Snakecharmer

I recently had my steering alignment set which included the replacement of many bolts and bushes etc on my AP1. (2000)
I have read many articles about the differing set ups that took place during the years of production. My car was set up using
2004-2009 specs. Having had the adjustments done I cannot say that I feel comfortable with the footing and feel that any
undulating road conditions seem to throw the car out of shape.

https://www.flickr.c...57649420046934/


My question is: - Is it appropriate to use 2004-2009 set ups on the 2000 AP1 model?

Thanks in anticipation.

CHIPPO

Not really no, there are many differences both in geometry between early cars and later ones ,differant shock rates, spring rates and ARB stiffness etc ,

Why did they suggest the later settings on an older car with stock suspension , ask them ? There are companies who know what they are doing and will do different things . COG WIM ect but that usually means a discussion with the owner about driving style and usuage

I have poly bushed my car , it's on coil overs and slightly lower , and has some variation to OEM settings it does tramline a bit , might be tyres that as wider than OEM and. Was set up with UK camber in mind by WIM

flanders

Looks like you need a bit more toe in at the rear, this is probably the most important difference between the model years.
Some more negative camber up front wouldn't hurt either but this is not something you would notice much.

tozerman

Those settings are very "conservative" go for more front and rear camber, more rear toe and as much front castor as you can get with your desired camber, or get it done to the settings in the FAQ

RevRanger

Centre Gravity everytime (well every 3 years'ish), yes they aren't cheap but worth every penny in my book (2 1/2 hours drive from me). Top end advice and very very knowledgeable. My S sticks to the road like glue and feels planted.

http://www.centregravity.co.uk

lifecrisis

Center Gravity will make your wallet a lot lighter, but they will give you a smile from ear to ear.

Nick Graves

What's wrong with it? The steering might be a tad lighter and turn-in quicker with 6 degrees of caster. I like it like that. But I hold the wheel in the correct places and push up to turn in. I don't think a lot of caster suits it.

The low rear toe will make it break away a little earlier, but it's sort of easier to predict like that.

You probably need to re-learn the car as is, before deciding whether to tweak it or not.

I used to run 'fast road' settings, but have dialled it back to 'normal' since upgrading to 17" wheels some years ago.