blueosprey90

I suspected that I might have fried my alternator during the winter attempting to charge the battery. Feared that I bollixed it up when I turned the emergency shut off switch to "off" without first turning off the charger. But couldn't be sure. No ignition light and my electrical testing was inconclusive. I took the alternator to Autozone to test, but their test also inconclusive since they didn't have a test for my particular alternator.

So having got the car started yesterday evening, I found a old school shop that rebuilds starters and alternators not too far away and took it there at the crack of dawn. On testing, it was a fail. But I still wanted to run the engine a few more times, check more thoroughly for leaks, dial in the timing etc., so I brought the alternator home and ran the car a few more times. Swapped back in the intended distributor for this engine, set the timing at 25 degrees advance at 3,500 rpm, balanced the carbs, replaced the starter pull and puttered around. Then took the alternator back to the shop for repair. So the car will be sitting until that is completed.

The engine sounds pretty nice. Maybe a slight skip. Not sure how to interpret them, but the EGT gauges seem to suggest that front carbs is running richer (cooler) than the rear.

In the meanwhile, I checked my cell phone and had a long message from Hap, my engine builder, inviting me to call so he could talk me through the engine starting sequence. Came in days ago, and I missed it since I'm a Luddite and I only turn my cell phone on when I want to make an outgoing call or when I know, in advance, that someone is planning to call me. I've also come across some obviously old messages from Aashish.

In any event, although it will be tight schedule wise, I'm planning to race May 5th and 6th. Need to start assembling my gear.

A 2

^ I bet those messages I left are from the time you went to the ER having cut your finger.

blueosprey90

Westech EGT gauge: As installed:

Left gauge is the rear header/carburetor. Right gauge is the front header/carburetor. Gauge connections are at the top and bottom. Top is red-green, front header/carburetor, right gauge. Bottom is white-black, rear header/carburetor, left gauge. Read the gauge side, not the indicator origin side.

Having mapped this carefully, I'm confused already. Forget about the stress of racing and trying to make adjustments on the fly between runs.

Need to put big, big tags on the dash F and R.

blueosprey90

I dropped the MGA off of the jackstands last night, so this thread must soon come to an end.

I didn't accomplish nearly all I had hoped for during the off season. But I finally have a new VSCCA-legal race engine which I hope lasts for at least 15 miles. The old engine is my new spare, which is nice to have as these things tend to blow up pretty frequently.

I need to do a few final tweaks, but I'm planning to run at Lime Rock this Friday and Saturday. Intent is to break in the engine, set the timing and fine tune the carbs. Weather forecast is for rain on Friday. Most unfortunate since my tires have little tread left and since I neglected to purchase that car cover.

pgss2k

Season 7 to begin!
In for updates and best wishes for success this season!

A 2

I read on Facebook that this insurance company insures race cars and certain types of racing.

https://www.motorsportinsurancegroup.com/Default.aspx

They don't insure endurance racing. You may want to see if this covers the MG for the season.