Driveshaft Spacer Necessary for Lowered Car? READ BEFORE POSTING
#51









Posted 10 July 2009 - 07:37 AM

Comptech / Veilside / Weds / HKS / SWIFT
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#52



















Posted 10 July 2009 - 04:59 PM
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Are you getting the vibration? If not, spacers are useless on the s2k. Spacers don't prevent pitting...they just move the pitting to a different spot on the CV bucket bearing surface.
#53
Posted 12 July 2009 - 08:16 PM
lowered at 119, noticed vibrations at 120kms.
At first you don't really notice it, until you start to feel for it. These vibrations started gettting really bad, my passengers would comment...
I also started to notice these vibrations a whole lot more when i put my oem exhaust back on.
Today i installed t1r 10mm forged race spacers, took about 40 minutes, all vibrations are gone.
:D :D :D :D :D
#54







Posted 04 August 2009 - 02:00 PM
#55
Posted 06 August 2009 - 11:16 AM
Symptom: Vibration from a specific rear wheel (left or right) under accelerative load (typicaly on hard right hand corners since driver side fails first) and at speeds above 35mph ALSO vibration coming from the rear during 80-100% throttle at higher RPM's in a straight line = pitted axle bucket - consult DIY in UTH.
Symptom: Vibration at higway speeds with or without accelerative load = wheel balance/tire issue/tie rod end/hubcentric ring missing
This post has been edited by SlipAngle79: 06 August 2009 - 01:14 PM
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#56
Posted 07 August 2009 - 04:30 AM
2005 F22C1 swap with ap1 ecu
Apexi N1 single
Invidia 70mm test pipe
Skunk 2 lowering springs
1993 Mazda RX-7
Street port
JIC exhaust
JIC Coilovers
Volk GTC
Apexi Dual Intake
Apexi BOV
FMIC
Greedy Elbow
Large Koyo Rad
1991 Mazda RX7 NA
No Mods
#57
Posted 10 August 2009 - 04:28 PM
#58
Posted 20 August 2009 - 10:39 PM
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For install you will need the following....
- 14mm with 3/8 Drive wretchet will work.
1/2 inch Will be make the task of cracking old old bolts MUCH easier.
- 14 MM Medium length wrench
- 5/16 HEX Socket for T1R Bolts that come with the spacers. 14mm wrench to hold nut down while tightening the HEX screw.
- For PSG Side because of the exhaust being in the way I needed to use Deep 14mm Socket instead of regular. Or 3" extension would do the trick as well.
This is great. I now can install suspension whenever I am ready. Right now I am still on stock high and this has resolved my vibration issue.
haha dude i feel the same way as you did right now. I have been afraid to push my car since this vibration started, but am about to buy these spacers. i hope i have the same success as you.



>>>>>>>>WTB: Spoon N1 single exhaust or T1R single. PM me if you are selling.<<<<<<<<<
#59
Posted 12 September 2009 - 06:31 PM
Only reason I ask this Is because my original plan was to install new axles and put the spacers at the same time
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#60
Posted 13 September 2009 - 09:07 PM
There is no need to do both. Either installing new axles (actually just the buckets) or putting in spacers on your current axles would take care of the vibration (if your vibration is caused by the aforementioned pitting) by virtue of moving the spider deeper into bucket away from the pitted area of the bucket. Cheapest fix is to just swap inner CV buckets from left to right, the easiest fix is to install the spacers, but is more expensive, and the most expensive is to buy new buckets (or whole new axles)
I just swapped my inner CV buckets and the vibration is gone for me. Thanks again to this forum.
HTH.
Mugen AP2 header, Invidia 70mm test pipe with added antifoulers, T1R-70EM SS exhaust, cryo'd 4.56 gears with Yellow Box set at 11, Competition PP, OEM friction disk, Competition lightened flywheel 11lbs, upsized Sumitomo tires 225/45/17 front, 255/40/17 rear. Pulstar Iridium plugs. Amsoil full synthetic 10W-30, Amsoil MTF, Amsoil Severe Gear differential fluid, Swift springs on Koni Yellows upper perch. Exedium differential collar. Innovative Engine/Transmission mounts. LED Dash indicators. Billman250 modded TCT. Science of Speed Big Bore throttle body.
#61
Posted 23 September 2009 - 12:07 AM
Is that what you guys talking about?
#62
Posted 05 October 2009 - 01:03 PM
Thanks negcamber!
#63
Posted 14 October 2009 - 01:41 AM
The problems i have been getting are similar to those described, vibrations under acceleration, but i have noticed recently, that i am getting a terrible whirring noise(similar to a dead wheel bearing) when i drive at speeds over 30km/h coming from the rear of the car.
I have had both wheel bearings replaced along with the hubs, so i can hopefully rule out that as the cause of the noise,
Is there a possibility that because i have been driving the car for so long with the pitted cups that it may have damaged the 3 roller bearings that go in the CV bucket, which is causing this noise that i am getting?
Has anyone else experienced this noise, if so are the 3 roller bearings that go in the CV buckets able to be replaced separately?
any help is greatly appreciated thanks
#64
Posted 15 October 2009 - 10:22 PM
This post has been edited by dc4nomore: 15 October 2009 - 10:23 PM
#65



















Posted 18 October 2009 - 10:14 AM
Quote
The problems i have been getting are similar to those described, vibrations under acceleration, but i have noticed recently, that i am getting a terrible whirring noise(similar to a dead wheel bearing) when i drive at speeds over 30km/h coming from the rear of the car.
I have had both wheel bearings replaced along with the hubs, so i can hopefully rule out that as the cause of the noise,
Is there a possibility that because i have been driving the car for so long with the pitted cups that it may have damaged the 3 roller bearings that go in the CV bucket, which is causing this noise that i am getting?
Has anyone else experienced this noise, if so are the 3 roller bearings that go in the CV buckets able to be replaced separately?
any help is greatly appreciated thanks
You do NOT need to swap buckets and get spacers. One or the other is all you need to do. You will get zero benefit from doing both...none...nada...zip.
The whirring may be from several things, including the CV buckets being dry. When you swap, see if there are tears in the CV boot and make sure there is sufficient grease in the bucket.
Otherwise, the whirring may be your diff. When was the last time you changed your diff oil?
#66



















Posted 18 October 2009 - 10:15 AM
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Its a vibration from the rear of the car especially while accelerating and turning...like when you are getting on an on-ramp. It feels similar to a wheel out of balance.
#67
Posted 18 October 2009 - 07:14 PM
#68
Posted 24 October 2009 - 07:23 PM

#69
Posted 24 October 2009 - 11:33 PM
This post has been edited by dc4nomore: 24 October 2009 - 11:35 PM
#70
Posted 25 October 2009 - 12:19 AM
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they look just fine, i haven't heard any feedback from them.
buy with confidence though, it'd be pretty hard for a company to screw up such a simple design...
#71
Posted 26 November 2009 - 01:25 AM
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I am having the same popping noises in my car. The noises started after 3-4k of driving the car lowered. I am planning to buy some spacers in hopes of curing the noise, but I was wondering if I have caused any damage to the drive shaft already with this abnormal noise or will installing spaces be sufficient. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
#72
Posted 26 November 2009 - 01:50 AM
my car is lowered on tein flex coils (bought that way slammed) when i got it, i raised it up about an inch, there are no spacers and i have not done the cv boot swaps either. my question is, will this cause the differential to blow out more frequently?? i purchased a used differential with about 20k miles on it, i have since put 20k miles on it, and it is knocking already. of course i do drive fairly hard, but i also change my differential fluid, tranny fluid, and engine oil once a month. could spacers fix the problem with my differentials going out so frequently, or is it just because the stock 4.10 gear diff is weak from honda already and i should just reinforce/build my differential? thanks.
#74
Posted 12 December 2009 - 04:44 PM
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I just started getting this exact noise in the last few hundred miles. I'm driving a completely stock AP2 with 45XXX miles.
How do spacers work for the variety in ride heights? I understand it alters geometry, but a completely stock height car and a slammed car are way off and the spacers are one size fits all IIRC.
#75
Posted 12 December 2009 - 04:47 PM
OEM Hardtop *OEM Front Lip *OEM Rear Spoiler *18" WedSport TC005 Forged Wheels *
New Winter Beater:
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