ChaseBaciles

okay, so the car has been parked since the last post. Started it again, pump turned on and NO LIGHT! left the car to warm up to 2 bars. Anyway, not satisfied and will follow up again.

ChaseBaciles

3rd start up tonight. air pump turns on and off. no light so I think it's safe to say that it's fixed.

The last owner drove around with CEL light on for the last few years and the issue was so small. Anyway thanks a bunch guys! real helpful!

triddle

I thought I remembered a little cap on that part... checked my car and sure enough:



Inside that cap is a little filter as well. You might want to think about replacing the part or at least implementing some kind of new filter medium on it. The original filter is not spectacular, just looks like cotton stuck in a tube or something like that.

ChaseBaciles

yeah Im gonna go to Honda and see how much this part is. Thanks !

triddle

Consider the K&N FIPK - I went from a stock air box to the FIPK almost entirely for the new engine note it produces. You are hearing that note now with out your air box but you'll lose it if you go back to stock. If you like the low level growl you get when your foot is in it and the bark you get when stabbing the gas pedal you'll want to go with some form of CAI system. If you dislike those noises or the whistle that is common as well go back to stock.

The vacuum line the previous owner ran across the front of the engine (going to the white check valve) can be pretty easily re-routed to clean up the aesthetics of your bay. You just need a few feet of the hose and some automobile rated zip-ties. If you go back to stock you won't need to worry about this as the hose routing is already hidden. If you go to a FIPK they tell you basically to do the same thing (except you run the hose top to bottom instead of sideways across the bay) and I think it's worth the reroute.

Have fun with your new toy!

s2klariat

Im having this same problem as well. I've checked and double checked everything. Pump runs fine and is not damaged believe me I've taken it out enough times. The hoses are routed correctly and have been checked and rechecked over and over. Also the white check valve is pointing in the right direction. Honda told me they changed the air sensor solenoid. I've been using my multimeter to try and find wiring issues but I'm starting to think it may be the ecu. The wires that went to the air sensor solenoid were frayed and arcing off eachother but since have been soldered and fixed and the sensor replaced by Honda but still the light. I'm at a loss for words and I'm overdue for an inspection

ChaseBaciles

I assume that you've already checked and double checked all hoses, tight, no cracks. wires are good. If the air pump turns on, it's not the wiring that's the problem as what I've read.

Air pump inspection as well, there are also hoses by the air pump that needs to be checked. Also what helps is after you reset the ecu, let the car cool. Start her up, you will hear the valve turn on activating the air pump. It will run for about 10 sec... then switch off. Monitor the point the CEL activates. With mine, it was everytime the pump turns off which makes sense because my vent was capped not allowing air out everytime the pump turns off.

If all is good visually. You may need to start inspecting the solenoid valve. I also heard o2 sensors could activate this code? not sure.. goodluck man.

ChaseBaciles

thanks! i'll check it out. I was thinking of just replacing the filter but keeping the oem intake arm...

I prefer short rams as CAI can cause issues with rain and snow. Billman mentioned i'm losing HP with this setup, is there a reason for this specifically or is it just because the stock filter is meant to work with the stock air box?

will an aftermarket filter fix this? I'd hate to think my car is not maximizing potential.

triddle

Billman probably has better insight than me into that issue but I'll chime in. The engine bay gets hot quick, especially when the car is sitting still. The stock air box draws air from just over the front bumper and it's regarded as being effective at drawing in cool air except it also suffers from heat soak when at a stop. My K&N FIPK also heat soaks at a stop. The difference is, and I've measured it (though poorly), in how fast the heat soak drops when you start moving again. Using my scan gauge and a visual check of vehicle speed vs intake air temp on a FIPK vs stock air box showed the FIPK losing the heat soak a lot faster. I tried to keep a manual data log but that was a total failure of an idea. Now I've got a bluetooth OBD2 transceiver and I plan on using a data logger soon and actually doing a study of the different intakes; with the data being recorded in real time I can crunch it later and get much better details on the heat soak times (ramp up, ramp down) as well as intake temps at any given moment for the current ambient air temps. When? I dunno for sure but Really Soon Now™.

I don't think the FIPK has snow or rain issues. I live near Portland, OR and run the FIPK and use my car as a daily driver. I drive in rain all the time and if I have to snow too. I'm not sure the filter doesn't get wet but I'm positive enough water is not pooling near it to get sucked up and hydrolock the engine. Here's a picture of my install:



Don't think I'm some K&N thumper though, it's not a perfect device. I wish the stupid logo was not there, they forgot to give me a clamp in the kit, and the K&N air filters are known to not filter out particulates as well as OEM filters do. I'm sure some form of adapter could be built to get the stock filter element on the K&N tube though.

OneSilverS2k

I see you said everything the pump turns off, mine turns on when the pump first starts.