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TCT DIY - Replacement or repair Timing Chain Tensioner

#151 User is offline   gmen0101 

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 03:21 PM

Thanks to OP, Billman and everyone else who has contributed to and bumped this thread up. I had the proverbial 'card in the spokes' sound, especially on warm starts. Since I already had an air compressor, I bought the hand held sand blaster from my local Harbor Freight and some leveling sand from Lowe's -- all for less than $25. Did the blasting according to the recipe and for the past few weeks, no more noise!

This has to be one of the most useful threads in here. Thanks again!
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#152 User is offline   tmcerce 

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 03:33 PM

Nice write up


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#153 User is online   dwight 

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 04:15 PM

I already posted this in the NYC Metro forum, but it's probably more relevant here.
Before/after video of a defective TCT/Billman 3rd Gen TCT


#154 User is offline   Billman250 

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 05:05 PM

The guy was so happy to get rid of the noise he was laughing :)
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#155 User is online   JUSTINTHECOASTIE 

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 06:43 PM

View PostBillman250, on 16 February 2012 - 05:05 PM, said:

The guy was so happy to get rid of the noise he was laughing :)

That's what you do to people...it happened to me LOL
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Check out this thread! F22c in MY03

#156 User is offline   MBHs2k 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 03:01 AM

I have a question guys. I bought a used TCT with only 10k on it. It's got to be better than mime with 100k and making all kinds of noise. I'm confused on the cotter pin step. Do I need to pull the pin when exchanging the TCTs or can I just put the new one in and call it a day? Any help would be greatly appreciated
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#157 User is offline   Billman250 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 07:08 AM

DO NOT take that pin out....yet.

-istall TCT with pin in place, tighten bolts
-remove maintenance plug in front of head, THEN pull pin out through this hole

IF you pull the pin first and then try to install the TCT, you will break the timing chain.

#158 User is offline   MBHs2k 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:19 AM

Ok. So I remove the pin or just pull it? And I don't replace it with anything? Why is it there if it just get removed when you replace the TCT. Thanks BIllman

#159 User is offline   AZ-S2000 

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 01:24 PM

I replaced mine with a dealer TCT yesterday and the same damn noise.. So I think its time to return it and try another one, its ridiculous in my opinion.
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Well what I put in my s2k is half Shell V-Power and half Chevron with Techron. V-Power + Techron = VTEC! :D

#160 User is offline   Gloffer 

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 02:50 PM

The pin is there to hold the TCT piston retracted. After you bolt the new TCT in position, then you remove the pin so that the TCT spring can snap into the internal bar that actually contacts the timing chain that in conjunction with the TCT maintains the timing chain tensioned.

You do NOT have to drain the engine oil to replace the TCT. Just hold a rag under the TCT as you remove it from the engine to capture a few ounces of residual oil.

If you go through the thread you'll see that this is all addressed already.
c/ya
Mike S

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#161 User is offline   funkemonke 

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 06:34 PM

billman got gen4 tct out. contact him if your gen3 is acting up. 75$ for deposit and he'll refund it after he gets the old one back from you. so its a free upgrade.

billman is freaking awesome

edit: he said gen3 cures 95% of s2k's but i am one of the 5% and getting the new one. hope this cures it for sure.

This post has been edited by funkemonke: 04 March 2012 - 06:37 PM

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#162 User is offline   GWD 

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:59 PM

Hi - just replaced TCT and now the EPS light is on and no power steering. Can anyone offer any insight?
Thanks!

#163 User is online   _brandon 

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 09:40 AM

I actually tryed this a week ago and it worked out fairly well, I noticed an immediate difference and engine did get quieter. I sandblasted the wormgear and piston internals at work in a sandblasting chamber. Great write up. Only thing I must say is I did not see a need to remove the airbox, the only thing I did was move some of the vtec solenoid wires around to avoid interference with the TCT. Yes it does help, but not completely necessary. Just removed the lid.

Oh and GWD:
I had the eps light on and I just disconnected the battery for a few minutes, reconnected it, and drove it around (Like not even a block) and it went away. If that doesnt work theres a few more tricks you can try before you flash codes.

This post has been edited by _brandon: 20 March 2012 - 09:42 AM

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