Component Speakers - 4 Channel Amp - Tweeters
#1
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Component Speakers - 4 Channel Amp - Tweeters
So i have component speakers and i was told that its not a good idea to run our OEM Tweeters with them because they have a good chance to blowing out when you give some power to the volume so i ordered a Crossover Amp to run it. I also just recieved a 4 Channel Amp.
I bridged two outlets to my sub, and the other two im bringing to the front of the car to power the speakers directly.
I ran the amp to the crossover and than the tweeters and speakers via the crossover amp. Before i put everything back together on the right i turned on the car to see if its working. The tweeter did not work, and the speaker seemed to be skipping beats.
So what im going to do is just run the amp directly to each speaker and forget about the crossover and run the Tweeter with the OEM wires. If the speakers are being controlled separately by my 4 Channel Amp, the tweeters should be fine running off OEM wires right??
I bridged two outlets to my sub, and the other two im bringing to the front of the car to power the speakers directly.
I ran the amp to the crossover and than the tweeters and speakers via the crossover amp. Before i put everything back together on the right i turned on the car to see if its working. The tweeter did not work, and the speaker seemed to be skipping beats.
So what im going to do is just run the amp directly to each speaker and forget about the crossover and run the Tweeter with the OEM wires. If the speakers are being controlled separately by my 4 Channel Amp, the tweeters should be fine running off OEM wires right??
#2
So i have component speakers and i was told that its not a good idea to run our OEM Tweeters with them because they have a good chance to blowing out when you give some power to the volume so i ordered a Crossover Amp to run it. I also just recieved a 4 Channel Amp.
I bridged two outlets to my sub, and the other two im bringing to the front of the car to power the speakers directly.
I ran the amp to the crossover and than the tweeters and speakers via the crossover amp. Before i put everything back together on the right i turned on the car to see if its working. The tweeter did not work, and the speaker seemed to be skipping beats.
So what im going to do is just run the amp directly to each speaker and forget about the crossover and run the Tweeter with the OEM wires. If the speakers are being controlled separately by my 4 Channel Amp, the tweeters should be fine running off OEM wires right??
I bridged two outlets to my sub, and the other two im bringing to the front of the car to power the speakers directly.
I ran the amp to the crossover and than the tweeters and speakers via the crossover amp. Before i put everything back together on the right i turned on the car to see if its working. The tweeter did not work, and the speaker seemed to be skipping beats.
So what im going to do is just run the amp directly to each speaker and forget about the crossover and run the Tweeter with the OEM wires. If the speakers are being controlled separately by my 4 Channel Amp, the tweeters should be fine running off OEM wires right??
It would help to list your equipment along with your wiring..
The best setup IMO would be to use the 4-CH amp for your speakers/tweeters and get a mono amp for your sub..
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i think my headunit is 50x4 but im not positive,
so your telling me even if im running the speakers directly from the amp and tweeter over the head unit it can still blow the oem tweeters? I think its a little over kill to use 2 channels for 2 tweeters, rather get a little extra bass and not have to buy another amp.
so your telling me even if im running the speakers directly from the amp and tweeter over the head unit it can still blow the oem tweeters? I think its a little over kill to use 2 channels for 2 tweeters, rather get a little extra bass and not have to buy another amp.
#4
Okay help me understand what you are doing here. From what your saying, I'm guessing you are powering the tweeters directly from your headunit while the speakers and sub are powered from your 4-CH amplifier? Also, what I would like to know is how are you connecting the 4-Ch amplifier? Are you using 2 pairs of RCA from the back of the headunit?
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Yes, u know what come to think of it my old Amp only had one RCA inputs now my 4 channel has one for the front and back, and i only have it for the rear, i will do now...
Also when i tried to bridge two outputs for the sub, i had to do one -/+ from "Front Speaker" and one from "Rear Speakers". I tried to do bridge the two -/+ to the Sub from the "rear speakers" and the sub didnt work.
Also when i tried to bridge two outputs for the sub, i had to do one -/+ from "Front Speaker" and one from "Rear Speakers". I tried to do bridge the two -/+ to the Sub from the "rear speakers" and the sub didnt work.
#6
Yes, u know what come to think of it my old Amp only had one RCA inputs now my 4 channel has one for the front and back, and i only have it for the rear, i will do now...
Also when i tried to bridge two outputs for the sub, i had to do one -/+ from "Front Speaker" and one from "Rear Speakers". I tried to do bridge the two -/+ to the Sub from the "rear speakers" and the sub didnt work.
Also when i tried to bridge two outputs for the sub, i had to do one -/+ from "Front Speaker" and one from "Rear Speakers". I tried to do bridge the two -/+ to the Sub from the "rear speakers" and the sub didnt work.
2 sets of RCA from headunit to AMP
1 Set of RCA from AMP to CrossOver (usually front left/right channel)
Crossover to Speakers (Speaker Wires)
Subwoofer in bridge mode is the - on Rear Left and + on Rear Right. This is how you bridge, you taking -/+ from front and 1 from rear is incorrect. Which is probably why your sound is all screwed up.
AMP Front speaker connections should be empty.
AMP Rear speaker connections should have only 2 speaker wires connected to it.
Heres a quick diagram:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/images/kb/amp-bridge.gif
Notice the black line on top? It tells you which 2 terminals to use to bridge your output. Its 1 from Left and 1 from Right but they are on the "SAME" side. Front or Rear, never bridge 1 front and 1 Rear. Look for that bridge line on your amp it will tell you which 2 to use.
Note: If your crossover is active, you will need to run the 3 wires similar to the amp. (12v/ground/remote) Also, there may be switches or settings you have to do on your amp to let the amp know that you are using it as a pre-amp and not using the speaker outputs on the amp itself. Just feeding the amplified signal to the crossover.
Hope this helps..
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I bridged it lke you told me two and connected RCA to the "rear speaker" inlet as well.
Now back to the speakers. After i bridged it correctly i had both Front Speakers -/+ open so i ran my wires to the front and setup my cross over amp. My tweeter again did not work, and the compenent speaker still skipped beats, i even tried connecting the speakers directly to amp, still skipped beats. I than tried the "left" RCA wires and although it didnt result to the skipping beats it did lead to buzzing...
You think it has to do with my 'setup' buttons on the amp??
Heres what they look like.
Now back to the speakers. After i bridged it correctly i had both Front Speakers -/+ open so i ran my wires to the front and setup my cross over amp. My tweeter again did not work, and the compenent speaker still skipped beats, i even tried connecting the speakers directly to amp, still skipped beats. I than tried the "left" RCA wires and although it didnt result to the skipping beats it did lead to buzzing...
You think it has to do with my 'setup' buttons on the amp??
Heres what they look like.
#9
You should be running an RCA from head unit to amp, then running speaker wire to crossovers, then speaker wire to tweeter/woofer. Think of the tweeter and midrange woofer (door speaker) as ONE channel. You only need 2 channels from your 4 channel amp to power the tweeter and woofer.
Also, don't run the tweeter from the head unit and woofer from the amp, that's just going to complicate things. It sounds like there's some sort of feedback going on between the OEM wiring and the aftermarket wiring. I ran into the same problem on a BMW. I re-wired everything to bypass the OEM wiring and the problem was solved.
Also, don't run the tweeter from the head unit and woofer from the amp, that's just going to complicate things. It sounds like there's some sort of feedback going on between the OEM wiring and the aftermarket wiring. I ran into the same problem on a BMW. I re-wired everything to bypass the OEM wiring and the problem was solved.
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