[Wisconsin S2k]

This post has been modified slightly to accommodate the recent increase of New Threads regarding Oils, Fluids, etc. Hopefully this can be read within 10mins (for most) to answer general questions quickly- and the "in depth" Oil Journals can be used for further research and comparisons.

NVMY4N
9-28-2007

---------------------------------------------------------





There have been a lot of threads lately asking what kind of fluids people should use for their cars. This thread is intended to be added to the oil journals, and help prevent repetitive threads.

First, if you have questions about fluids , and you have not read the oil journals, YOU MUST DO SO HERE!!!: <- The Oil Journals!

There is a WEALTH of information on diff, tranny, and engine oils, filters, comparisons, there - You just have to take the time to read it.


A quick synopsis of my take on oils from what I've read:



Engine Oil: 10w-30 - 5.75 quarts per Billman250

Quote

5w40 is also a recommended weight for our cars, and in high heat what i plan to use - 10w40 is fine. But why not run Red Line 5w40 or Delvac1 5w40???

I use havoline GF4, as recommended by road rage. So far I haven't had any problems with this oil, even in extreme cold weather. This is a conventional oil, and I change it about every 5000 miles.

The biggest advantage of using synthetics is extending your OCI (oil change interval). if you are using a synthetic, and changing your oil every 3000-5000 miles, that's a waste, and not necessary. I had a UOA done of valvoline synpower synthetic done at just short of 10,000 miles, and the report said I had oil life left and that it was properly protecting the car. So on synthetic I was changing the oil every 10,000 miles. I don't track my car often (i do run both 1/4 mile and actual road course occasionally), but I do drive my car fairly hard.


Oil Filter: OEM PCX-004


How to check engine oil:
"Oil checking questions...":
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...light=oil+level


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Diff Oil: Straight SAE 90 Weight
I use Mobil 1 75w-90 personally. I know many like LE 607, but there are 2 key things to keep in mind. LE 607 does not have the "official" API GL5 certification, so if you use this, and you suffer a diff failure, don't let honda know you used this fluid as they can easily void your warranty.

Secondly, LE607 is NOT for use in cold weather. No straight 90w diff fluid really is, as they tend to have higher pour points than say a 75w90. NOTE: LE 607 is been replaced by LE1605

Quote

1) LE-607 is GL-5 rated. Honda cannot refuse a warranty claim based on use of this lubricant.
2) LE-607 is not for arctic use, but it has a rated PP (pour point) of -11 degF. That is the lowest PP I have seen for a 90w gear oil.

[QUOTE="Glad to be Gone"]Differential Oil:
IMPORTANT WARNING ABOUT HONDA SUPPLIED DIFF FLUID!
Even after years of this info being out there, some folks are still getting gooned with regards to Honda supplying the WRONG DIFF FLUID!

This post has been edited by NVMY4N: 08 December 2007 - 11:48 PM

[WyattH]

Should I close my other fluid thread? Sorry. Thanks for the info, though!

[Wisconsin S2k]

Quote

Should I close my other fluid thread? Sorry. Thanks for the info, though!

i took care of it. and it wasn't your fault at all so don't sweat it. i just figured this gets talked about enough here that we could try and centralize it to provide more information for everyone. :)

[jasonw]

It would be kind of cool if we had a poll of what people are using for motor/tranny/diff... ...not that I'm swayed by polls... :hidebc:

[S2kracka]

Quote

It would be kind of cool if we had a poll of what people are using for motor/tranny/diff... ...not that I'm swayed by polls... :hidebc:

We have about 3 of those thread every week.

[WyattH]

It's Monday. Should I start this week off?
Just kidding. :)

[WyattH]

I tried reading all of the threads, but it seems hard to navigate.

Would I want strait 90, or 75w90 diff fluid? I live in PacNW where climate is moderate and temps range from 40-80 year 'round. Car is garaged.

And with that climate, would I want 0w30 (like Mobile 1 R?) or up to 10w40? I see people using those and everything in between. Thanks!

Let me try to summarize: 5w40 improves oil consumption, but loses HP. 10w30 gives better power, and better mpg on longer drives???? I think 10w30 would be better for my driving and climate. and I'll go with strait 90 Redline MTL tranny fluid, and LE607.

[Hockey]

I use the following:

- Motor Oil - Mobil1 10w30, OEM PCX-004 filter with an approx 7500 mile interval.

- Tranny Fluid - Redline MTL with a 30k mile interval.

- Diff Fluid - Mobil1 75w90 with a 15k mile interval.

- Brake Fluid - ATE Super Blue with a 45k mile interval.

NOTES:

These intervals are taken directly from my MY00 owner's manual according to the "severe conditions" schedule.

Redline MTL has helped to eliminate the notchiness associated with the early model year S2Ks, while giving a longer interval life than GMFMSM (General Motors Friction Modified Synchro Mesh).

After switching to Mobil1 in the diff, the magnetic plug shows little to no slime and the fluid is clear - unlike OEM fluid which is opaque and smelly.

I have used both Halvoline Dot3/4 "ABS" brake fluid and ATE Super Blue at different times. Both do a great job for street applications. I find the ATE is easier to tell when you have a complete flush because of the color change of the fresh fluid (bright blue).

My car currently has 122k miles on the odometer with NO major failures (knock on wood :) ).

-Hockey

[Hockey]

Quote

I tried reading all of the threads, but it seems hard to navigate.

Would I want strait 90, or 75w90 diff fluid? I live in PacNW where climate is moderate and temps range from 40-80 year 'round. Car is garaged.

And with that climate, would I want 0w30 (like Mobile 1 R?) or up to 10w40? I see people using those and everything in between. Thanks!

Let me try to summarize: 5w40 improves oil consumption, but loses HP. 10w30 gives better power, and better mpg on longer drives???? I think 10w30 would be better for my driving and climate. and I'll go with strait 90 Redline MTL tranny fluid, and LE607.

You get a little cold up there. I would recommend Mobil1 75w90 in the diff, and Redline MTL (70w80) in the tranny.

I also say stick with the recommended 10w30 weight for the motor. Unless you are having consumption issues, I don't see the point of varying from the OEM spec.

-Hockey

[jasonw]

Quote

I use the following:

- Motor Oil - Mobil1 10w30, OEM PCX-004 filter with an approx 7500 mile interval.

- Tranny Fluid - Redline MTL with a 30k mile interval.

- Diff Fluid - Mobil1 75w90 with a 15k mile interval.

- Brake Fluid - ATE Super Blue with a 45k mile interval.

NOTES:

These intervals are taken directly from my MY00 owner's manual according to the "severe conditions" schedule.

What made you go with Mobil 1 over Redline for the diff?

And I thought the "severe" intervals were 1/2 of what you quoted... I guess I'll check again but, I've been using much smaller intervals.

[riceburners2001]

hmmmm.....ive never changed the brake fluid in my car... :confused:
ive also seen somewhere that if u r gonna track ur car, u should use certain kind of brake fluid( :confused: :confused: ) what effect does difference in brake fluid have??? thanx. :thumbup:

[Hockey]

Quote

What made you go with Mobil 1 over Redline for the diff?

And I thought the "severe" intervals were 1/2 of what you quoted... I guess I'll check again but, I've been using much smaller intervals.

I've used Redline back in the diff too. Didn't have any complaints about it. The thing I like about M1 is the availability. I can pick up a bottle at any corner Autozone/Kragen/Pep Boys....etc.

AND

I'm sure of the service intervals. Straight outta the book, page 150. :thumbup:

[Hockey]

Quote

hmmmm.....ive never changed the brake fluid in my car... :confused:
ive also seen somewhere that if u r gonna track ur car, u should use certain kind of brake fluid( :confused: :confused: ) what effect does difference in brake fluid have??? thanx. :thumbup:

Brake fluid should be changed at 45k intervals (again "severe schedule" MY00).....or right after a serious track day. Race brake fluid has higher boiling points than OEM, which helps to reduce brake fade as they get hot. Once you boil the brake fluid, it is done.

As I recall, the race fluid is more hydroscopic as well which means it will need to be changed more often. At 45k miles, my ATE looked almost as good as the new fluid I replaced it with.

-Hockey

[WyattH]

Ahhh okay. Thanks!!!
ATE brake fluid is awesome sh*t...

[HOTRODS2000]

Quote

hmmmm.....ive never changed the brake fluid in my car... :confused:
ive also seen somewhere that if u r gonna track ur car, u should use certain kind of brake fluid( :confused: :confused: ) what effect does difference in brake fluid have??? thanx. :thumbup:

The brake and clutch fluid change is in the owners manual and I'm drawing a blank right now so I won't quote anything. I change brake fluid before every track day and use ATE super blue. I have changed a number of peoples fluid that don't track and the standard DOT 3/4 fluid will work just fine. Good luck.

[news2kroller]

Im sort of confused about the diff fluid. I have 4.56 gears and im about to change out the fluid that ramjet put in there for another brand as im almost done with the break in period. i live in so cal so the tem range is usually 55-80 from winter to summer, I always warm up my car before driving it hard or even fast, i have about 5-7 mins of driving under 40mph when leaving my neighborhood, and i think that would be adequate to warm up the diff fluid. Someone mentioned problems with the le607 and that was the fluid i was going to go with but i would like other reccomendations if theres another fluid that suits my needs better than the le607. thanks.
CHRIS

[riceburners2001]

where do i get the ATE brake fluid??? local auto part store should have it?? :confused:
thanx..... :thumbup:

[Hockey]

Quote

where do i get the ATE brake fluid??? local auto part store should have it?? :confused:
thanx..... :thumbup:

Autobacs has it. I called them about it last a couple weeks ago.

Otherwise you can get it from the S2Ki marketplace.

-Hockey

[WyattH]

Most auto parts stores Ive gone to do NOT have it. They do have Valvoline DOT3/4 which works okay, though!

[Wisconsin S2k]

Quote

The brake and clutch fluid change is in the owners manual and I'm drawing a blank right now so I won't quote anything. I change brake fluid before every track day and use ATE super blue. I have changed a number of peoples fluid that don't track and the standard DOT 3/4 fluid will work just fine. Good luck.

the brake and clutch fluid are actually the same thing. it's DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. you can use it for brake and clutch.

[Wisconsin S2k]

Quote

Im sort of confused about the diff fluid. I have 4.56 gears and im about to change out the fluid that ramjet put in there for another brand as im almost done with the break in period. i live in so cal so the tem range is usually 55-80 from winter to summer, I always warm up my car before driving it hard or even fast, i have about 5-7 mins of driving under 40mph when leaving my neighborhood, and i think that would be adequate to warm up the diff fluid. Someone mentioned problems with the le607 and that was the fluid i was going to go with but i would like other reccomendations if theres another fluid that suits my needs better than the le607. thanks.
CHRIS

since it does not get cold where you live, LE607 is fine.

[slimjim43]

I change my oil every 3K miles due too a lot of short distance driving. At 3K my oil is pretty dirty. Any of you guys experience dirty oil at 3K?

[Hockey]

[QUOTE=slimjim43,Feb 8 2006, 03:54 PM] I change my oil every 3K miles due too a lot of short distance driving.

[S2kracka]

Quote

I change my oil every 3K miles due too a lot of short distance driving. At 3K my oil is pretty dirty. Any of you guys experience dirty oil at 3K?

Color is of no indication to the condition of motor oil.

[jimi]

Quote

Dirty according to what criteria.....looking at it, or a used oil analysis (UOA)?

All oil will "look" dirty when it is doing its job. Getting a UOA will break down the contents of your oil and tell you if it is doing its job - and if your change intervals are correct or need to be adjusted.

-Hockey

There's no way I'm leaving any oil, no matter what type/brand in my car for 10K mi. That's just ridiculous. Where does all the dirt from 5.1 qts of oil go Into the oil filter?