DIY: Spring and Shock Installation
#11
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Originally Posted by SolReborn,Jul 12 2005, 05:11 AM
how come you did NOT cut the bumpstops?
#14
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Originally Posted by doorman,Jul 15 2005, 11:37 AM
Where did the pics go?
#16
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An easier way to remove/install the rears is to use your scissor jack between the top of the tire and the upper fenderwell versus trying to pry the suspension down or standing on the rotor. It will not damage the body. Just do not try this on the fronts. Besides, I usually have no one to help.
Additionally, you can pull the gas filler neck completely out with the removal of one more 10 or 12mm bolt and then tie it out of the way with speaker wire to the trunk spring. This allows even mo' room.
Great write-up and picture taking. I started to do a very detailed write-up last year, but it became too tedious. I applaud your efforts to help the community.
Additionally, you can pull the gas filler neck completely out with the removal of one more 10 or 12mm bolt and then tie it out of the way with speaker wire to the trunk spring. This allows even mo' room.
Great write-up and picture taking. I started to do a very detailed write-up last year, but it became too tedious. I applaud your efforts to help the community.
#17
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some more additional tips..
I put back the OEM shocks in...which are longer than aftermarket ones.
For the fronts: disconnecting lower link of the sway makes the job so easy...when you re-connect the sway bar link. use a jack to level the holes of sway links.
For the rear: it was really PITA...as suggested I used OEM jack to push the suspension down...put a wet cotton glove(or something) b/w the jack and wheel well to prevent slipping of the jack. Once the suspension is lowered, I used to pryers to match the holes..one side took long long time..but for the other side, it was a piece of cake..
oh, and the top two nuts on the driver's side rear shock, I used some electric tape which can hold the nuts until it bolted down...worked really good... using this method you don't even need to disconnect rear strut bar(?).
I put back the OEM shocks in...which are longer than aftermarket ones.
For the fronts: disconnecting lower link of the sway makes the job so easy...when you re-connect the sway bar link. use a jack to level the holes of sway links.
For the rear: it was really PITA...as suggested I used OEM jack to push the suspension down...put a wet cotton glove(or something) b/w the jack and wheel well to prevent slipping of the jack. Once the suspension is lowered, I used to pryers to match the holes..one side took long long time..but for the other side, it was a piece of cake..
oh, and the top two nuts on the driver's side rear shock, I used some electric tape which can hold the nuts until it bolted down...worked really good... using this method you don't even need to disconnect rear strut bar(?).
#18
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Sweet! Thanx Jonam for the addition. If anyone has any other cool tips/trick please add to the post, but I recommend adding detailed, labeled pictures to explain your tips.
#19
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An issue has been brought up about preloading the suspension before tightening the suspension bolts when repacing the shocks/springs. See this thread for more detail as well: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=259346
"Front suspension:
Flange nuts that attach shock asembly to car (upper most nuts that stick into engine bay) - 49Nm/ 36lbf-ft
Damper bottom where bottom of shock bolts to lower a-arm: 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts: 103Nm / 75.9lbf-ft
Rear suspension:
Flange bolt at bottom of damper (the bolt that goes through the bottom of the upside down 'U'): 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts (if you touched them): 132Nm / 97.6lbf-ft
From the service manuall: First install all the suspension components and lightly tighten bolts and a nut, then place jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load the weight before fully tightening to the specified torque specs."
Without preloading the suspension before torquing the A arm bushings, you can run into problems such as binding suspension bushings, premature wear of the bushings and altered handling and ride heights.
"Front suspension:
Flange nuts that attach shock asembly to car (upper most nuts that stick into engine bay) - 49Nm/ 36lbf-ft
Damper bottom where bottom of shock bolts to lower a-arm: 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts: 103Nm / 75.9lbf-ft
Rear suspension:
Flange bolt at bottom of damper (the bolt that goes through the bottom of the upside down 'U'): 64Nm / 47lbf-ft
Upper arm bolts (if you touched them): 132Nm / 97.6lbf-ft
From the service manuall: First install all the suspension components and lightly tighten bolts and a nut, then place jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load the weight before fully tightening to the specified torque specs."
Without preloading the suspension before torquing the A arm bushings, you can run into problems such as binding suspension bushings, premature wear of the bushings and altered handling and ride heights.