Station

I just had my yellow box installed yesterday in preparation for the 4.44 going in on Monday. It was installed Jenner's way right by the ECU. Within 10 minutes of the install, my check engine light came on. My GF was the last person to fill it up, so I assumed it was a loose gas cap. I filled up, tightened the cap. reset the CEL, and went about my way.

The light is on again. What's going on? Is there any possible way the Yellow Box wired to the ECU could cause a CEL? I am at a loss. I thought CELs were always smog-related. Is it possible that the yellow box is causing a CEL? Any ideas?

spapdx

The CEL will come on if anything is messed up w/ your car. It could be smog related, it happens if a sensor is unplugged, happens if there is a missfire, or it will happen if wiring messed up (most likely your case). I would double and triple check you have all the wiring right. That is the only thing I could think of that would be wrong....

turbo_pwr

Whoa, ok that's weird. I just spent the afternoon at Jenner's place installing the Yellow Box in my car and I also got the CEL within a few miles of driving. We rechecked the wires and same thing. No idea what the problem can be. I thought it could be the Mugen ECU. But, since you don't have that (assumption being made), that shouldn't be it.

We used Jenner's ODBII software and the CEL code was "speedometer failure". It had nothing to do with smog or emissions.

Asura

Pull the back up fuse to reset the ECU. If it comes back on, have the code checked on an OBD2 scan tool.

turbo_pwr

We reset the ECU about 5 times everytime the code would come back. I think the next thing to do is to wire it up the way xviper did it.

Stratocaster

The common thread here is the installation and the location. Can I get you guys to explain the installation in greater detail?

EDIT Found the install info.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jenner
[B]Here is how simple it is to install:

Take off kick panel. There is one white plastic screw up by the dash, under the end of the rubber around the windshield. There is a red plastic screw in the end of the kick panel by the dead pedal. Pull up on the plastic door sill and free up the end of the kick panel, once this is down, pull it out and manuver it around the hood release.

Locate the accessory power slot in the fuse box. Locate the Honda ground location near the fuse box. Take the red wire from the yellowbox and crimp or solder a sleeve connector on the end, do the same for the black wire, but use a ring or u connector. These are your power and ground. Attach them.

Cut the speed sensor wire

Stratocaster

Sounds like Xviper had the same issue with the installation. Do we have a Model year change issue here?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xviper
[B]https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...?threadid=74688

In the above thread, Jenner and I had a little dialogue going.

xviper

I don't know what's happening here. Maybe Jenner has a "magic" touch, because from the sounds of it, splicing at the ECU doesn't seem to work for you fellas either.
I went directly under the car, unplugged the speed sensor harness, unwrapped as much of the tape as possible so I had a bit of wire to work with. There are three wires - a hot, a ground and the actual signal wire going to the ECU. I believe it is the striped one that is the signal wire - same color as was described by Jenner. Just wrap up all the wiring at the tranny with lots of electric tape and you'll be fine. I got a double bell type wire and ran that wire up to the engine bay just in front of the firewall. Pushed this wire through the rubber grommet under the driver's side footwell and hooked up the Yellow Box there because of the ease of access for calibration and the close proximity to power and ground.
This method worked like a charm. I, too, was pulling my hair out with that CEL.

turbo_pwr

xviper would you mind taking a picture or infamous xviper DIY thread for us retards?

xviper

I just happen to have one:

OK, it's that black harness you see to the right of the red bolt. Use a small screw driver on the snap and it'll slide right off. Once you have removed as much of the wrapping as you can, you will see three wires coming out of that harness:
BRN/YEL = GROUND
YEL/BLU = FROM ECU
BLU/WHT = TO ECU
It's the BLU/WHT one that you want. Cut it so that you have at least an inch or so of wire from the harness to work with. The end coming out of the harness is your "incoming" lead to the yellow box. The other cut end will hook up to the "outgoing" lead of the yellow box. A twin bell wire is handy because usually one wire will have a stripe so you don't get confused at the other end and since both are stuck together, you only basically have one wire to fish around. It's really hard to work under there, so I just twisted the wire ends together and wrapped them really well with electrical tape. When done tightly wrap as much of the wiring with tape as far as you can reach and it'll be fine. Snap the harness back on and the rest you can do under the dash.

ps. Had I known this rear gear thing was going to take off like this, I would have done a complete "how to" on the Yellow Box as well.