How to use remote while key is in ignition
#1
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How to use remote while key is in ignition
Ok, I'm sure everyone wishes they still had functionality of their key fobs while the key is in the ignition. I've read lots of complaints about having to reach over or needing to get in the trunk while the console was locked and the car was on. Anyway, not sure if this is a repost, but I solved the problem by removing a few wires. I'll have to give Modifry some credit here b/c it's his electrical manual that helped me out. Anyway, if you get upside down and look up into your dash on the far left of the drivers side, you will see the keyless entry harness which is grey and white. It's about 4 or 5 inches above the bottom part of the dash kinda below the start button workings.
Anyway, there are two wires that let the keyless entry know when to stop working. One is from the ignition telling it that the car is on and the other is from the ignition key switch telling it that the key is in the ignition. Remove these two and you're in business. The ignition wire is yellow while the ignition switch wire is red and white. They are #'s 16 and 13 respectively in the diagram below:
I've figured out a clean way to remove the whole wire with the terminal without cutting, but it's kinda hard to explain so I won't bother. Of course, you can always cut these wires and it will work just fine as well. Just make sure you insulate the cut real well.
BTW, I take no responsability for anybody blowing up there car or voiding their warranty. Do this at your own descretion. Oh, and don't push the trunk open key while you're moving
Anyway, there are two wires that let the keyless entry know when to stop working. One is from the ignition telling it that the car is on and the other is from the ignition key switch telling it that the key is in the ignition. Remove these two and you're in business. The ignition wire is yellow while the ignition switch wire is red and white. They are #'s 16 and 13 respectively in the diagram below:
I've figured out a clean way to remove the whole wire with the terminal without cutting, but it's kinda hard to explain so I won't bother. Of course, you can always cut these wires and it will work just fine as well. Just make sure you insulate the cut real well.
BTW, I take no responsability for anybody blowing up there car or voiding their warranty. Do this at your own descretion. Oh, and don't push the trunk open key while you're moving
#2
Why not push the trunk open key while moving? Anyone see this as a problem? I would think that all it would do is unlatch the trunk. It may rise a bit when stopped but if in motion, it will probably stay mostly down. Am I missing something?
#4
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Originally Posted by SheDrivesIt,Aug 16 2005, 12:56 PM
Why not push the trunk open key while moving? Anyone see this as a problem? I would think that all it would do is unlatch the trunk. It may rise a bit when stopped but if in motion, it will probably stay mostly down. Am I missing something?
#5
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Originally Posted by SheDrivesIt,Aug 16 2005, 12:57 PM
Oh, yeah. Thanks Cyclon. This is very useable information. Any side effects so far? How long ago did you accomplish this?
#6
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i got rid of my chime for open door with key in ignition. all my other warning apply(lights on with door open). i did a write up and it was so long ago i don't remember exact details...but i had to remove the cover for the steering wheel, top and bottom, remove a couple of wires(unplug) and now i can use the fob to open the trunk or unlock the doors while it is in the ignition and there is no longer a chime.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Cyclon36,Aug 16 2005, 09:49 AM
Oh, and don't push the trunk open key while you're moving
Now, disengaging the air brake is quite a different story.
But in all seriousness, I've had my S for less than a week and this will be my first mod, so thanks for the post!