Canadian_CD9A

Hi everybody, I just bought a 2001 AP1 with 99,000 miles. I've noticed that after driving around normally and coming to a stop, there is a burning organic smell (either clutch or brakes). One day, I went to get groceries, came back out 30 minutes later, started the car and sat for 3-4 minutes and smelled it already, so it can't be brakes. The car drives perfectly normally otherwise, so why is there a clutch smell when the car isn't moving? The car apparently had a new OEM clutch put in a couple of months ago, probably relevant.

Car Analogy

First off, there is a cheap clutch out there from Exedy, which they call 'oem', but its not actually oem, and its total crap. Typical lifespan is 20k miles. Hopefully PO installed a real Honda oem, not Exedy so called oem equivalent.

If you are slipping the clutch too much, obviously it will overheat and smell. Forgive my asking, you are confident in your manual shifting competency?

Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup

Canadian_CD9A

Yes; all of my everyday cars for the past 10 years have been manuals and I've never had to replace a clutch. I burnt the original in my Evo, but that was from launching it a few too many times.

I wouldn't be surprised if it's the Exedy in there, but if I fire up the car now and let it idle for a few minutes, it's going to smell without even touching the pedal. That can't be normal for any clutch, it has to be partially engaged sitting still.

zeroptzero

Check the clutch rod freeplay, under dash at the firewall, if you don't have enough freeplay the clutch will slip when it is engaged. That can create the smell. The pedal will move after the clutch install as it breaks-in and that can sometimes close up the freeplay in the clutch rod unexpectedly.

Vanishing Point

Hopefully you aren't sitting at a light with the clutch engaged, that leads to an early demise. It's possible it's the throw out bearing that defective rather than the clutch, but get it checked out before it's inoperable.

Canadian_CD9A

I just confirmed with the previous owner, it's an OEM Honda clutch with resurfaced flywheel installed by a reputable shop. It was done around 800 miles ago.

It already has a date with Honda in 2 days to get a set of DZ102s installed, oil change because it burns a bit, alignment, vehicle inspection so I can register it and a couple of minor nagging issues like sway bar links and a clank in the left rear (probably a lose bolt or axle nut). The clutch was my first concern.

I don't trust myself to adjust the clutch rod, I'll just let them do it.

zeroptzero

They may not be smart enough to check the clutch rod, make sure you request it when you take the car into them just to be sure. They rarely check clutch rods, hence the reason so many of us do our own adjustments to get them accurately set.

As a quick test go and push down lightly on the clutch pedal with your pinky finger, see if there is some play in the pedal before the clutch starts to disengage. If there is no play before the clutch starts to disengage (stiff right from the get-go) then you know there isn't enough free-play in the rod and pedal. You should feel about 1/4 inch of play in the pedal before you feel it bump up against the clutch piston.

slalom44

After taking a spin, put your hand on each wheel near the center caps. If one of them is hotter than the others, you have a sticking pin on your caliper. It may not be apparent while driving around but the smell is a dead giveaway.

Canadian_CD9A

The rears are hotter than the fronts (which I hear is normal), but it does it without moving the car at all. Unless a fluid is burning, it has to be clutch.

The clutch has some play before it starts moving fluid, but I still can't gauge it properly. This isn't something I want to mess up.

Car Analogy

If dealers up there are anything like down here, youd be less likely to screw things up than they would, even if you dont know which end of a wrench is which.

Im guessing they will give you some quote for $1k+ worth of work, which if you have them do, will result in them fixing nothing you are complaining about now, and potentially breaking a few new things. Potentially very expensive things. Which they will then blame on you. They are infallible experts, after all.

Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup