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How far should the clutch slave cylinder travel?

Old 03-23-2010, 06:31 AM
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Default How far should the clutch slave cylinder travel?

I posted this in the Under the Hood as well, but I'm thinking that the FI crowd is probably much more familiar with clutch related issues

I have been having problem a with my clutch and am trying to eliminate the hydraulic system before dropping the transmission. How far should the slave cylinder push the release fork? I measured mine to be between 9-12 mm or about 3/8 inch. I looked through the service manual without any luck.

Thanks
Ryan
Old 03-23-2010, 10:08 PM
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most slave cylinders and masters don't go bad that easily, especially on a car as new as the s2000.

i would think the line may have a leak and allowed some air to get in there. or if you had work done to the car, it wasn't properly bled.
Old 03-23-2010, 11:02 PM
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i've replaced my slave cylinder and master cylinder at least once, last time i had clutch changed (for FI), i had them both changed (the once i talked about) since it was "in the way" anyway, the master cylinder was leaking, you can see the puddle it makes in the floorboard
Old 03-24-2010, 04:48 AM
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I have checked my clutch master cylinder for leaks, none to be seen. I have also polished and re-greased the ball end of the slave cylinder. I also changed the fluid in the clutch master cylinder.

My clutch is not properly disengaging. I'm thinking that it is possible the slave cylinder is bad and not pushing the release fork enough. That is why I was asking about how far the release fork need to travel to allow for complete disengagement of the clutch.
Old 03-24-2010, 05:42 AM
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If you have gotten your clutch disc hot, it can warp and not properly disengage. I've had that problem before.

I can't find any info on the amount a travel required to properly disengage the clutch. I would bet though, since you've replace both the master and the slave, that's not your problem.

Have you ever messed with your clutch pedal adjustments? If no, I wouldn't touch it, but if you have, you should probably get them back to stock specs.
Old 03-24-2010, 06:23 AM
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[QUOTE=boostedf22c,Mar 24 2010, 08:42 AM]If you have gotten your clutch disc hot, it can warp and not properly disengage.
Old 03-24-2010, 07:08 AM
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It was the disc itself that warped. It was a twin disc clutch.

That is not an inspection bolt you are referring too. That just gives you access to the retaining clip that holds the counter shaft in place. If you take that out, be prepared to get a face full of gear oil.
Old 03-24-2010, 12:35 PM
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did you try properly bleeding the line?
Old 03-24-2010, 03:12 PM
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Yes. New fluid and properly bled.
Old 03-25-2010, 06:16 AM
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Well I've basically said eff it at this point. If I'm dropping the tranny I'm goning to make it worth my time.

I've ordered an ACT HD pressure plate and ACT street disc, , OEM flywheel, OEM throw out bearing, TO bearing guide, OEM pilot bearing, new slave cylinder, new master cylinder.

I also am using this an opportunity to change over to AP2 valve retainers, and while i'm at it I will be installing a 10 psi pulley. Oh, the downward spiral of bank accounts thanks to FI.

Anyone have suggestions on how I can explain to my wife why our bathroom remodel will be put off?

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