rhood

Sometimes when you do a search, it's hard to get a straight answer. And before installing, I searched the forum endlessly about installing shocks and springs. Some guys said to cut to the bumpstops, other claimed there is no need too. It most likely depends on what shocks and springs you are installing, but I just wanted to make it clear that I did not cut the bumpstops using this shock and spring set up.

Kel

[QUOTE=rhood,Jul 5 2005, 10:59 PM]Not sure if this was a necessary step, however better safe than sorry.

doorman

Where did the pics go?

rhood

I don't know. I'll ask the Mod. Maybe something happened when the site was down?

rhood

in the meantime, click on the black bar (or red X) twice. The picture should show up.

-ryan

FF2Skip

An easier way to remove/install the rears is to use your scissor jack between the top of the tire and the upper fenderwell versus trying to pry the suspension down or standing on the rotor. It will not damage the body. Just do not try this on the fronts. Besides, I usually have no one to help.

Additionally, you can pull the gas filler neck completely out with the removal of one more 10 or 12mm bolt and then tie it out of the way with speaker wire to the trunk spring. This allows even mo' room.

Great write-up and picture taking. I started to do a very detailed write-up last year, but it became too tedious. I applaud your efforts to help the community.

jonam

some more additional tips..
I put back the OEM shocks in...which are longer than aftermarket ones.

For the fronts: disconnecting lower link of the sway makes the job so easy...when you re-connect the sway bar link. use a jack to level the holes of sway links.



For the rear: it was really PITA...as suggested I used OEM jack to push the suspension down...put a wet cotton glove(or something) b/w the jack and wheel well to prevent slipping of the jack. Once the suspension is lowered, I used to pryers to match the holes..one side took long long time..but for the other side, it was a piece of cake..
oh, and the top two nuts on the driver's side rear shock, I used some electric tape which can hold the nuts until it bolted down...worked really good... using this method you don't even need to disconnect rear strut bar(?).

rhood

Sweet! Thanx Jonam for the addition. If anyone has any other cool tips/trick please add to the post, but I recommend adding detailed, labeled pictures to explain your tips.

Slows2k

An issue has been brought up about preloading the suspension before tightening the suspension bolts when repacing the shocks/springs. See this thread for more detail as well: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=259346

"Front suspension:
Flange nuts that attach shock asembly to car (upper most nuts that stick into engine bay) - 49Nm/ 36lbf-ft
Damper bottom where bottom of shock bolts to lower a-arm: 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts: 103Nm / 75.9lbf-ft

Rear suspension:

Flange bolt at bottom of damper (the bolt that goes through the bottom of the upside down 'U'): 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts (if you touched them): 132Nm / 97.6lbf-ft

From the service manuall: First install all the suspension components and lightly tighten bolts and a nut, then place jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load the weight before fully tightening to the specified torque specs."

Without preloading the suspension before torquing the A arm bushings, you can run into problems such as binding suspension bushings, premature wear of the bushings and altered handling and ride heights.

gpw04

just installed a set of bilstein coil-overs. couldn't have done it without your ingenious tips. thanks.