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Radiator Flush,

#26 User is offline   Billman250 

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Posted 28 September 2010 - 06:37 AM

S2000 coolant bleed:

Fill the radiator with the front bleeder open, dont even bother with the one on the firewall. It does not work as intended.

Close bleeder. Turn heat on high. Start car, idle to operating temp (3 bars on ap1)

TURN CAR OFF. Open bleeder slowly, air will come out. Squeeze top hose, addition air will come out. Close bleeder WHILE HOSE IS SQUEEZED. Release hose.

Open rad, fill to top.

Run car another 2 minutes, shut off, repeat bleed above.

Repeat until all air is out, and heat blows hot air.

The key here is never open the bleeder with the car running. If you read carefully you will see at no point do you do so. All that will do is waste coolant, and stop you from getting the air out.
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#27 User is offline   yusukeg 

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Posted 28 September 2010 - 10:37 AM

I'm planning on doing this soon. I've never drained the coolant on my engine (68K miles on it) but I always check the level. I haven't done it sooner because the coolant or the reservoir don't seem dirty at all.
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#28 User is offline   gabster 

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Posted 28 September 2010 - 02:31 PM

Quote

Use honda Type 2 blue coolant. No mixing, ready to go.

I would not flush it with water. This system is one of the best designed and remains completely spotless.

drain the radiator. Small white petcock in the bottom center. By design, the block will drain also.

The most important part is to bleed the air out when filling. Many people have done engine damage by driving with air in the system. This car can go FIFTEEN MILES and be fine, then overheat suddenly.

Bleed until the heat blows good hot air.

I have a quick quick question here,
im planning on doing this for the first time on my MY04 with close to 60k miles, it used to have (assuming) type II coolant but green stuff, new one is blue, don't i need to flush the whole system before i get the new "blue" coolant in there? if mixed (green and blue) looks very dark :rolleyes:
thanks
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#29 User is offline   aresk3b 

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Posted 29 September 2010 - 11:33 AM

On my 2003 owner manual there's the full sequence for radiator flush.

Check your 02 manual to see if it's there.



#30 User is offline   aLcm 

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 05:36 PM

anything different steps on an ap2?
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#31 User is offline   aLcm 

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Posted 05 July 2011 - 02:42 PM

so i need 2 jugs of type 2 fluid?

#32 User is offline   00S2K01S4 

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Posted 05 July 2011 - 08:08 PM

When I replaced my radiator fluid (green) to the new blue version, I flushed the system with distilled water. Very easy to do but took me awhile to flush the old stuff out.
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#33 User is offline   Billman250 

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Posted 06 July 2011 - 08:09 AM

AP2 is the same.

Dont follow the book, you'll be sorry. Follow my post above.

2 gallons will be enough. you'll have a little left over.

#34 User is online   JackS 

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Posted 06 July 2011 - 10:30 AM

Assuming I'm looking at the right bolt on the engine block(bleeder), is there any way to get a wrench onto it without rsising the car? It would appear that removing the oil filter would allow me to do this bleed from under the hood. Is this correct or am I daydreaming? or maybe I'm looking at the wrong bolt?

#35 User is offline   aLcm 

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Posted 06 July 2011 - 11:12 AM

View Postamok, on 25 September 2010 - 09:44 PM, said:

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bleed screw

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bleed plug

while draining.


#36 User is offline   aLcm 

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Posted 06 July 2011 - 11:14 AM

Billman,

When I'm warming up my ap2, do I go all they way to 8 bars + 1 min?

#37 User is offline   Billman250 

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Posted 06 July 2011 - 11:25 AM

Yes. Run to normal amount of bars.

I will edit my old school posting :)

#38 User is offline   aLcm 

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Posted 06 July 2011 - 12:00 PM

Thanks I hope everything goes smooth.

#39 User is offline   robotvoice 

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 02:44 PM

View PostBillman250, on 28 September 2010 - 06:37 AM, said:

S2000 coolant bleed:

Fill the radiator with the front bleeder open, dont even bother with the one on the firewall. It does not work as intended.

Close bleeder. Turn heat on high. Start car, idle to operating temp (3 bars on ap1)

TURN CAR OFF. Open bleeder slowly, air will come out. Squeeze top hose, addition air will come out. Close bleeder WHILE HOSE IS SQUEEZED. Release hose.

Open rad, fill to top.

Run car another 2 minutes, shut off, repeat bleed above.

Repeat until all air is out, and heat blows hot air.

The key here is never open the bleeder with the car running. If you read carefully you will see at no point do you do so. All that will do is waste coolant, and stop you from getting the air out.


Sorry to bump an old post but these were the best instructions I could find on bleeding the s2k. Quick question Billman, when you say "squeeze top hose", which hose are you referring to?
'07 LBP S2000
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#40 User is offline   aLcm 

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 05:11 PM

The one that located near the rad cap . It's the long one can't miss is. It may get hot so wear some gloves.

#41 User is offline   Boss-S2K 

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Posted 29 November 2011 - 05:50 PM

View Postrobotvoice, on 29 November 2011 - 02:44 PM, said:

View PostBillman250, on 28 September 2010 - 06:37 AM, said:

S2000 coolant bleed:

Fill the radiator with the front bleeder open, dont even bother with the one on the firewall. It does not work as intended.

Close bleeder. Turn heat on high. Start car, idle to operating temp (3 bars on ap1)

TURN CAR OFF. Open bleeder slowly, air will come out. Squeeze top hose, addition air will come out. Close bleeder WHILE HOSE IS SQUEEZED. Release hose.

Open rad, fill to top.

Run car another 2 minutes, shut off, repeat bleed above.

Repeat until all air is out, and heat blows hot air.

The key here is never open the bleeder with the car running. If you read carefully you will see at no point do you do so. All that will do is waste coolant, and stop you from getting the air out.


Sorry to bump an old post but these were the best instructions I could find on bleeding the s2k. Quick question Billman, when you say "squeeze top hose", which hose are you referring to?


I'm pretty sure Billman means the upper radiator hose.

#42 User is offline   agthad 

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 04:48 PM

I did this last weekend using the hose squeeze method. I never got hot air until I reved the engine and then it came out instantly. Other than that it worked great. Much better than the service manual method.
Gig'em Aggies!

#43 User is offline   crisskro 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:37 AM

Searched the forums for the symptoms I had and decided my thermostat was f-ed. Also the coolant level was below minimum, and transparent. This is what you get when you ignore the car (I bought it this way). Bought an OEM thermostat, and oem honda coolant. The thermostat was indeed f-ed, the gasket was half eaten by the corrosive old coolant :|
Done the radiator flush procedure two weeks ago following billman's instructions above. After about ~1 hour of the procedure, I could not get the car to blow hot air. Finally gave up and went for a drive. After 20 miles or so, the car wouldn't accelerate at all, but idle was ok. Finally stalled when I tried to leave. Started the car again, and it started blowing hot air. The next day I had to add another liter of coolant in the radiator and the jar.
As far as I can tell, I either had a massive air pocket in the system, or the old coolant froze in the pipes, or a pipe was clogged by that stupid transparent (pink) coolant.

Tl;DR
Billman is right again, thanks a bunch. If I may add: also add coolant to the jar.

#44 User is offline   S~Factor 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 05:14 PM

View PostBillman250, on 28 September 2010 - 06:37 AM, said:

The key here is never open the bleeder with the car running. If you read carefully you will see at no point do you do so. All that will do is waste coolant, and stop you from getting the air out.



View Postagthad, on 06 January 2012 - 04:48 PM, said:

I did this last weekend using the hose squeeze method. I never got hot air until I reved the engine and then it came out instantly. Other than that it worked great. Much better than the service manual method.


:ponder:

#45 User is offline   robotvoice 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 05:58 PM

View PostS~Factor, on 22 February 2012 - 05:14 PM, said:

View PostBillman250, on 28 September 2010 - 06:37 AM, said:

The key here is never open the bleeder with the car running. If you read carefully you will see at no point do you do so. All that will do is waste coolant, and stop you from getting the air out.



View Postagthad, on 06 January 2012 - 04:48 PM, said:

I did this last weekend using the hose squeeze method. I never got hot air until I reved the engine and then it came out instantly. Other than that it worked great. Much better than the service manual method.


:ponder:


While the car is warming up, rev the engine some to get it up to temp THEN shut it off and open the bleeder per the rest of the instructions. Worked perfect for me.

#46 User is offline   smohan123 

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Posted 22 April 2012 - 11:54 PM

View PostBillman250, on 28 September 2010 - 06:37 AM, said:

S2000 coolant bleed:

Fill the radiator with the front bleeder open, dont even bother with the one on the firewall. It does not work as intended.

Close bleeder. Turn heat on high. Start car, idle to operating temp (3 bars on ap1)

TURN CAR OFF. Open bleeder slowly, air will come out. Squeeze top hose, addition air will come out. Close bleeder WHILE HOSE IS SQUEEZED. Release hose.

Open rad, fill to top.

Run car another 2 minutes, shut off, repeat bleed above.

Repeat until all air is out, and heat blows hot air.

The key here is never open the bleeder with the car running. If you read carefully you will see at no point do you do so. All that will do is waste coolant, and stop you from getting the air out.


I know this is a stupid question so feel free to shit on me for asking, but when you open the radiator cap after having the car on for awhile won't it spew (hot) coolant everywhere?
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#47 User is offline   Vinny_GPW-S2K 

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 12:09 PM

I think a video of demonstration would make everyone at ease especially me since it'll be my first attempt on doing this. Don't want anything to go wrong and waste money on the honda coolant. Was it necessary to remove the engine block drain plug since all my coolant is drain out since I have the new radiator install or is there more that I didn't know about?

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#48 User is offline   Vinny_GPW-S2K 

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 01:14 PM

Same concept of this video?


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