Nickamsweet's AP1 MCBP Restoration/Rebuild
04-22-2014, 01:49 AM
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Nickamsweet's AP1 MCBP Restoration/Rebuild
After saving and saving for a house, finally moving in AND then decorating the place it's time for my focus to finally go back to the S2000. The poor thing hasn't seen much love, apart from the services and so on.
The car is at 110k miles and the engine on roughly 40k miles, she is also a Jap import with the cloth center seats and japanese writing everywhere, this does make reading the fuses slightly difficult. The F20C seems in good condition but I need to do a couple checks over it before supercharging it with the TTS Supercharger kit (around 350rwhp), this includes uprated 'AP2' parts such as retainers.
The gearbox is notchy, and have tried fluids so I am going to drop it out of the car and rebuild with new synchro meshes and another other parts that are needed. The differential will also have the same treatment as well as a 4.56 final drive to help with acceleration rather than top speed. You can't go faster than 100mph in UK or otherwise it's an instaban also the car will mainly see weekend rather than be a daily.
I will be dropping subframes and suspension parts and protecting her completely from the crap that is all over the UK roads, as well as swap out the bushings (seriously worn) with the powerflex parts.
So far there are no exterior mods planned apart from the AP2 headlight/tailight conversion and maybe a bumper or two. It will also see a paint job of some sort but haven't decided on it being a part or full respray (depending on cost) BUT it will remain this colour as I just love it so much. Since it's a weekend warrior I am still undecided as to keep her looking like a pristine example of a stock s2000 OR go all out and just have this mental car in my garage (but styling could age over time).
Anyway here are some pictures...
BE WARNED THEY ARE EXTREMELY GRAPHIC!!!
Keyed all the way down the passenger side...
Some more rust...
Although the custom Bird Bath was pricey, WCC hooked me up though! (leaky roof)
So if you haven't passed out yet in sheer horror, I have one good picture... she's in the operatin theatre... awaiting the doctor.
The car is at 110k miles and the engine on roughly 40k miles, she is also a Jap import with the cloth center seats and japanese writing everywhere, this does make reading the fuses slightly difficult. The F20C seems in good condition but I need to do a couple checks over it before supercharging it with the TTS Supercharger kit (around 350rwhp), this includes uprated 'AP2' parts such as retainers.
The gearbox is notchy, and have tried fluids so I am going to drop it out of the car and rebuild with new synchro meshes and another other parts that are needed. The differential will also have the same treatment as well as a 4.56 final drive to help with acceleration rather than top speed. You can't go faster than 100mph in UK or otherwise it's an instaban also the car will mainly see weekend rather than be a daily.
I will be dropping subframes and suspension parts and protecting her completely from the crap that is all over the UK roads, as well as swap out the bushings (seriously worn) with the powerflex parts.
So far there are no exterior mods planned apart from the AP2 headlight/tailight conversion and maybe a bumper or two. It will also see a paint job of some sort but haven't decided on it being a part or full respray (depending on cost) BUT it will remain this colour as I just love it so much. Since it's a weekend warrior I am still undecided as to keep her looking like a pristine example of a stock s2000 OR go all out and just have this mental car in my garage (but styling could age over time).
Anyway here are some pictures...
BE WARNED THEY ARE EXTREMELY GRAPHIC!!!
Keyed all the way down the passenger side...
Some more rust...
Although the custom Bird Bath was pricey, WCC hooked me up though! (leaky roof)
So if you haven't passed out yet in sheer horror, I have one good picture... she's in the operatin theatre... awaiting the doctor.
04-22-2014, 02:44 AM
#2
Subscribing, signing in and raising a glass to a like-minded friend.
I see nothing but potential. A huge thumbs up for saving for the house and moving in - it takes SO much discipline so well done.
I think that's possibly the best effort on a boot install i've ever seen, a proud starting moment.
I see nothing but potential. A huge thumbs up for saving for the house and moving in - it takes SO much discipline so well done.
I think that's possibly the best effort on a boot install i've ever seen, a proud starting moment.
04-24-2014, 12:36 AM
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Quick update:
With the rust being prominent throughout most of the bolts I have come to the realisation that progress will be slow with knuckles being severly damaged. I have managed to undo the dreaded hex propshaft bolts with relative ease; I used a tight fitting 3/8" hex socket and taking up the slack so it's tight and then gave it a quick turn with the hand. This method seemed to crack them undone with no damage (all 6).
Rear bumper, fog and tailights all removed, no crash bar though which is kind of confusing
Do JDM cars not have a crash bar installed from the factory?
I also did a quick check on 2 of the rear subframe bolts and they turned with relative ease on a 500mm breaker bar. Check your subframe bolts guys!
Anyway pictures...
These matts, from Tesco @ £10, are just too good to pass on and they make tinkering with the car easier, comfortable and most importantly enjoyable. These also keep the warmth from escaping my body and going in to the concrete floor that I have to lay on.
Quite surprised how few nuts and bolts hold the bumper on to an s2k, but she came off easily, minus breaking one little tab that slots in to the plastic side clips and breaking a cheap attempt at a fog light (on import to the UK a fog light is fitted, apparently using woodscrews).
Lights also removed... anybody want them?
I had lifted the car prior to undoing the axle nut and since I had no one to help me with the brakes it became a problem. Everytime I put a bit of leverage on the nut the hub would just spin, even with handbrake on. I managed to get around this issue by doing putting the wheel back on and placing an axle stand under tyre.
Now on to the rest of the bolts...
Planning to have subframe removed by weekend...
With the rust being prominent throughout most of the bolts I have come to the realisation that progress will be slow with knuckles being severly damaged. I have managed to undo the dreaded hex propshaft bolts with relative ease; I used a tight fitting 3/8" hex socket and taking up the slack so it's tight and then gave it a quick turn with the hand. This method seemed to crack them undone with no damage (all 6).
Rear bumper, fog and tailights all removed, no crash bar though which is kind of confusing
Do JDM cars not have a crash bar installed from the factory?I also did a quick check on 2 of the rear subframe bolts and they turned with relative ease on a 500mm breaker bar. Check your subframe bolts guys!
Anyway pictures...
These matts, from Tesco @ £10, are just too good to pass on and they make tinkering with the car easier, comfortable and most importantly enjoyable. These also keep the warmth from escaping my body and going in to the concrete floor that I have to lay on.
Quite surprised how few nuts and bolts hold the bumper on to an s2k, but she came off easily, minus breaking one little tab that slots in to the plastic side clips and breaking a cheap attempt at a fog light (on import to the UK a fog light is fitted, apparently using woodscrews).
Lights also removed... anybody want them?
I had lifted the car prior to undoing the axle nut and since I had no one to help me with the brakes it became a problem. Everytime I put a bit of leverage on the nut the hub would just spin, even with handbrake on. I managed to get around this issue by doing putting the wheel back on and placing an axle stand under tyre.
Now on to the rest of the bolts...
Planning to have subframe removed by weekend...
04-27-2014, 11:22 PM
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Cheers mate.
On with the update, was a busy weekend and managed to finally remove the exhaust and subframe after what seemed like a rusted nightmare!
These 3 bolts just could not be undone, so I went to the other side of the Catalytic Converter and proceeded to try there. Again no luck so I took out my dremel and cut those bolts, while being very careful once the shaft had been cut through. The springs are under a bit of compression so they fly out once cut, I just put a bit of metal behind them and cut them 'down wind' of the spring to avoid injury.
With the exhaust removed it was time for the subframe to be pulled out, wasn't a bad job apart from there being 4 brackets instead of 2 for the handbrake cable. This became obvious half way through the dropping but didn't really cause an issue. To remove the Evap you can unbolt the honeycomb box bracket off the subframe and disconnect the largest diamater hose that's at the rear most of the system and connected to a T-piece.
Next jobs are dropping the fuel tank, cutting the holes for the facelift rear tail lights, prepping body for underseal and removing the differential so it can be refurbed/improved
On with the update, was a busy weekend and managed to finally remove the exhaust and subframe after what seemed like a rusted nightmare!
These 3 bolts just could not be undone, so I went to the other side of the Catalytic Converter and proceeded to try there. Again no luck so I took out my dremel and cut those bolts, while being very careful once the shaft had been cut through. The springs are under a bit of compression so they fly out once cut, I just put a bit of metal behind them and cut them 'down wind' of the spring to avoid injury.
With the exhaust removed it was time for the subframe to be pulled out, wasn't a bad job apart from there being 4 brackets instead of 2 for the handbrake cable. This became obvious half way through the dropping but didn't really cause an issue. To remove the Evap you can unbolt the honeycomb box bracket off the subframe and disconnect the largest diamater hose that's at the rear most of the system and connected to a T-piece.
Next jobs are dropping the fuel tank, cutting the holes for the facelift rear tail lights, prepping body for underseal and removing the differential so it can be refurbed/improved
04-28-2014, 02:06 AM
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Dang, keep up the good work man! It's going to be a money pit, but you will know for sure that the car has no damages afterward. I think you should go widebody at this time too since you're going to repaint the car.
04-28-2014, 02:30 AM
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I was tempted to go widebody, but that's so far down the line I haven't thought about it too much. My garage door isn't the widest either so I don't think I could pull it off anyway
My style of modifying is trying to make it look OEM, the best version you can buy but with it being a tweak so it's a little bit special (rare paint colour, wheels etc) so I am hoping to put this towards the S2000. The UK never recieved the Type S or CR so I am thinking of making my car a very unique OEM style S2000. It's a JDM Import anyway, MCBP colour isn't in the AP2 style + like I said there were no Type S in the UK sooo I am thinking it would be a pretty unique/special car.
I had previously upgraded a 1.4l hatchback to mimic the 2.0l version and it received really positive comments. You couldn't get the 2.0l version of my car in that particular colour (limited to 1.4/1.25 only), see pics.
From this (generic stock fiesta image)
to...
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04-28-2014, 02:32 AM
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Check out my build thread. https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/104...wonders-build/
I would totally recommend APR Widebody kit since it look like OEM on steroid!!
I would totally recommend APR Widebody kit since it look like OEM on steroid!!
04-29-2014, 11:28 PM
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UPDATE
Quick and easy, removed the cover at the top of the subframe. Only seems to be rusting from one corner so may have a look as to why this is the cause...
Removing Differential
To remove the bolts that connect the CV to the differential I rested a 14mm spanner on the nut and a breaker bar on the bolt head. I then ensured that the spanner had full face contact using my thumb and then gave the breaker bar a sudden jarring force, this seemed to crack and then came undone fairly easily.
Driver Side
Passenger Side
I then removed the 4 nuts at the back of the differential while supporting it with the trolley jack. The front 4 bolts that hold the diff mount bushings to the subframe were undone and the diff lowered while sliding it side to side to remove the axles.
I also opened up the draining bolt to let out the oil, didn't seem too bad with the colour but on the magnetic drain plug I noticed these little fragments, which kinda worried me as I only ever got very fine filings before.
Mini Tip
To keep everything clean and organised I have been using these smaller zip lock bags which seem to be the perfect size to hold each mini-jobs bolts and nuts.
Quick and easy, removed the cover at the top of the subframe. Only seems to be rusting from one corner so may have a look as to why this is the cause...
Removing Differential
To remove the bolts that connect the CV to the differential I rested a 14mm spanner on the nut and a breaker bar on the bolt head. I then ensured that the spanner had full face contact using my thumb and then gave the breaker bar a sudden jarring force, this seemed to crack and then came undone fairly easily.
Driver Side
Passenger Side
I then removed the 4 nuts at the back of the differential while supporting it with the trolley jack. The front 4 bolts that hold the diff mount bushings to the subframe were undone and the diff lowered while sliding it side to side to remove the axles.
I also opened up the draining bolt to let out the oil, didn't seem too bad with the colour but on the magnetic drain plug I noticed these little fragments, which kinda worried me as I only ever got very fine filings before.
Mini Tip
To keep everything clean and organised I have been using these smaller zip lock bags which seem to be the perfect size to hold each mini-jobs bolts and nuts.
