FS: GReddy Turbo kit 290whp Price drop! Pics added.
#26



Posted 02 February 2012 - 08:00 PM
Just by the very nature of the long stroke doing this kind of rpm means the piston speed causes extremely high wear rates on the wrist pins.... Which is fine on a race engine but pretty much unacceptable on a daily use road car.
Before I parted with a lot of money for my setup I did a lot of research. I am possibly going to self impose a max rev limit on my engine just for longevity.It will produce max boost at 3500 rpm so in theory I shouldnt need to rev it, but we shall see.
Will you be running meth injection?
#27
Posted 02 February 2012 - 09:31 PM
mr-pitts, on 02 February 2012 - 08:00 PM, said:
Just by the very nature of the long stroke doing this kind of rpm means the piston speed causes extremely high wear rates on the wrist pins.... Which is fine on a race engine but pretty much unacceptable on a daily use road car.
Before I parted with a lot of money for my setup I did a lot of research. I am possibly going to self impose a max rev limit on my engine just for longevity.It will produce max boost at 3500 rpm so in theory I shouldnt need to rev it, but we shall see.
Will you be running meth injection?
I might not boost yet, the idea of a NA 2.4 with ITBs and a kick ass final drive is enough. MAYBE supercharge and boost but I'm sure I will inevitably go to NA to finish.
I'm lucky I have a spare low miler sat in the spare room. 4th shell gone, no biggy, the owner before didn't know it was just the shell.
#28



Posted 03 February 2012 - 01:34 AM
A big power NA would be nice but bloody expensive.best of luck with it and any help or advice I can give just ask.
I am going to be running big horsepower, hence the reason for a daft engine. Originally I was going to go for 1000at the wheels, just lowering it to around 900 made a masuve difference in price. The engine is good for 1000 but the turbo and fuel system only around 850-900.
Initially I will run only around 500 untill I put a Getrag box and 5.9 diff, plus a good clutch.even then I'll only run big power for some top speed runs.... The rest of the time the power will be wasted.
You possibly know this but the biggest problem with the stock diff is the standard case shatters, you can buy straps which hold it together. Iv got a 3.9-1 diff at the moment which revs out at around 170 with my self imposed rev limit that's going to be around 155.it's a gear-x strong enough for 750 hp Dixon tells me.
#29
Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:53 PM
The engine is out so budgeting 3-4k aside for the stuff o be done to it. Stroke, ITBs, head work and cams.
Once I decide direction it's half cage time and total strip out, a must for any NA monster I think.
#30



Posted 03 February 2012 - 01:19 PM
#31
Posted 03 February 2012 - 07:32 PM
#32
Posted 06 February 2012 - 05:09 PM
#35





Posted 19 February 2012 - 06:40 AM
That's about all I can stretch to.
* About 6 after eights have been eaten.

MY99 Silverstone S2000.Wheels, tyres and brakes: 17" gunmetal Rota torques. Continental Contisport 5p's all round. HEL brake hoses
Chassis: Front and rear lower braces, Front upper brace for leaning on at oil change time, full polybush kit, Meister R coilovers.
Engine and engine bay: Tegiwa brake master cylinder brace, Racelogic traction control, PRM intake,
Interior: Qube white dash kit, LED interior bulbs, Alpine HU with bluetooth, 2004 MY door cards with Alpine component speakers, Alpine rear roll bar speakers, 4 channel amp, CG Lock
Exhaust: HKS Silent with de-cat.
- ← FS: 17" oem alloy wheels with tyres in black as new
- UK For Sale and Wanted
- FS: Competition Clutch stage 5 SOLD →

Help













