It's dam well Packed up,!
07-21-2016, 01:16 AM
#11
Main relay failure is something that ought to start becoming very common now the cars are getting old.
It's dry joints in the unit, which can be opened and repaired as a spare. Some NSX owners do that...
Easier than getting the fuel pump out, by all accounts.
It's dry joints in the unit, which can be opened and repaired as a spare. Some NSX owners do that...
Easier than getting the fuel pump out, by all accounts.
07-21-2016, 10:43 AM
#12
Thread Starter
We will see when I get a chance , it's on the back burner at the moment life's busy.
Toby Chippo has some thoughts to , all around the same thing so when I have 5 mins will have to do a bit of fault finding.
Toby Chippo has some thoughts to , all around the same thing so when I have 5 mins will have to do a bit of fault finding.
08-04-2016, 11:21 AM
#14
Thread Starter
Roar still sititNg on drive looking forlorn , not had a chance to look at it yet !
Just having a few thoughts , if it turns out to be the alarm or mobilizer caspusing the problem , any one have any clues how to dump the H & P alarm system ? I.e. Do you know where to disconnect and short the its it immobilised ?
Just having a few thoughts , if it turns out to be the alarm or mobilizer caspusing the problem , any one have any clues how to dump the H & P alarm system ? I.e. Do you know where to disconnect and short the its it immobilised ?
08-04-2016, 12:07 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Now found this post, https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/835...#entry21204403
If I get 10 mins will have a look at the weekend , and short the fuel cut off out , if it's that out with the board for repair at work .
If I get 10 mins will have a look at the weekend , and short the fuel cut off out , if it's that out with the board for repair at work .
08-04-2016, 12:26 PM
#16
I had an old (cough) calibra do this
The alarm fitter removed the old one incl in the fitting
If its that
The alarm fitter removed the old one incl in the fitting
If its that
08-07-2016, 09:11 AM
#17
Thread Starter
Right guys, all sorted , note as follows:-
1) it's royal pain getting at the HP box of tricks , take out seat then lots of trim and finally dive under the carpet
2) the twits pop riveted it to the floor !! Why so had to drill out rivets and refit later with bolts.
3) the access end plate is secured with 6 self tappers 2 of which are security screws , I didn't have the appropriate tool so just got the angle grinder out and chopped the heads off.
4) first thing I noted was at some point there had been some moisture ingress, corrosion on the aluminium extrusion that forms the main body of the box
5) it's was clear there had been some over heating of one or two connections in the middle of the connector plug and socket , this also caused a dry joint on the top middle pin from the connector to the board.
[attachment=97699:image.jpg]
6)Re soldered the dry joint and car started fine, but the pin was getting very hot, this wire is the connection to the fuel pump the wires from this pin and one other make the circuit for the fuel pump by the activation of one of the board relays , quite high current for these connectors you can see how the plug and socket are "cooked"
7) also saw a whisk of smoke from the connectors when engine/pump running
8) so I soldered a piece of 1mm2 wire to the finger pin for the relay and brought this out with the loom. I pulled the connector out of the plug/socket , it fell out virtually . I pulled the new wire out of the loom and then using an inline crimp connected this wire to the wire I had soldered onto the back of the board by passing the damaged and over heated pin and socket on the connector.
The car runs fine , no excessive heat on the connections , and no other obvious over loading of board components .
Looking at the unit I would not advise the whack it solution , and I would be worried if the problem continued or was intermittent this might cause a fire , right under your arse !!!
[attachment=97705:image.jpg]
1) it's royal pain getting at the HP box of tricks , take out seat then lots of trim and finally dive under the carpet
2) the twits pop riveted it to the floor !! Why so had to drill out rivets and refit later with bolts.
3) the access end plate is secured with 6 self tappers 2 of which are security screws , I didn't have the appropriate tool so just got the angle grinder out and chopped the heads off.
4) first thing I noted was at some point there had been some moisture ingress, corrosion on the aluminium extrusion that forms the main body of the box
5) it's was clear there had been some over heating of one or two connections in the middle of the connector plug and socket , this also caused a dry joint on the top middle pin from the connector to the board.
[attachment=97699:image.jpg]
6)Re soldered the dry joint and car started fine, but the pin was getting very hot, this wire is the connection to the fuel pump the wires from this pin and one other make the circuit for the fuel pump by the activation of one of the board relays , quite high current for these connectors you can see how the plug and socket are "cooked"
7) also saw a whisk of smoke from the connectors when engine/pump running
8) so I soldered a piece of 1mm2 wire to the finger pin for the relay and brought this out with the loom. I pulled the connector out of the plug/socket , it fell out virtually . I pulled the new wire out of the loom and then using an inline crimp connected this wire to the wire I had soldered onto the back of the board by passing the damaged and over heated pin and socket on the connector.
The car runs fine , no excessive heat on the connections , and no other obvious over loading of board components .
Looking at the unit I would not advise the whack it solution , and I would be worried if the problem continued or was intermittent this might cause a fire , right under your arse !!!
[attachment=97705:image.jpg]
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