iDomN8U

Anyone use Molyslip additives in there tranny or oil?

I have had some advice from an "eccentric" german engineer from WWII who would tell me stories about the chemical and how the british planes would get amazing results from it.

I would love to hear from the oil techs on molybdenum. From the NASA reports i've read on this substance, and now that automotive manufactures are coating there pistons with it, it looks like something we could benefit from.

xviper

These may be of some interest to you:
http://skepdic.com/slick50.html
Particularly this part:
And the last paragraph in the above article.

And this:
http://www.landlinemag.com/Archives/2003/J...nt/maint_qa.htm

You might want to read the second post here:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211-e-cla...oil-change.html

iDomN8U

Curious as to why engineers at Infiniti decided to use it on there engines

http://www.infiniti.com/m/specifications.html

prehaps to eliminate the break-in required in the past.

I wouldnt mix it with sync oil, prehaps dino.

but for the transmission, I wonder what it would do. I put it in my brothers '92 civic si, and it seemed solid (but it took engine oil for tranny fluid)

I know Molyslip (MoS2) makes lubricants for all applications.

PilotKD

When I changed my oil for the first time at 1,000 miles, I refilled with Castrol GTX and a can of "Mr. Moly Break In" until 4,000 miles and then went to Syntec. However, I would not add high concentrations of the stuff afterwards. Most of the better off the shelf oils have moly in them already and more is not always better.

Other than that, I'm not much of a believer in oil additives. Most well made engines will go 200,000+ miles on a good conventional oil alone, when changed at proper intervals. Nevermind using the $5 per quart Mobil 1/Syntec/Valvoline, etc that most of us use. Most of us will sell this car before it gets to the point where the motor needs a rebuild because you used Castrol instead of Mobil or Pep Boys brand over Honda oil. I go to Walmart and buy whatever full synthetic that catches my eye that day and/or is on sale. It usually revolves between Mobil 1, Syntec and Valvoline. All excellent lubes and I'm positive my motor doesn't know poop from shinola between any of them as long as I'm changing them every 4-5k miles.

xviper

Maybe they know better than MB engineers?

OK, let's use a little deductive reasoning here (and I'll let readers decide whether I'm on the right track or not) .....................

Let's consider "Moly" for what it might be and do. Is it a good thing for reducing friction? Or is it a bad thing in that it can promote wear? It's been classified as both depending upon what concentrations you have and what the molecular weight of that particular moly compound is.

So, let's for the moment, say that people go "ga-ga" over moly because it's a friction fighter and wear reducer. I mean, why would anyone knowingly put in something that's going to purposely cause "wear" to your engine? Now, let's take a look at "break-in". What happens during break-in? Rings seat into the cylinder walls (or liners), right? This requires a certain amount of friction to "wear in" the rings. To eliminate break-in, you would need something that would promote friction and wear so that rings can seat quickly. Thus, wouldn't putting in a moly additive be BAD for break-in as it would reduce friction and wear? So, how can you "eliminate" break-in if you add something that is super slippery? Personally, if I were to introduce something that was "ultra-slippery" into my engine, I would do it AFTER the engine was broken in. (Now, I'm NOT professing that I believe moly will do this in the concentrations that any additive product would introduce. I'm just outlining some of the current thought out there on this subject.)

Just a little food for thought.

iDomN8U

Perhaps for break-in purposes its wouldnt be a great application. I'm not suggesting that, just trying to ascertain why.

I have a study done by nasa in a pdf format back in the 70's. it's strength in extreme conditions looks promising.

The technically aspect of the document is beyond me but if you would like to look through it let me know.

SpitfireS

How about ALMASOL in your diff?
Doez zat kount?



Damn.. a Spitfire at 6 o-clock.. get him off by back!!

iDomN8U

I'm thinking about using there MTF additive to see if the same results can be achieved as Gm syncomesh friction mod (since it's not sold in CDN)

I just flushed my tranny and used honda oil, but there was no change in the shift smoothness. I'm thinking about trying adding it on the next change.

xviper

You do not want to put any sulfer compounds into your tranny. It'll eat your syncros. That's why you shouldn't put rear diff fluid into your tranny by mistake. High sulfer in the rear diff is essential.
Moly in circulation in the engine oil in parts per million is questionable (IMO). It's only use is in engine assembly where it gets pasted onto metal parts. That's good for about 2 minutes after the first start of an engine's life.

xviper

I'd like to put up a couple of oil analysis that I did on an experiment with two different kinds of diff fluids on my S2000.
I'm not going to give you any conclusions on the role that moly played in the outcome. I'll just post up what I got and let the "experts" comment on what it might mean.
The first one is Mobil 1 synthetic 75W90:

This next one is Redline Shockproof:

Both fluids were in service for about the same miles under very similar driving conditions. Go to the bottom section where it gives the numbers for oil condition. Of particular intersest to this thread is the MOLY numbers for both. Note that in the Mobil 1 fluid, the moly count was ZERO and that the count for the Redline was 4000.

Now, go up to the top and look at the comments for CONTAMINATION and WEAR. Redline "contamination" indicated ATTENTION was required. Redline "wear" indicated ABNORMAL. The Redline performed BADLY and in my mind, it FAILED. Now take a look at the comments beside each lower section. For Mobil 1, all comments were favourable. For Redline: "Gear wear is indicated" and "The oil is no longer serviceable".

Which one would you rather have in your rear diff? The one with the MOLY or the one without?

We already know that diff fluid is NOT to be used in our trannies. I'm still not so sure we want high moly in circulation in our engines, either. Normal moly in circulation of an average engine oil is about 75 ppm. In analysis of motor oil after an S2000 engine rebuild at a Honda dealer, the moly in circulation turned up as about 130 ppm. This is about the SAME count as in the S2000 FACTORY FILL.
Do I want to have high moly count in my engine oil as I see in my rear diff with a FAILED diff fluid? Personally, NO! Others may have different opinions and are welcome to them.