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DIY: Spring and Shock Installation Eibach springs and Koni Yellows

#1 User is offline   rhood 

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Posted 06 July 2005 - 12:59 AM

Last weekend I installed new Eibach springs and Koni yellows. It was a last minute decision to tackle this project without a helms manual. But I thought I would attempt it anyways and document it as much as possible to help those like me who tend to dive into projects. Plus, I also surrounded myself with two friends who have had experience with suspensions on several other cars.
The project took a full day, adding a few breaks for beer and pizza. We went about it very slow and methodically, not wanting to cut too many corners.

If I missed anything, let me know and I will append this.

IF YOU CAN'T SEE THE PICTS, CLICK ON THE BLACK BAR, TWICE!!


Koni's out of the box. (stole this picture from another member)



Eibachs (note: the numbers for the front and rears)



Jack up the front end and remove the wheels. Unattach the brake line bracket



Now unscrew the bolt tot he lower bracket of the shock. (note: the torque specs are listed for when you put on the new shock)



Take off the "A" arm bolts. It should swing forward, just let it rest gently. (note: the torque specs are listed for when you put on the new shock)



unscrew the top two nuts (note: the torque specs are listed for when you put on the new shock)






Not sure if this was a necessary step, however better safe than sorry.













I did NOT cut the bumpstops



dremmeling out 8 rose bushings and 4 dust covers, was one of the most time consuming part of this projects. If we only had a proper drill bit.





Reassemble the shock and put it back the way you took the old one out. don't forget to torque everything down



Time for the rears. Before you jack up the rear, remove the spare and pull back the carpet to expose the top shocks.





I highly reccommend detaching the fuel line. It only take a few minutes and will save you hours.

[COLOR=red][B]
AEM V2 CAI, Fujitsubo Legalis R, RM Racing FSB, Cusco Lower Arm Brace, Eibach Springs, Koni Yellows, RIO EMPEG MP3 PLAYER, Infinity Kappas

#2 User is offline   rhood 

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Posted 06 July 2005 - 01:00 AM

Save gas, it's expensive



Pop off the rears









Voila! My car is now 1" lower and I love it. It rides nice. I'm still getting use to how far I can push it. I have the Koni set at about halfway between full-firm and full-soft.


Some useful links:

Coilover install: http://www.s2ki.com/...opic=66520&st=0

second perch on koni information: http://www.s2ki.com/...opic=152163&hl=

adjustment tool for the driver side rear: http://www.s2ki.com/...opic=144311&hl=[B]

#3 User is offline   xviper 

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Posted 06 July 2005 - 01:38 AM

This is detailed enough to go into "Technical". Moving. Also, this will be added to the "FAQs". :thumbup:

#4 User is offline   Slows2k 

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Posted 06 July 2005 - 07:10 AM

Nicely done :thumbup:
Whoretech'd twice ;)

R.I.P. JS.


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#5 User is offline   SolReborn 

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Posted 06 July 2005 - 10:22 AM

Nicely done indeed! How did you remove the fuel line?
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#6 User is offline   nVz2000 

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Posted 06 July 2005 - 12:03 PM

nicely done!
2002 Honda S2000 Sebring Silver/Black
1999 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD Highlander/Sport Edition Black/Oak
1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 Montego Blue/Black
2007 Subaru Impreza WRX Satin White/Black

#7 User is offline   rhood 

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Posted 06 July 2005 - 12:10 PM

Quote

Nicely done indeed! How did you remove the fuel line?

I didn't remove the fuel line. I just unbracketed it and push it aside. It gives you the extra inch or so to reach the nuts on top of the shock.

-ryan

#8 User is offline   SolReborn 

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 08:10 AM

that is ingenious!! i wish i woulda known before doing mine... my install had A LOT of profanity... heheh

#9 User is offline   SolReborn 

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 08:11 AM

how come you did NOT cut the bumpstops?

#10 User is offline   Bass 

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 08:28 AM

looks great BUT when we did Cub's car we did not remove the gas tank feeder line

#11 User is offline   rhood 

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 12:29 PM

Quote

how come you did NOT cut the bumpstops?

Sometimes when you do a search, it's hard to get a straight answer. And before installing, I searched the forum endlessly about installing shocks and springs. Some guys said to cut to the bumpstops, other claimed there is no need too. It most likely depends on what shocks and springs you are installing, but I just wanted to make it clear that I did not cut the bumpstops using this shock and spring set up.








#12 User is offline   Kel 

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 08:40 PM

[QUOTE=rhood,Jul 5 2005, 10:59 PM]Not sure if this was a necessary step, however better safe than sorry.
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#13 User is offline   doorman 

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Posted 15 July 2005 - 02:37 PM

Where did the pics go?
Always outnumbered. Never outgunned.
If I show up at your door, chances are you did something to bring me there.
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#14 User is offline   rhood 

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Posted 15 July 2005 - 04:21 PM

Quote

Where did the pics go?

I don't know. I'll ask the Mod. Maybe something happened when the site was down?

#15 User is offline   rhood 

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Posted 15 July 2005 - 07:17 PM

in the meantime, click on the black bar (or red X) twice. The picture should show up.

-ryan

#16 User is offline   FF2Skip 

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Posted 17 July 2005 - 12:59 PM

An easier way to remove/install the rears is to use your scissor jack between the top of the tire and the upper fenderwell versus trying to pry the suspension down or standing on the rotor. It will not damage the body. Just do not try this on the fronts. :nono: :D Besides, I usually have no one to help. :(

Additionally, you can pull the gas filler neck completely out with the removal of one more 10 or 12mm bolt and then tie it out of the way with speaker wire to the trunk spring. This allows even mo' room.

Great write-up and picture taking. I started to do a very detailed write-up last year, but it became too tedious. I applaud your efforts to help the community. :thumbup:
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#17 User is offline   jonam 

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Posted 30 August 2005 - 09:05 PM

some more additional tips..
I put back the OEM shocks in...which are longer than aftermarket ones.

For the fronts: disconnecting lower link of the sway makes the job so easy...when you re-connect the sway bar link. use a jack to level the holes of sway links.
Posted Image
Posted Image

For the rear: it was really PITA...as suggested I used OEM jack to push the suspension down...put a wet cotton glove(or something) b/w the jack and wheel well to prevent slipping of the jack. Once the suspension is lowered, I used to pryers to match the holes..one side took long long time..but for the other side, it was a piece of cake..
oh, and the top two nuts on the driver's side rear shock, I used some electric tape which can hold the nuts until it bolted down...worked really good... using this method you don't even need to disconnect rear strut bar(?).
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

2003 S2000 Berlina Black
2002 M3 track prepped.

#18 User is offline   rhood 

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Posted 31 August 2005 - 11:33 AM

Sweet! Thanx Jonam for the addition. If anyone has any other cool tips/trick please add to the post, but I recommend adding detailed, labeled pictures to explain your tips.



#19 User is offline   Slows2k 

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Posted 12 March 2006 - 09:14 PM

An issue has been brought up about preloading the suspension before tightening the suspension bolts when repacing the shocks/springs. See this thread for more detail as well: http://www.s2ki.com/...howtopic=259346

"Front suspension:
Flange nuts that attach shock asembly to car (upper most nuts that stick into engine bay) - 49Nm/ 36lbf-ft
Damper bottom where bottom of shock bolts to lower a-arm: 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts: 103Nm / 75.9lbf-ft

Rear suspension:

Flange bolt at bottom of damper (the bolt that goes through the bottom of the upside down 'U'): 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts (if you touched them): 132Nm / 97.6lbf-ft

From the service manuall: First install all the suspension components and lightly tighten bolts and a nut, then place jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load the weight before fully tightening to the specified torque specs."

Without preloading the suspension before torquing the A arm bushings, you can run into problems such as binding suspension bushings, premature wear of the bushings and altered handling and ride heights.

#20 User is offline   gpw04 

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Posted 23 July 2006 - 05:55 PM

just installed a set of bilstein coil-overs. couldn't have done it without your ingenious tips. thanks.
in slow. . . out slower

bilstein pss9, ate super blue, hawk ht10, stoptech ss brake lines, volk re30, kumho v710, sabelt 6pt, recaro profi, taitec seat rail, 4pt roll bar by romar racing, TCD oil pan

#21 User is offline   gabster 

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 04:46 PM

Quote

some more additional tips..
I put back the OEM shocks in...which are longer than aftermarket ones.

For the fronts: disconnecting lower link of the sway makes the job so easy...when you re-connect the sway bar link. use a jack to level the holes of sway links.
Posted Image
Posted Image

For the rear: it was really PITA...as suggested I used OEM jack to push the suspension down...put a wet cotton glove(or something) b/w the jack and wheel well to prevent slipping of the jack. Once the suspension is lowered, I used to pryers to match the holes..one side took long long time..but for the other side, it was a piece of cake..
oh, and the top two nuts on the driver's side rear shock, I used some electric tape which can hold the nuts until it bolted down...worked really good... using this method you don't even need to disconnect rear strut bar(?).
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

Can you please re post these pictures??? :( im planning on doing this, this weekend
thanks so much
looking form OEM BLUE Floor mats

#22 User is offline   03supers2k 

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Posted 01 June 2007 - 08:42 PM

how do you set the perch to the lower perch pull out the ring or am i missing something

03supers2k Build thread 495whp 375trq 18.4psi
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#23 User is offline   rhood 

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Posted 03 June 2007 - 08:28 PM

It's been quite awhile since I did this, but if I remember correctly, you put the ring on the lower perch.



#24 User is offline   03supers2k 

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Posted 04 June 2007 - 02:39 AM

yea i figured it out today

#25 User is offline   05Silverbeast 

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Posted 12 August 2007 - 04:34 PM

I have a quick question.. what happends if u dont put the bump stop under the thick weld?? i know i have one right in the middle of it .. will that matter at all ? i dont see how it could..
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2005 S2000 AP2

VIS CF Mugen Hardtop - T1R 70RT Single Titanium - Apexi Neo Tune - 4.77 Final Drive - Koni Yellow Adj. Shocks - Elipser springs - Powder Coated Ap2 V1 Wheels - PLM Header - K&N FIPK Intake - Valentine 1 Hardwired - 20% Tint - AP2 V1 Lip - Black CR S2000 badge/ Black Honda Badges - Smoked side markers - 15mm Spacer on front and 20mm spacers on rear -

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