How long does check engine light take to reset.
Posted 27 August 2013 - 08:53 AM
I know that I need to get the codes read at a parts store, but I'm stuck at work and all I can think about is my poor s2000 in the parking lot. Please someone put my mind at ease before I have a panic attack.
Posted 27 August 2013 - 09:21 AM
This post has been edited by s2kreeper: 27 August 2013 - 09:22 AM
Posted 27 August 2013 - 10:42 AM
If its a gas cap code you'll probably get a P1456 code.
Yes, get it checked first. It may be something a little more dire than just a loose gas cap.
You can clear your own code. There is a "clear a cel" DIY in the sticky section of this forum.
Sorry to not ease your mind.
Posted 27 August 2013 - 12:48 PM
2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII.
11.4 @ 127 93oct 25psi 411hp/333tq 35R
Posted 28 August 2013 - 06:39 AM
Posted 28 August 2013 - 08:13 AM
An experienced tech can satisfy an ecu monitor in 5 minutes if he knows what the ecu is looking for.
As said before, have the codes read (though I suggest buying a cheap scan tool (20-40$) ) if it's P1456, clear it, Or just let it ride and see if it resolves itself. If its another code you'll have to dig a little deeper.
Posted 04 September 2013 - 08:48 AM
Posted 04 September 2013 - 08:48 AM
Posted 04 September 2013 - 12:27 PM
In the old cars there used to be a vent built into the gas cap that would vent the gas tank and relieve gas fumes into the open air. Without a vent of some sort the gas tank could collapse due to negative pressures. Think of leaving a plastic gas can out in the sun with the cap on, then putting it in a cooler place.. It'll actually start to cave in.
An evap system is the cleaner way to vent the gas tank, it takes the fumes of gas that have evaporated from your fuel tank, sucks them through a charcoal filled canister, and through a series of solenoids/valves, sends the fumes back into the intake to be burned in the combustion process.
It does this because the fumes that vent directly off of your gas tank are a much worse pollutant than the catalyst managed fumes from the tail pipe.
Do a wiki or YouTube search for a deeper understanding, that's how I learned. You can also look up "black magic" and evap codes should be in there somewhere, haha.
Are you doing your own work? if so, I can walk you through diagnosing the codes. Billman did a write up that I used, but I had to go a step farther.
If you're not doing your own work, be prepared to visit the stealership, or a shop that knows evap diagnostics and has the equipment to diagnose/repair. You may be going back multiple times though. 90% of techs just throw parts at these problems, there is never any true diagnostics involved.
Posted 04 September 2013 - 01:07 PM
This post has been edited by acklavidian: 04 September 2013 - 01:13 PM
Posted 04 September 2013 - 02:24 PM
The only affect evap should have on your car's performance would be in the form of a vac leak, possibly causing a lean condition depending on how bad the leak was. I experienced some performance issues, but I didn't throw any other codes as a result.
Posted 09 September 2013 - 04:40 PM
Posted 10 September 2013 - 08:58 PM
damn dude. sounds like you have a few things to address.
if you're truly getting a misfire, check these to stickies out.
but if you're not getting any specific misfire dtc's that's kind of a hard one, because there are all types of things that could make your car "feel" like it was missing. maybe look into MAP related problems in the under the hood sticky section.
sounds like your evap dtc might be intermittent. being that it went off on it's own let it ride for a bit, but if it comes back you'll need to address the issue.