When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
here is my vac block set up (again) with closer pics. Not running the coolant lines like you but thought I would share.
block 1- Vibrant generic block from summit.
push lock fittings (blue) on top of ITB’s.
Running to:
- FPR
- IACV
- Brake Booster
Block 2- OBX supplied block.
Brass fittings on the bottom of ITB’s.
Running to:
- MAP sensor
- closed loop catch can
- Brake Booster.
I run the brake booster T’ed between the two. The idea was that if I lost vacuum
on one of the blocks I wouldn’t lose brakes on track. The pictures are from
various stages of the build. Let me know if any questions!
That's such a strange set up. What you're doing with the vacuum blocks is basically what the TODA ISCV is for (to put the IACV on it's own line so that you never have vacuum loss for the booster).
Have you thought about plumbing it all that way? Put the IACV on it's own block, and everything else on the lower block like it was designed.
That's such a strange set up. What you're doing with the vacuum blocks is basically what the TODA ISCV is for (to put the IACV on it's own line so that you never have vacuum loss for the booster).
Have you thought about plumbing it all that way? Put the IACV on it's own block, and everything else on the lower block like it was designed.
Basically I put this all together without looking into any other set up. Sort of a challenge for myself and brain during lockdown last year. The car still retains A/C (as it has since been dropped from track only duties due to me building a full H1 Racecar), has had no issues in street driving or on track with this set up so I don’t plan on changing anything to be honest.
Basically I put this all together without looking into any other set up. Sort of a challenge for myself and brain during lockdown last year. The car still retains A/C (as it has since been dropped from track only duties due to me building a full H1 Racecar), has had no issues in street driving or on track with this set up so I don’t plan on changing anything to be honest.
That makes sense. If it works no reason to mess with it. In my mind I feel like plumbing the brake booster into two separate vacuum system opens up more possibility for failure than into one. I can tell you from person experience losing brake booster when you are going to brake is terrifying. That's a large part of why I moved to the Todas so I could run it on a separate system..
You don't now have a problem of not having enough vacuum for the brake booster? If I'm reading what you are saying right, you plumbed the brake booster off of ISCV line. That opens and closes depending on the IAVC.
On my last set up I had everything plumbed into a single block, and ended up running into issues if I would shift into neutral when coming up to a stop light and losing brake booster because the IACV opened up.
Edit: Where are you located and who tuned your car? What EMS are you on?
Hi Feezy,
Sorry for the late response.
Maybe I did not explain it enough.
I have plumbed off from red retention tank of ISCV kit. I created another hole to the other end where it is blocked with aluminum cover with circlip. The only difference from my prev. setup is I'm now using Vacuum from all throttles via the ISCV tank kit in lieu of single runner (#4). Now it is issue free and love the setup. I have not noticed your symptom when I go into neutral while stopping but will double check just in case.
I am in Australia, using Haltech Elite 1500 and it's tuned by a local tuner who was an ex-Haltech Engineer.
I have never installed ITBs on an S2000 but I have done it on several cars. The last car was running a B18C autocross car. It is fairly tough to beat Honda at it's own game. The effort and learning curve is fairly steep. The tuning is not done pure Alpha-N or pure Speed Density. I have done a video on the subject. See
Looking back thru this thread, I noticed several pics of installs without air filters. Running without an air filter can be a big problem. Under hood air flow with blow a fuel cloud right off the top of the air horns. Search Youtube for intake reversion, ITB Reversion..... Turn off the lights in the dyno room with a timing light pointed at the air horns and then rethink all of this.
12-19-2021, 06:25 PM
