s2000Junky

Monster!

If only the new Miata could put down that kind of power! Good thing it weighs 500lb less then an s2k so it can still have a fighting chance against a BRZ

takchi

In the past 1.5 years, Church's calibration was updated to the latest revision so some people are seeing "lower" numbers than the past. In my experience, it's marginal at around 3% or so. The real difference is about percentage change. Also note, Dynojet power figures can change based on the tire and alignment as well, but I could care less about absolutes since I worry about reliability and deltas.


I have a BRZ and have worked on developing the platform for the past 4 years. In the FT86 world, power figures are hotly debated and it's absolutely annoying because with sufficient dyno tuning time, you can actually extract more power safely and reliably. All this is track proven with HPDE and racing scenarios.


Monster!

If only the new Miata could put down that kind of power! Good thing it weighs 500lb less then an s2k so it can still have a fighting chance against a BRZ
[/quote]

Power is not really a strong point of the BRZ. The torque is actually pretty good with the right header and a very refined tune. The chassis is very good and the stock body lines promote very good aero. To validate this point, we pit a drag race from 80-130mph between a tuned CR with headerback against a factory BRZ. From 80-100, the CR was pulling pretty nicely, but around 100-130 is where the biggest surprise came...the BRZ actually keeps up with the CR and holds its position all the way to 130mph. In that effect, the sleek BRZ lines definitely helped over the high drag CR. A Voltex S2000 that I've toyed with produces high downforce, but also yields pretty significant drag (car slows down quickly if you let off the throttle).

On top of that, you can literally toss the crap out of the BRZ in high speed corners and not really spin out with stock or motorsport grade suspension. The car is very predictable and every S2000 driver that moved to the BRZ has noted how easy and safe the platform is. I can go on and on about it though since I own a CR and a BRZ.

michaelnyden

I was recently at Church and watched a BRZ with jackson racing (stock boost I believe) kit with c30 supercharger I believe and after tune it just barely hit 300! BRZ's don't respond to boost as well without some work it seems compared to our motors with their good flowing heads. People keep chiming in and saying Church shows crank numbers, that is impossible unless the dyno was bolted to the flywheel/crank/output shaft, there are still losses of the drivetrain (transmission, driveshaft, halfshafts, wheel bearings, brake rotors, etc) on Church's dyno...if you use a whp to crank calculator which uses 15% loss like the one here (http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php), you will see that church and comparison dynojet to crank numbers don't line up, Church is still higher but not indicative of crank[shaft] numbers...you can only see those numbers without drivetrain loss on a proper engine dyno.

ie.

michaelnyden

Just to add to this discussion, c38-91 kraftwerks s2000 381whp SAE correction dynojet 381whp then two weeks later 421whp on Church. That's a 10.5% difference between Church and SAE dynojet. So Church numbers are not crank numbers as some believe and SAE correction means a lower number than the usual STD dynojet numbers you see floating around. If you believe the S2000 has 15% loss and the SAE dynojet reflects a 15% loss, then Church is still 4.5% below crank numbers. Then again most people think STD reflects 15% loss and SAE is 4.5% lower than STD on average...so draw your own conclusion(s). If I compare Church to STD dynojet it would be more like Church was only 6% higher reading.

michaelnyden

So to find crank numbers if you believe SAE is the real number on dynojets, then multiply church's numbers by 1.045. If you believe STD dynojet, then multiply church's number by 1.09 to get crank numbers

ddess

I'll second this. Same kraftworks kit on 91 hit 421 on Church's dyno. I ended up bringing down the redline which cut the peak.

My prior motor was a BC2 cams with intake and berk header back with Kpro and a tune. Made 286 on his old calibration. Pulled the cams and lost 20hp.

So to the OP. With cams and all the other bolt on's you'll be close to your 260 whp goal. Throw a 70mm TB and bored intake and your closer.

But to get there without a shadow of a doubt do the 2.4 stroker and call it a day.

At the end of the day they are just peak numbers. Tune on a test pipe and get 80% of the fun for 10% of the price. But why listen to me when I can't take my own advice!!

takchi

Cheater mods.