Random1

=============== STR Threads ===============

STR Prep - Suspension and Alignment
STR Prep - Shock / Damper and Springs Discussion
STR Prep - Differential Discussion
STR Prep - ECU and Tuning Discusson
STR Prep - Wheels and Tires
STR Prep - Exhuast (tip to tail)
STR Prep - Weight Reduction
STR Prep - Sway Bars
SCCA Solo - STR Rules Discussion ---> (Debate rules and proposals here...)
STR Prep - AP1 vs AP2v1 vs AP2v2 vs CR
STR Prep - Intake • from DIY to Mugen
STR Engine Mounts

=============== STR Threads ===============

What sway bars do you use?

Car: 2003 S2000 AP1
Weight: 2650 lbs

Front Bar: Comptech V2 full stiff (about 900 lb/in)
Rear Bar: MX-5

Springs: 950f/750r

daverx7

Rob, you might want to add the standard Gendron Solid Bar. Just a thought.

-Dave

Driven

no love for the Eibach bar?

cvedral

Anybody got one they want to sell? I had the Gendron soild bar but sold the car and along with it the sway bar. I missed the s2000 so i bought another one.
I prefer to have another Gendron but am curious about the Saner bar. Its much cheaper as is the Whiteline and Eibach. Either way i need to pick on up soon should someone need the cash. Sorry for the thread jack .

murderedrsx

Im running an eibach 32 mm front bar. On the stiffest setting the rate is like 470lb/in. Rates for all the bars and their settings would be extremely useful in this thread.

josh7owens

Car: 2000 S2000 AP1
Weight: 2600LBS

Front Bar: Gendron 1.25" solid bar on ballbearing mounts
Rear Bar: MX-5

Springs: 900f/800r

Front bar is currently on 6/6 but I'm backing it up to 5/6 once I fix a rear toe in issue. The solid bar is heavier then the hollow bar but gives me the rate I was looking for and I got it on the used market from a fellow autocrosser. If I was to do it over I would go with the 1.375 hollow and just run a softer setting. The ball bearing mounts are a very wise investment! They made the car more responsive.


The chart everyone was asking for...

everything is calculated using "puhn" then in "rate at link" then in "rate after motin ratio" (na=don't have the number)

Front-
my00-01 368.24/na/504
my02-07 385.36/na/385
my08-09 332.13/na/454
my08cr 367.39/na/503
gendron 1.25" hollow setting 1 578/527/721
gendron 1.25" hollow setting 2 628/571/782
gendron 1.25" hollow setting 3 685/621/850
gendron 1.25" hollow setting 4 831/742/1016
gendron 1.25" hollow setting 5 917/817/1118
gendron 1.25" hollow setting 6 1016/904/1238
gendron 1.25" solid setting 1 664/605/828
gendron 1.25" solid setting 2 722/656/898
gendron 1.25" solid setting 3 787/713/976
gendron 1.25" solid setting 4 955/853/1168
gendron 1.25" solid setting 5 1053/939/1286
gendron 1.25" solid setting 6 1168/1039/1423
gendron 1.375" hollow setting 1 813/808/1106
gendron 1.375" hollow setting 2 883/875/1198
gendron 1.375" hollow setting 3 963/952/1303
gendron 1.375" hollow setting 4 1169/1138/1558
gendron 1.375" hollow setting 5 1290/1253/1716
gendron 1.375" hollow setting 6 na/1386/1898
saner setting 1 na/566/775
saner setting 2 na/644/882
saner setting 3 na/739/1012
saner setting 4 na/850/1164

Rears calculated in "Miliken" then "rate at link" then "rate after motion ratio"
Rear-
my00-01 455/na/412
my02-03 422/na/382
my04-09 332/na/300
nc miata 149/na/135

I can add any numbers you want to this list if I'm given the right numbers and they have been verified with someone that knows how to calcuate them correctly.


I don't know anything about the Eibach bar. if it's 32mm thats 1.25" so the numbers should be around the saner or the 1.25" gendrons depending if it's hollow or not. I think anything under a "rate at link" rate of 817 is to soft unless the car has a aftermarket diff. That my own personal opionion. So basicly I'm saying if I was looking for a bar I'd want atleast the gendron hollow on 5-6/6 or maybe the saner on full stiff I'm your funds are limited. The Idea bar to buy would be the 1.375" gendron on ball bearing mounts but at $1200 some people might not want to pay that much. The 1.375" bar would give you 808 on the softest setting (just softer then what I recommend the min. be) and will go way stiffer then you need. The working range of the bar to me would be settng 1-4. Setting 3/6 is what I would run on my car. Thats 952 lb/inch at the link.


The second place at nationals this past season had his bar setting at 904 lb/inch at the link with 900lbs springs.

daverx7

Here is some info I got from Bill on his Front Sway Bars.

Hollow bar: 460-832
Solid bar: 531-954 (last 3 settings are 814, 884, 954)
Custom Hollow: 690-1240 (1240 is theoretical)

-Dave

josh7owens

Number difference between my numbers and the ones dave just posted is bill uses a different motion ratio. The numbers from my chart are from a spread sheet that a member made during the national championship this year. These numbers have all been verified.

murderedrsx

The idea of the bar is to spring weight off of the loaded suspension and back to the other wheel effectively just increasing the spring rate right?

I am curious because of how my setup acts. When I had my rebound turned all the way up and bar on full stiff with no rear bar my car acted like it was on skis in the front. I mean I turned the wheel and it went straight. My question is where is the disconnect between what the bar does and what the springs/dampers do?

**I guess by that logic I would want less front bar? AKA understeer achieved.

Random1

Comptech on full stiff is about 900 lb/in