s2kevx

Well I haven't been driving the S as much (like 3 days but feels like an eternity) and been driving the single cam civic. Well just the other day the weather was perfect for the top to be down. I open the garage and try to crank the car but nothing. The lights are on but dim. Sounds like something is turning but nothing happens so I take the battery out and take it to Auto Zone to get it charged up. I put it back in the car and it's all good and dandy now. Well today I drove the S and whenever I stop or slow down it shakes and feels like its going to die on the road. The car eventually died and I had to recharge the battery again and wait 30 minutes but I was stuck in the bad part of town sort of. Long story short I ended up going home taking my civic's battery out and putting it in the S. With the civic's battery in it (AutoCraft Silver, same brand as the one in the S) it still stutters when slowing down or completely at a stop. My question is is it my the battery or my alternator or something else? If it was the battery I plan on getting a lighter battery like the odyssey. I do live in the Midwest so it gets cold up here if that makes any difference.

Saki GT

Your S is 10 years old? Time for a new battery.

s2cho

sounds like the battery

SgtB

No need to guess. Any parts store will test the battery and alternator for free. I highly recommend a Duralast Gold battery from autozone if you need one. They're tanks.

00S2K01S4

Or if you have a volt meter, you can check battery abd alternator yourself.

SgtB

No. You have to load a battery to test it correctly.

whippets2k

I'm surprised that Autozone charged it but didn't test it. Takes like 1 minute.

00S2K01S4

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...stions/4221215

MasterForce

i would say get a brand new battery. if it happens again with the new battery its probably the alternator thats not recharging the battery. hence also why your car is dieing cause your alternator gives up and all electrical goes down which kills the engine

s2klariat

When you took the battery out and put the other in did you perform the "relearn idle process"? Basically if this car's ecu is reset (taking the battery out will do this) the idle has to be relearned. It does it on it's own eventually through normal driving but the RPM's can dip pretty low as you are describing.. sometimes even stall. You can search on the relearn idle process but basically you crank the car after the ecu has been reset and let it idle for around 4 or 5 minutes and that usually does it. Basically what I'm trying to say is that your alternator is more than likely fine and you battery is toast.