Random1

=============== STR Threads ===============

STR Prep - Suspension and Alignment
STR Prep - Shock / Damper and Springs Discussion
STR Prep - Differential Discussion
STR Prep - ECU and Tuning Discusson
STR Prep - Wheels and Tires
STR Prep - Exhuast (tip to tail)
STR Prep - Weight Reduction
STR Prep - Sway Bars
SCCA Solo - STR Rules Discussion ---> (Debate rules and proposals here...)
STR Prep - AP1 vs AP2v1 vs AP2v2 vs CR
STR Prep - Intake • from DIY to Mugen
STR Engine Mounts

=============== STR Threads ===============

What shocks do you use? Any customization? Body length? Valving? Dyno Plots? Top hats? External reservoir mounting?

UPDATED 9/11/12

Car: 2003 S2000 AP1
Weight: 2650 lbs with 1/2 tank

Shocks: Penske 8300
Shock Body Length (lower bolt center to top of body/shaft bearing see photo below): Front = stock " --- Rear = 10.5"
Valving: Custom
Pistons: Compression - digressive --- Rebound - Linear

Springs: Hyperco 7" 950f/ 8" 750r

Front Sway Bar: Comptech Adjustable on full stiff (~900 lb/in)
Rear Sway Bar: 2006 MX-5 Front Bar with stock MX-5 bushings

Ride height: 12.25"f/12.5"r hub center to metal fender edge
Tires: 255 square Hankook RS3
Wheels: 949 Racing 6ULR 17x9

Alignment
Front Toe: 0.0 in
Front Camber: -3.0 deg
Caster: 5 deg

Rear Toe: -5/16"
Rear Camber: -2.6 deg


FRONT


For the front springs I use Hypercoil 2.5" ID "take up springs" that are 25 lb/in and 4" long.

http://pitstopusa.com/i-5077505-hype...i-d-25-lb.html



REAR


FRONT Dyno plot with custom valving inset


REAR Dyno plot with custom valving inset


REFERENCE Standard Penske Valving


Rear Shock Length (allows lowering in the rear with reasonable travel, ~1.5" before bump stop engagement). Using standard red Penske bump stop cut down by 1/4". Also using OEM top hats. Lower bolt to top of shaft bearing (part that screws into the top) is 10.5". See longer of two indicators in photo below.

murderedrsx

Man i dont have that much info. Haha.

Shocks: tein flex.
Springs: 671f/520r (reversed from factory)
0 preload
Height: 13"f/13.5r

josh7owens

Random1 (Rob) could you post some specs on your rear shocks? Such as dimensions? I'm curious about the following...


Shock body lenth from bottom mounting hole to top of dust cap/shock body:
amount of travel before the tire hits anything metal:
max your shocks have compressed (distance of that ziptie to the shock body):

This would help for people that get custom shocks made so they don't end up with shocks looking like mine..




these were bottomed out with 700 lbs rear springs and 60mm or so of rear shock travel. Also I've seen the helper springs on both the top and bottom of the main spring. What is the prefered location? My shocks came with them ontop but I think they should be below the main spring so that the body doesn't have to travel into the spring perch. Which causes rubing on the side of the dust cap as you can see. These shocks are only one season old and the limited rear travel caused them to already start leaking. They are being cut down over the winter and really need some specs from someone that already has short bodys. Please help me out rob.


edit- Your awesome! Tomarrow I'll post my shock dynos and all my findings. I'll pre-warn everyone I know nothing and just to take what I have to say as my findings and my findings only.

rjones

Thanks for posting the pic of the front mounting Random1. I will have to see if the AST resivors will fit there. Any problems with mounting them to the inter fender?

Random1

I have not had any issues with that mounting position and it's not too hard to adjust by lying on the ground and reaching in. They are mounted to the brake lines which is not the best, but have not gotten around to anything else. Maybe some day.

The hoses run across the front sway bar and had to wrap with tape to prevent chaffing of the braid on the hose.

//steve\\

For the guys looking to play with spring rates I have a full set of 800lb Hyperco springs that I'm not using and probably won't ever use. They came with my KW Clubsports and I opted to just run the factory Clubsport springs. They are 6" tall, 2.5" ID. Springs are in very good condition and I'm willing to let them go cheap. Also willing to split them up if you just want 2 springs. PM me if interested.

Hopefully this coming year I can get out to more autocross events. This past year the organization I run with has had dates that just haven't worked for me or event locations were changed last minute. (We have one really good place to run and one crappy one)

rjones

After looking at my car, that will not work for me. The stock springs do not leave enough room. I run stock class and just come here to keep an eye on what the STR guys are doing, and think about making the jump to STR.

berny2435

I'm just getting setup but I'll throw some dice out so maybe someone will learn from my mistake. I purchased some KW clubsports and haven't modded them at all yet so still with 570/570# rates. With these you have to cut the rear bump stops down if you want to lower you car more than 0.7" rear.. . If you don't, you will blow through the bump stops and have issues with the rear stepping out when loaded (sometimes violent).

Shocks: KW Clubsports
Ride height: lowered 1.52" front and 1.36" rear - ground to unrolled fender lip (24-6/16" / 24-15/16") stock was (25.9frL/25.95frR - 26.3rL/26.4rR) and yes, it ended up lower than I was aiming for (oops)
Valving: NA KW
Pistons: NA
Springs: KW 570/570 (10K/10K) and KW helpers springs front and rear
Car: 2006 S2000 AP2
Tires: 215/45/17 Kuhmo XS, 245/40/17 Kuhmo XS
Wheels: OEM AP2V2
FSB = Gendron 1.25" 1/4"wall set on full soft as of now
camber = -1.8f/-2.3R zero toe front, 1/16 toe in rear (yes, the alignment shop screwed me

soon = adding Hardrace camber kit front, Raising the car about .6 front and .5 rear and cutting the rear bump stop back. (might thrown on some 12K front springs)

When I go with wider wheels and tires, I'm upping the front rate for sure and bar stiffness.

//steve\\

^I've never heard that about the rears and the bumpstops. I'm definitely more than an inch lower in the rear. Maybe my low ride height is part of my handling problems.

berny2435

PM'd

After talking with a couple other local S2000 guys and some other knowledgable dudes, I'm 100% sure it's my main handeling problem. A couple of them have experienced the same issue with their S2000s and Miatas

I'm no Stig, but a violent loss of rear traction when under slight throttle mid corner = often means rear spring rate went to infinity and beyond!!!

To be less than a 1" lower than stock with the KWs 570/570 spring rates, they will have to be setup with more pre-load than what KW reccomends I think. The helper springs will be pretty darn close to fully compressed. I'll try to remember to post some measurements once I get them setup where they need to be.