S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

DIY: Spring and Shock Installation

Old 01-11-2007, 12:46 PM
  #21  
Registered User

 
inactiveuser1114's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jonam,Aug 30 2005, 09:05 PM
some more additional tips..
I put back the OEM shocks in...which are longer than aftermarket ones.

For the fronts: disconnecting lower link of the sway makes the job so easy...when you re-connect the sway bar link. use a jack to level the holes of sway links.



For the rear: it was really PITA...as suggested I used OEM jack to push the suspension down...put a wet cotton glove(or something) b/w the jack and wheel well to prevent slipping of the jack. Once the suspension is lowered, I used to pryers to match the holes..one side took long long time..but for the other side, it was a piece of cake..
oh, and the top two nuts on the driver's side rear shock, I used some electric tape which can hold the nuts until it bolted down...worked really good... using this method you don't even need to disconnect rear strut bar(?).


Can you please re post these pictures??? im planning on doing this, this weekend
thanks so much
Old 06-01-2007, 05:42 PM
  #22  

 
03supers2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: chino hills
Posts: 5,997
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

how do you set the perch to the lower perch pull out the ring or am i missing something
Old 06-03-2007, 05:28 PM
  #23  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
rhood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

It's been quite awhile since I did this, but if I remember correctly, you put the ring on the lower perch.
Old 06-03-2007, 11:39 PM
  #24  

 
03supers2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: chino hills
Posts: 5,997
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

yea i figured it out today
Old 08-12-2007, 01:34 PM
  #25  
Registered User
 
05Silverbeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have a quick question.. what happends if u dont put the bump stop under the thick weld?? i know i have one right in the middle of it .. will that matter at all ? i dont see how it could..
Old 10-06-2007, 02:11 PM
  #26  
Registered User

 
vtec9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 10,106
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

I followed this writeup today to put new springs on my OEM shocks. Very simple procedure. I started on the front, and the first one took some time as I was pausing to think, looking for the right sockets, trying to remember torque specs, etc, etc. After that, it went very quickly.. about 20-30 minutes per corner. I didn't have much difficulty lining anything up. I didn't need to remove any sway bar links, and I didn't need to use a jack. A rubber hammer is useful to bang the upper A-arms in and to line them up with the mounting brackets. I would never have been able to do it by hand.
Old 10-07-2007, 06:31 AM
  #27  
Registered User

 
FF2Skip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lewisville, TX
Posts: 48,203
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by vtec9,Oct 6 2007, 06:11 PM
... and I didn't need to use a jack.
To preload the suspension, yes, you do.
Old 10-08-2007, 05:06 AM
  #28  
Registered User

 
vtec9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 10,106
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by FF2Skip,Oct 7 2007, 10:31 AM
To preload the suspension, yes, you do.
Yea, and I also needed one to get the car up on jack stands oddly enough. I meant that I didn't need to use a jack to help line up the shock and the A-arm, as mentioned in a few of the DIY write ups.
I didn't have much difficulty lining anything up. I didn't need to remove any sway bar links, and I didn't need to use a jack.
I felt it was pretty clear.

One suggestion I will make for everyone: buy a 14mm deep socket to use on the upper mounts so you can clear the threaded studs. You can get away with a standard shallow socket on three corners, but for the rear drivers side, it will save you a lot of time.
Old 10-15-2007, 10:41 AM
  #29  
Registered User

 
S2Koupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gurenderu
Posts: 2,649
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

instead of standing on the suspension, i use the "HUNTEREZ" method. stick a long pole in the suspension to leverage it down and SIT on it... lol. it works. puts you in perfect position to feed the bolt and wrench it on too. just dont have TOO much fun...





and because i think its worth repeating:

1. preload the suspension and retorque EVERY bushing at the new ride height. its even in the HELMS manual.

2. get an alignment immediately afterwards. the camber AND the toe changes in respect to changes in ride height. and toe must be corrected in order to prevent uneven tire wear. thats right, its not the camber, its the toe that wears tires.
Old 10-15-2007, 10:58 AM
  #30  
Registered User

 
vtec9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 10,106
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by S2Koupe,Oct 15 2007, 02:41 PM
instead of standing on the suspension, i use the "HUNTEREZ" method. stick a long pole in the suspension to leverage it down and SIT on it... lol. it works. puts you in perfect position to feed the bolt and wrench it on too. just dont have TOO much fun...
I used a variant of this. I didn't see this listed anywhere, but I used a large pry bar, similar to a screwdriver, but with the head at a 25

Quick Reply: DIY: Spring and Shock Installation



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:08 AM.