Tmayne124

First off my wheels have finally arrived after 6 months from Work Wheels [attachment=77853:IMAG0174.jpg] However I'm not ready to mount them up just yet as I have my fenders rolled but the last thing to do is CAMBER for the rear -3 degrees. Now idk if my local Tires Plus or Pep Boys can do this for me or not haven't asked and I know they only list camber adjustment as something done in the alignment process. So my question is if its possible to buy one of those camber measurement tools and do it myself or if I adjust the camber do I also need to adjust the Toe? If not then is this something I can do myself on a weekend before putting on the wheels if so what is the difficulty level as I know there is a bolt used to adjust it located on the car that needs to be turned. Answers are very much appreciated guys as once i get new pads and rotors and some G2 + brake fluid, Challenge SS brake lines installed and then buy tires il be busy for 2-3days straight.

engifineer

I cant remember what the stock range is spec'd from the factory, but most of those shops will only adjust within factory spec. I use a one man shop that does most of the local autox peoples cars to do mine (he is much cheaper, better and will do any spec you wish).

You can do home alignments, but you do need to read up on it. It is more time consuming at home. Ensuring you are taking the right measurements, rolling the car back and forth to settle the suspension between adjustments (unless you have turn plates) and ensuring you adjust in the correct order is key. I have done mine, but tend to just take it in to my alignment guy normally and then just tweak the settings for autox if I need to from there.

There is a couple of threads on here somewhere about how to do your own that can help you.

Tmayne124

Man thanks for the response I may never get my wheels installed I stay in Augusta, GA and highly doubt we have any shops around here that will do it.

engifineer

I have to think someone around you should. But I am not from your area so maybe if someone from the forum in your area knows of a shop? Otherwise you could do the alignment yourself. If you read up on methods for doing it and take your time you can get it done. And while shops like to boast about the machines they use, those machines typically help them be more efficient, but if done right and attention is paid to detail, you can do just an accurate job of alignment on toe and camber (caster is a bit harder but can be done) yourself as on a machine.

Manga_Spawn

The firestone I go to does it. We won't really be able to tell you what the shops in your area can do your best bet is to post in your local forum and see where other people take their cars.

Tmayne124

Yea tried but no hits guess no one in Augusta runs camber on any of their cars

Tmayne124

Yea the way it is going seems doing it myself is the only option or go out of town

As for setting the -3 camber for the rear would be the simple part its figuring out what the toe setting would be as how do I get those numbers. I see there are a lot of DIY's on how to adjust the caster, camber, toe settings but for the most part all these are reffering to the factory alignment specs. So considering my car is least 1" lowered and my wheel specs are 18x8/18x9 im 100% sure im to NOT use those numbers.

I have also noticed the string method and saw videos but no one actually detailing how you use the string just most people showing how to wrap it around the car and measure the distance from the wheel to the string(or the front rim to string/rear of rim to string). My conclusion to this is once you have the string setup get it as close to the car as possible without actually touching the car and the goal is to get the wheels as close to touching the string as possible? As the way I see it if I just do toe in that will get the rear of the wheel closer to the string and if I do toe out that will get the front of the wheel closer to the string. Since word is our cars benifit from toe in does it mean I should get the rear of the wheel as close to the string as possible on all 4corners? Im trying to learn how to do alot of these things myself to save money and as it beats driving hundreds of mile outta town. But If im 10000% wrong then Il say screw it and just have some rubbing rear tires.

engifineer

To adjust toe with the string method, you need the string to be parallel with the centerline of the car. So you can go off of the hubs, but you have to account for the different track width front and rear (Someone has posted info on that here somewhere). Or you could get your two strings an equal distance from the rear hubs, then measure up front to get the strings parallel with each other, then measure from both front hubs and start moving the strings until they are parallel, equal distances from the rear hubs and equal distances from the front... kind of a trial and error method but will work if you dont have the track width difference numbers.

Once the strings are set up, it does not matter how far you are front each wheel as long as they are parallel with the car centerline. Then you measure from the front of the wheel to the string and the back of the wheel to the string. You can then do the math to determine the toe angle.

Another method is just making or buying some toe plates. These only work though once you know the steering wheel is centered. You can set toe regardless, but you may end up with the wheel not being centered if you started that way, or if you adjust one side more than the other. So its all about taking your time and being careful.

In the end, you are just measuring the difference between the distance across the front edge of the tire vs the rear.

Another method some people use is sticking a tack (Short one) in the tread at the 3 oclock position when looking at the tire. Do that on both sides (Doesnt really matter if they are in the same place on tread in relation to center). Measure the distance between the two pins. Then roll the car back until the pins are in the 9 oclock position and measure again, ensuring the wheel is straight in both positions. More room for error here, but it gets pretty darned close if you are careful

For settings, start with as much camber as you can get (likely about -2.5 degrees with stock adjusters), zero toe in the front and maybe 1/6" toe in on the rear (total toe, not on each side) and see how that feels. People run a lot of different settings. Those are what I run right now and it has felt pretty good with a few autox runs as a test. Check the STR thread for what people are running for more info.

DavidNJ

Two articles, first "A Poor Man's Alignment": http://www.superstre...onda-civic-si/.

That article uses the string method and a tool I had 42 years ago (it was recommended in Carroll Smith's "Prepare to Win", or rather, was recommended in his 7 articles series in Sports Car Graphic that later become the book. The tool is $150 from Summit Racing now: http://www.summitrac...91000/overview/



However, I also own a digital level and use that. Better...Longacre has a digital camber gauge with magnetic adapter ($230) or with a mount like the SPC ($300). They say the magnets are strong enough the adapter would work through an aluminum wheel: http://www.longacrer...uLevel%E2%84%A2

[media]https://youtu.be/Ba3q_3uIVqU[/media]


Instead of stringing this may be better: "DIY accurate toe alignment with inaccurate tools": http://honda-tech.co...tools-3016688/.

First, the guy who wrote the piece is a genius. His other posted projects include a shock dyno with output the Matlab and using that dyno to match Bilstein shocks to Koni shock behavior. His posts on that are worth the reading just to understand shock "quality" issues.

In this post he builds a simple adapter to mount lasers on each wheel. Remember, the lasers need to clear the bodywork and the rear lasers need to clear the front. However, the setup should be easier, quicker, and more accurate than the string method. It is basically how big dollar setups work.



Also, note that all this has to be done on a level surface. I use 1/8" foot square Masonite shims that I made in 1973. Back then I used a tube filled with colored waterm the ends held up by jack stands. Now a laser would be used.

Also note you will need some slider under the wheels or to roll the car back and forth between measurements. This is because of the friction between the tire and the ground. The adjustment (caster, camber) may raise or lower the car with the tire holding it place. Longacre has a slider, but some grease between two Masonite shims works also, more or less. It is messy though.



The good news is this could all be done at the track...although best with some friends to help.

In oval track racing with a live rear axle, camber can be adjusted independently of caster and is usually done on the fly based on tire temps. Toe is adjusted with toe plates and a tape measure. Toe adjustments are more common because the wheel to wheel contact common in oval racing often knocks out the toe. Sidebar: in the 1990s I ran a limited late model with non-power steering. The manual steering boxes weren't as strong as the power steering ones and were always getting damaged. I think at one point I bought everyone available in NJ. I think I still have 2 or 3 left.

Final note, the most accurate measurements are made off the hub and not the wheel. Wheels can have runout or be bent. The hub is the way the wheel is pointing. I think F1 cars have metal disks that they use instead of the wheels when setting alignment.

Tmayne124

Man this would be perfect but Summit list it only for 13" to 17" wheels mine are 18"