Duralast Gold or Optima Yellow Top?
#1
Duralast Gold or Optima Yellow Top?
Just like the title says boys.
What battery do you recommend me to get on my AP1?
The Optima Yellow Top is obviously more expensive and leads me to believe that it might be better, but is that really the case.
I would love your opinion!
Thanks
#2
Optoma Yellow Top being better because it's more expensive is a bad way of thinking. From what I've heard, from people I trust, that have worked on/tuned plenty of cars, they're junk.
I bought a Odyssey PC680 battery for my CRX and it worked great for a while but recently has stopped starting the car very well if it's extremely cold. I don't know if it's a fault of the battery (I accidentally completely discharged it a NUMBER of times since the CRX doesn't have a headlight warning), a fault of my battery relocation (the ground point probably isn't the best, I used the spare tire holder), or a fault of the grounds on my engine swap, or a fault of my squeaky alternator belt not charging as quickly
On the up-side, it's lighter and smaller than stock, and it is dry-cell so you can mount it any way you want and relocate it to the interior without breaking any regulations or leaking noxious gasses into the cabin.
I bought a Odyssey PC680 battery for my CRX and it worked great for a while but recently has stopped starting the car very well if it's extremely cold. I don't know if it's a fault of the battery (I accidentally completely discharged it a NUMBER of times since the CRX doesn't have a headlight warning), a fault of my battery relocation (the ground point probably isn't the best, I used the spare tire holder), or a fault of the grounds on my engine swap, or a fault of my squeaky alternator belt not charging as quickly
On the up-side, it's lighter and smaller than stock, and it is dry-cell so you can mount it any way you want and relocate it to the interior without breaking any regulations or leaking noxious gasses into the cabin.
#4
Instead of getting an expensive light weight battery, get a regular battery, say, die hard, but instead of group 51, get group 93 which has almost the same crancking amps and reserve capacity but a lot smaller.
Group 93 is just an example. There are other groups that will fit fine in the OEM battery tray.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...CGRPBATTAM2___
Group 93 is just an example. There are other groups that will fit fine in the OEM battery tray.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...CGRPBATTAM2___
#5
I've had good experience with Costco's Kirkland battery. It's cheaper than everywhere else and they don't even test it for warranty returns. So once it starts to die, you can just exchange it for a new one as opposed to just having them recharge it and call it a day.
#6
This sounds like a a good deal!
#7
I just replaced mine last weekend. Costco battery came out to $71.80 after the core exchange.
3 year warranty with a full price refund (or exchange). The battery I picked up was stamped 9/2011, so you know it didn't sit around.
Really can't beat that anywhere...
3 year warranty with a full price refund (or exchange). The battery I picked up was stamped 9/2011, so you know it didn't sit around.
Really can't beat that anywhere...
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#9
$70 for a battery... You really can't beat that. Another plus, with the battery so cheap, a warranty exchange wouldn't cost much.
#10
Originally Posted by OvaDaLimiT' timestamp='1316931335' post='21003400
I just replaced mine last weekend. Costco battery came out to $71.80 after the core exchange.
3 year warranty with a full price refund (or exchange). The battery I picked up was stamped 9/2011, so you know it didn't sit around.
Really can't beat that anywhere...
3 year warranty with a full price refund (or exchange). The battery I picked up was stamped 9/2011, so you know it didn't sit around.
Really can't beat that anywhere...