IntegraR0064

I have my AP2 at 13.25", maybe 13.1 in the front, it works great. I might lower it a little under another 1/4" or so before next season. It's a good compromise for me. When I had it at 12.75" I was having problems with rubbing - I have lower rate springs and sway bars than some on here. Also my rear shocks were very close to bottoming out.

That extra 0.25-0.5 inch will not cause a large change in center of gravity. There might be some merit to the AP1 suspension geometry argument but I don't know since I have an AP2.

Random1

I don't know what the stock ride height is and would also like to know.

As for front vs rear ride height, that controls rake which can have an affect on front to rear balance (weight transfer under acceleration and braking). This is something that you should try in a few different configurations to see how you like it. 1/4" to 1/2" difference would be good for noticing a difference.

Front > Rear
Front < Rear
Front = Rear

This is where knowing the stock rake would be a good reference.

User 121020

Stock average ride height was 14-1/8" on my car. The individual corner measurements fluctuated within ~3/16" of that number. There was no rake to my stock ride height. Depending on bushing preload, corner weights, etc., everyone's stock measurements will vary slightly.

zo7vette

How do you measure droop? How much droop should we have? Do we jack the car up from the sides, or from the center of the front and rear? Sway bars connected or disconnected?

Jeff

berny2435

ahhh the mysterious droop question arises. Your actual Droop could be most easily measured at the shock with everything on the car, referencing from the shock top spring perch or top hat or the car's sheet metal shock mounting area. could also eyeball it from the top of the tire to the fender as you raise the car up. Special sensors can be purchased here and elsewhere for precise data. http://www.advantagemotorsports.com/Sensors.htm

I honestly don't know how much you really need with any given shock/spring/swaybar combination. It all varries on grip level and road conditions. But I do know that not enough droop can definitely cause the inside rear to light up.

how stiff have you already made the vehicle? Stiffer you go, the less droop travel you typically need unless you drive on really bumpy tracks and daily drive. If you are running the rear with the stiff OEM swaybar, you likely don't max out your shock droop travel before your swaybar stops the suspension from drooping further

zo7vette

This is the reason for my question. I see daylight under that rear tire, and the front tire appears to be lifting off the ground. And when I jack up the car, the wheels come off the ground very quickly.

Random1

This is the reason for my question. I see daylight under that rear tire, and the front tire appears to be lifting off the ground. And when I jack up the car, the wheels come off the ground very quickly.


[/quote]
Too much rebound can also cause this under a dynamic situation. I know when I jack my car up you can see the wheels fall after the car is up in the air. This is caused by the low speed rebound bleed of the shock.

The bleed hole seen in this photo and the rebound adjuster control the low speed bleed rate for my 8100s. Your 8300s may not have a bleed hole on the pistons for rebound, so the slow droop of the wheel should be most influenced by your rebound adjuster.


Have you gone to full soft (minus 3 turns from all the way closed or full stiff) on the rear rebound? Do you have the shock dyno plots for your shocks? If you measure from hub center to metal fender edge (while jacked up) for the rear I can do the same on my car for comparison. I have never had inside wheel spin when setup for STR.

dnace

I am going a different route then everyone on springs.

Stance GR+2way coilovers

Running 11k-f/13k-r at the moment. I just didn't like the understeer the other way. Been trying to trend towards the .5 lateral force balance calc.

Car had quick turn in with very little steering input and had controllable throttle over steer and great low speed initial turn in.

Eric stemler is really pushing me to try 13k-f/18k-r (about 720lb/1000lb) Would put me at .5 with my settings. Might be a little "too fun" for most, but I am willing to give it a try, since I love to try settings.

daverx7

I love it when people try something way different than the norm. I went the total opposite direction than you are heading and it works great.... umm... But, I don't count what happened at the last event. LOL

-D

josh7owens

what is this? explain please.