Is Dynamat worth the $$$ or? is there a good alt?
#22
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from what I hear a product called "dedskin" or something to that effect is a pretty good alternative to dynamat, I think a sheet to cover my trunk was somewhere around 60 or 70 bucks (it would have been enough for the trunk lid, and still have a bit left over to cut into small peices for the convertable tray)
#23
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Originally Posted by marks2002,Jun 10 2005, 09:08 AM
I use RAAMmat in the manufacture of S-Pods. www.streetsmarttechnologies.net
Made of the same stuff as Dmat for a lot less money. The seller is nice to work with too. http://www.raamaudio.com/
Made of the same stuff as Dmat for a lot less money. The seller is nice to work with too. http://www.raamaudio.com/
I just want to do my doors and a whole roll (fifty feet...!) seems like much more than I need.
#24
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How does dynamat work? According to their website:
Q: How does Dynamat stop road noise?
A: As a car operates, it generates noise. This noise is caused by the transference of energy (vibration) from the internal components and from the road to the chassis of the vehicle. The chassis (doors, floors, roof etc.) transforms this vibration into audible noise. Dynamat transforms the energy (vibration) into silent energy.
I'm not a physics guy, but "silent energy" is pretty hokey. Do they mean light? Light is silent and is a form of energy. No, of course they mean heat. The vibration and sound energy are converted into (miniscule) amounts of heat by forcing the energy to try to move sheet metal whose mass has just been supplemented by the addition of some damping material. Think about it, it now takes more energy to make that same piece of sheet metal vibrate or resonate, due to the additional mass of the dynamat. So the trick to effective damping is not in the name or the marketing, it's simply adding mass to the target sheet metal. There are other considerations, as mentioned in this thread, such as odor, cost, ease of application, etc., but the goal in damping noise, sound, vibration, etc. is to add mass.
This does the trick and is much much cheaper than Dynamat:
http://www.polyguardproducts.com/products/...eel-n-stick.pdf
available at your local roofing supply house. It is bitumen based (asphaltic) so it may smell slightly like fresh pavement for a few days after install...
I don't post much in Electronics, but I think Willie Gee can vouch for my electronics experience
Q: How does Dynamat stop road noise?
A: As a car operates, it generates noise. This noise is caused by the transference of energy (vibration) from the internal components and from the road to the chassis of the vehicle. The chassis (doors, floors, roof etc.) transforms this vibration into audible noise. Dynamat transforms the energy (vibration) into silent energy.
I'm not a physics guy, but "silent energy" is pretty hokey. Do they mean light? Light is silent and is a form of energy. No, of course they mean heat. The vibration and sound energy are converted into (miniscule) amounts of heat by forcing the energy to try to move sheet metal whose mass has just been supplemented by the addition of some damping material. Think about it, it now takes more energy to make that same piece of sheet metal vibrate or resonate, due to the additional mass of the dynamat. So the trick to effective damping is not in the name or the marketing, it's simply adding mass to the target sheet metal. There are other considerations, as mentioned in this thread, such as odor, cost, ease of application, etc., but the goal in damping noise, sound, vibration, etc. is to add mass.
This does the trick and is much much cheaper than Dynamat:
http://www.polyguardproducts.com/products/...eel-n-stick.pdf
available at your local roofing supply house. It is bitumen based (asphaltic) so it may smell slightly like fresh pavement for a few days after install...
I don't post much in Electronics, but I think Willie Gee can vouch for my electronics experience
#25
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Have any of you RAAMmat buyers ever ordered a half-roll or otherwise partial roll.
I just want to do my doors and a whole roll (fifty feet...!) seems like much more than I need.
I just want to do my doors and a whole roll (fifty feet...!) seems like much more than I need.
Otherwise, Rolling Audio in Sacramento usually has some on hand. 916-565-0100
#26
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[QUOTE=Chiung,Jun 16 2005, 10:13 PM] The vibration and sound energy are converted into (miniscule) amounts of heat by forcing the energy to try to move sheet metal whose mass has just been supplemented by the addition of some damping material.
#28
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I'm working in the trunk right now. Will deal with the passenger cabin as time permits.
My objective, looking ahead to installing one or two subs, is just to dampen vibration. Reduction of outside noise, if I gain any, would be an added benefit but I'm not counting on it.
After removing all the trunk trim, the first thing I noticed was that Honda caulked some of the trunk panel joints but not others. Since I happen to have some automotive caulk, I ran a bead wherever I saw an untreated joint that I could reach.
I then made templates of all the metal surfaces I could reach. I'm taping the templates onto this stuff as we speak:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=268-035
I'll cut the shapes out with a razor knife and apply them to their respective places with a heat gun similar to this one:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=360-390
After the vinyl is bedded in, there will still be crevices that neither caulk nor vinyl could reach. In those areas I plan to spray a latex based sealing foam, specifically this product:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.j...oductId=1422873
Disclaimer: I'm not recommending these techniques or materials to anyone. I'm just reporting my own plan. Would not want the blind to be leading the blind.
My objective, looking ahead to installing one or two subs, is just to dampen vibration. Reduction of outside noise, if I gain any, would be an added benefit but I'm not counting on it.
After removing all the trunk trim, the first thing I noticed was that Honda caulked some of the trunk panel joints but not others. Since I happen to have some automotive caulk, I ran a bead wherever I saw an untreated joint that I could reach.
I then made templates of all the metal surfaces I could reach. I'm taping the templates onto this stuff as we speak:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=268-035
I'll cut the shapes out with a razor knife and apply them to their respective places with a heat gun similar to this one:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=360-390
After the vinyl is bedded in, there will still be crevices that neither caulk nor vinyl could reach. In those areas I plan to spray a latex based sealing foam, specifically this product:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.j...oductId=1422873
Disclaimer: I'm not recommending these techniques or materials to anyone. I'm just reporting my own plan. Would not want the blind to be leading the blind.
#30
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Originally Posted by PdC,Jul 3 2005, 07:25 AM
I had no vibration issues; I installed the dynamat in the lid to sound less like a ricer boy at stop lights and have been pretty satisfied with its effectivness. It made a significant difference. Def worth the $ to me.
With the extra weight of the damping material on the trunk lid, are there any issues with the lid staying open?
Thanks again.