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OEM clutch replacement cost

#1 User is offline   liquid215 

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Posted 06 June 2004 - 04:05 PM

Clutch just started slipping & needs to be replaced. How much is the usual quote for a stock clutch replacement? I'm assuming the parts that would get replaced would be the flywheel & pilot bearing, friction disk, throwout bearing, & pressure plate. Any parts I'm missing?

Also how long does it usually take a Honda mechanic to replace a clutch?

Thanks

#2 User is offline   cdelena 

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Posted 06 June 2004 - 04:30 PM

It takes six to nine hours so since labor rates vary it will cost $400 to $800 in labor. Mark up on parts will also vary but the MSRP on OEM parts comes to over $700. Seems like most dealerships quote $1100 to $1400 total.

#3 User is offline   ImportSport 

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Posted 06 June 2004 - 04:43 PM

Quote for $1300 here in Nashville. I laughed all the way up to Ganely Honda in Cleveland :)

#4 User is offline   liquid215 

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Posted 06 June 2004 - 04:54 PM

What are all the oem parts needed cdelena? I can prob. save alot of money by buying all the parts myself from site sponser H and A - Accessories.

#5 User is offline   Popeye 

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Posted 06 June 2004 - 05:27 PM

I wouldn't think you would need a new flywheel just a resurface; I would consider all new bolts for flywheel and pressure plate though.

#6 User is offline   FF2Skip 

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Posted 06 June 2004 - 05:59 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by liquid215
What are all the oem parts needed cdelena?
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#7 User is offline   cdelena 

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Posted 06 June 2004 - 06:20 PM

If you replace all parts it will be pilot and release bearings, FW, FD, and PP. They are lower over the web, but not cheap (over $500 plus shipping). You can resurface a FW but Honda does not recommend it and most dealerships will not do it. I don't really think the bolts need to be replaced every time and Honda does not require it. It is very important to get a mechanic that will throughly clean the bellhousing, shaft, guides, and linkage and then lube properly on assembly.

#8 User is offline   liquid215 

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Posted 06 June 2004 - 06:43 PM

Thanks for the heads up guys. I'm gonna drop the car off at Honda sometime this week for a quote. Hopefully nothing over $1300.

My car is an '01 with 14K miles. I blame the clutch failure due to lots of stop & go traffic in the area that I live in. Still would have liked to get at least 30K out of the stock clutch:o

#9 User is offline   slipstream444 

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Posted 07 June 2004 - 02:01 AM

Volks 17" CE28N, BrakeMan/Ricks's Brake system, KW Varaint 3 suspension, Comptech Ti STB, Rick's X-Brace, OEM Hardtop, Comptech flywheel, ACT PP, 04 Trans, PuddyMod Racing Stage 4 AP2 diff W/MazdaSpeed 4.44 gearset, Comptech Icebox, Rick's 6Plus header with JetHot Extreme Sterling coating, Berk Cat with JetHot Extreme Sterling coating, Comptech exhaust, AP2 Intake valve spring retainers, JDM '03 headlights with chrome housing (USDM cutoff line conversion).

#10 User is offline   slipstream444 

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Posted 07 June 2004 - 02:03 AM


#11 User is offline   gabster 

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  Posted 03 March 2009 - 04:59 PM

Back from the dead.
I am now in need of replacing my clutch. i have just found myself with the harsh reality that this things do not cost the same as my old civics clutch! :(
my questions here is if anybody can help me,

My S besides a K&N filter and a straight pipe , is stock. (04 AP2 45k miles)
i did remove the clutch delay.... :rolleyes:
I don't do much more racing at all except for hitting VTEC at regular basis, on the street.

I am thinking i should just stick with 100% OEM clutch kit... what do you think? would i save some money this way?

My second question is, I have heard over the years that AP1 flywheels are lighter than AP2, is this true? is this a significant difference? if so, does AP1 flywheels bolts on to AP2s?

thanks a lot guys for the help.
:hello:
looking form OEM BLUE Floor mats

#12 User is offline   ksks 

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Posted 04 March 2009 - 03:18 AM

Yes, AP1 flywheel is much lighter than AP2 flywheel. I think it is 14lbs vs 21lbs (approximately). The dimensions are the same so they are interchangable. I prefer AP1 flywheel in my AP2 - I find that the heavier flywheel causes my pressure plate to not have enough "clamping" pressure when shifting at high rpm resulting in slippage. Buy online to save money. I bought mine from majestichonda.com.

#13 User is offline   kharaal13k 

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Posted 04 March 2009 - 04:56 AM

i replaced my clutch like a month ago. with an act stg 1. it was 500 for the pressure plate and clutch but unfortunately you have to buy the pilot bearing. but you can buy that pretty cheap. all in all i spent 650 for everything... when i called honda, they wanted 1k for oem and 800 for aftermarket...that didn't include install.

#14 User is offline   gabster 

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Posted 04 March 2009 - 11:44 AM

[QUOTE=ksks,Mar 4 2009, 03:18 AM]Yes, AP1 flywheel is much lighter than AP2 flywheel.

This post has been edited by gabster: 04 March 2009 - 01:28 PM


#15 User is offline   s2k aok 

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Posted 04 March 2009 - 05:11 PM

i contacted my local honda and the labor quote was $738. i can afford to have the car on jackstands in the garage for a while for that price, turtle slow by me will be much better than getting anal with honda...
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#16 User is offline   jeffbrig 

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Posted 05 March 2009 - 09:54 AM

Quote

Should i go OEM OR ACT stage 1 clutch PP?

When mine goes, I'll be moving to the ACT pressure plate with an OEM friction disk. I've always found the OEM PP to be a bit weak on my 2002.
Jeff

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#17 User is offline   p-hizzle 

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Posted 05 March 2009 - 05:19 PM

Consider a competition clutch stage 2 - will last you much longer. Don't go too light on the flywheel, otherwise, it can chatter - the last thing you want in stop and go traffic. I've got a stage 4 in my 2004 and will be changing to ap1 flywheel and CC stage 2. It uses the same pressure plate as the stage 4 luckily.

#18 User is offline   gabster 

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Posted 06 March 2009 - 03:11 PM

Quote

Consider a competition clutch stage 2 - will last you much longer. Don't go too light on the flywheel, otherwise, it can chatter - the last thing you want in stop and go traffic. I've got a stage 4 in my 2004 and will be changing to ap1 flywheel and CC stage 2. It uses the same pressure plate as the stage 4 luckily.

Yes i'm aware of the Light Flywheels not being the best choice.
The lightest i will go with is an OEM AP1 FW

and i'm leaning more towards the OEM Disk and ACT PP and OEM AP1 FW
any body here with this setup?
my car is just about 99.5% stock and is a 99.99% street driven( hard driven often though)


Also would the AP1 FW bolt straght in an AP2? no mods nessesary? as well as Disk and PP? are AP1 disk and PP the exact same as AP2s? just wanted to double check this.

thanks alot :hello:

#19 User is offline   cdelena 

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Posted 06 March 2009 - 04:05 PM

I have an eight pound Toda FW, stage2 PP, and OEM FD and have never had any problem with chatter or problems with stop and go driving (most of my miles). All the AP1 and AP2 parts are interchangable.

#20 User is offline   gabster 

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Posted 09 October 2009 - 02:07 PM

Are AP1 and AP2 Friction Disks the same?
never mind i found the answer yes they are.

This post has been edited by gabster: 09 October 2009 - 02:09 PM


#21 User is offline   heathas2k 

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Posted 09 October 2009 - 02:23 PM

Quote

Consider a competition clutch stage 2 - will last you much longer. Don't go too light on the flywheel, otherwise, it can chatter - the last thing you want in stop and go traffic. I've got a stage 4 in my 2004 and will be changing to ap1 flywheel and CC stage 2. It uses the same pressure plate as the stage 4 luckily.

I had the comp stage 2 clutch in... the crapper lasted about a yr, and just over 10k. I took it the track twice, and didn't even beat on it. break in period was adhered to as well.

I baby my car... competition DENIED warranty on it. They said it just looked like excessive wear. IMHO competition is complete crap. I ended up going back to OEM.
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#22 User is offline   midnightmethane 

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Posted 09 October 2009 - 04:25 PM

I had my clutch replaced (all OEM) and bought the parts myself from Majectic Honda ($600 and change including shipping)...and labor for me was $640

I've called a Honda stealership near me and they quoted me 8 hours which is what most people have said on the this forum

but if you're planning on doing just an OEM replacement I've found that the cheapest place is Majestic Honda
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#23 User is offline   zo0mmike 

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Posted 07 August 2010 - 05:42 PM

Back from the dead again.

But, I'm getting ready to order parts for an oem clutch replacement. Are any other parts needed other than the bolts, friction/pressure plates, pilot bearing, and release bearing? What about the other miscellaneous bearings and parts of the clutch release? Just want to make sure I'm not missing any parts.

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