on the evap assembly? What exactly does the evap assembly do?

#11 User is offline   MR.T 

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 12:27 PM

P1457 is not the gas cap code, so you can eliminate that from your "parts to buy list"

In the old cars there used to be a vent built into the gas cap that would vent the gas tank and relieve gas fumes into the open air. Without a vent of some sort the gas tank could collapse due to negative pressures. Think of leaving a plastic gas can out in the sun with the cap on, then putting it in a cooler place.. It'll actually start to cave in.
An evap system is the cleaner way to vent the gas tank, it takes the fumes of gas that have evaporated from your fuel tank, sucks them through a charcoal filled canister, and through a series of solenoids/valves, sends the fumes back into the intake to be burned in the combustion process.
It does this because the fumes that vent directly off of your gas tank are a much worse pollutant than the catalyst managed fumes from the tail pipe.
Do a wiki or YouTube search for a deeper understanding, that's how I learned. You can also look up "black magic" and evap codes should be in there somewhere, haha.



Are you doing your own work? if so, I can walk you through diagnosing the codes. Billman did a write up that I used, but I had to go a step farther.

If you're not doing your own work, be prepared to visit the stealership, or a shop that knows evap diagnostics and has the equipment to diagnose/repair. You may be going back multiple times though. 90% of techs just throw parts at these problems, there is never any true diagnostics involved.

#12 User is offline   acklavidian 

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 01:07 PM

I do the work myself, but I thought I would just buy a new module to replace the assembly. Why do I need to run diagnostics if I can just replace the assembly for $30 or so. I'd rather just replace the assembly than try to repair it. Unless its really easy or something.

This post has been edited by acklavidian: 04 September 2013 - 01:13 PM


#13 User is offline   MR.T 

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 02:20 PM

There are many components in the system. If you start just throwing parts in there you're likely to be 1,000$ in the hole by the time you finish.

#14 User is offline   MR.T 

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 02:24 PM

The p1457 code doesn't pinpoint which solenoid is bad, it just tells you that there's a leak on the "canister to purge" side of your evap system, the other side being the "gas tank to canister" side of the system. That's why you have to go through some steps to diagnose properly.

The only affect evap should have on your car's performance would be in the form of a vac leak, possibly causing a lean condition depending on how bad the leak was. I experienced some performance issues, but I didn't throw any other codes as a result.

#15 User is offline   acklavidian 

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 04:40 PM

Well I didn't have time to work on it this time this weekend so I have done anything to it yet, but this morning my engine light turned off after being on the whole week. This morning it ran great too. However, at lunch it started running really bad. I was almost empty so I put some gas in it. It ran a little better, but only in random intervals. It will run great for a few minutes then it will start misfiring, and die.

#16 User is offline   MR.T 

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 08:58 PM

 acklavidian, on 09 September 2013 - 04:40 PM, said:

Well I didn't have time to work on it this time this weekend so I have done anything to it yet, but this morning my engine light turned off after being on the whole week. This morning it ran great too. However, at lunch it started running really bad. I was almost empty so I put some gas in it. It ran a little better, but only in random intervals. It will run great for a few minutes then it will start misfiring, and die.


damn dude. sounds like you have a few things to address.

if you're truly getting a misfire, check these to stickies out.

http://www.s2ki.com/...have-a-misfire/

http://www.s2ki.com/...misfire-thread/

but if you're not getting any specific misfire dtc's that's kind of a hard one, because there are all types of things that could make your car "feel" like it was missing. maybe look into MAP related problems in the under the hood sticky section.

sounds like your evap dtc might be intermittent. being that it went off on it's own let it ride for a bit, but if it comes back you'll need to address the issue.

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