P0411 code. Help!
10-27-2010, 05:31 AM
#21
Bringing this back from the dead again... My air pump is not damaged. My air check valve is in the right direction. All hoses are new and in the right order. I can feel the air pump blowing air through the big hose that fits onto that valve in the back of the engine bay. I have vacuum from the litte hose's connected to the check valve and the air solenoid all the way up to the solenoid and it stops. No vacuum after the solenoid when the air pump is running or not. I had the solenoid replaced by honda and the wiring fixed as it got frayed at one point or another. I checked the solenoid by introducing voltage and it opens and closes. I suspect the wiring to the solenoid but the multimeter reads it is getting voltage. Now is the solenoid just a positive feed with a negative ground? I'm thinking the ground may not be connected and I was going to ground it some where else but I want a second opinion. Billman please step in on this seeing as your the P0411 guru. I'm at my witts end with it
10-27-2010, 07:42 PM
#23
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Hmm I suspect a disconnected ground will not activate the system altogether? After resetting your ecu. When do you find the cel comes back on. There's about 10 sec that the pump operates. When it activates? While it's running or once it turns off. Being able to detect the timing can pin point eliminate alot of possibilities.
Btw I ended up going with a fujita cold air intake. Cleans up the bay nicely. A little weary around wet areas. Noticed a good improvement in acceleration but no diff. In grumble.
Btw I ended up going with a fujita cold air intake. Cleans up the bay nicely. A little weary around wet areas. Noticed a good improvement in acceleration but no diff. In grumble.
10-28-2010, 12:54 PM
#24
Light turns on when the pump kicks off. The air sensor solenoid isn't what causes the pump to start running. The pump has a relay next to it behind the bumper that turns it on. I'm going to do some trouble shooting again and hopefully get it fixed I'll post my findings. This has been most irritating
10-28-2010, 06:00 PM
#25
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Stock intake box with lid=best power.
K&N seals agianst the hood, sucks cool air from the corner. Best power with good sound.
Stock box missing or lid missing=good sound, major horsepower loss. do a roll on test with another s2k. Switch the lid from car to car. Car with the lid will always pull away.
K&N seals agianst the hood, sucks cool air from the corner. Best power with good sound.
Stock box missing or lid missing=good sound, major horsepower loss. do a roll on test with another s2k. Switch the lid from car to car. Car with the lid will always pull away.
05-09-2011, 12:04 PM
#27
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a friend and i need to start digging to figure out why i have this as well, but in the meantime, i need to get the car smogged.
does anyone think it'll pass with this cel? i know what the 2nd air pump does, and i don't see it causing any emissions problems, but i'm wording with a cel related to the air pump, will i just fail immediately at a smog station?
does anyone think it'll pass with this cel? i know what the 2nd air pump does, and i don't see it causing any emissions problems, but i'm wording with a cel related to the air pump, will i just fail immediately at a smog station?
05-10-2011, 04:45 PM
#29
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I'm having the same problem. I just had my clutch replaced. When I start my car cold it sounds like the intake is sucking a ridiculeous amount of air. I think the mechanic crossed some lines. Anyone have a pick or link to how all the lines are suppose to be hooked up would be super grateful!
