Engine Check Light (ECL) problem Code not listed?
#1
Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:14 AM
Just to outline the circumstances, The car had its service / Mot about 3 weeks ago and have not had any issues; last weekend I took the car to the petrol station and filled up with 95 Tesco fuel (they had run out of super); i then took a short drive to have the 2 front tyres changed at local centre and made my way home about 4 miles away. After 2 miles the light came on (solid- not blinking) and there does not appear to be any difference in way engine is running / sounding and is not misfiring in any way.
I have checked the FAQ document and various searches and the code does not apear to come up following checking this earlier with my brother OBD reader / equipment which was hooked up to a laptop. The code read was P2A18 -and looking at the software this dis not determine exactly what the issue was related to. The software has 2 sections on the 1 screen and appears to show in the bottom screen if a code is detected and lists it; if it appears again it then seems to register as a fault and shows up on the top screen and the light comes on. The code was reset however after driving 5 miles it has now come back on again. I took some of the screengrabs while doing this and will hopefully get these emailed over from my brother later.
Have advised the garage and are awaiting a response on the code also. Would appreciate any comments on the following problem if anyone on here has had a similar experience on these codes???
#2







Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:22 AM
Sazzy, on 29 May 2011 - 04:06 PM, said:
FLOPPY
"When one cannot get hard when a girl is trying to give said man a blowjob.
When Taylor got on her knees, she noticed Ben was still floppy."
SPIKEY
"Like the term horny, when you feel the urge to have sex really badly. Spikey is derived from the sharp pointy horns of a devil.
I started kissing my girlfriend Michelle all over her body and we both got extremely spikey."
I don't like change, I'm still calling you Spykee or Spike for short :)
Mods: DMS fast road setup, BC Racing Coilovers, polybushed, Spoon front compliance bushes, Spoon lower front X brace, BEAKS tie bar, T1R toe arms, rack spacers, J's Racing driveshaft spacers, TEGIWA brake brace, JDM floor mats, carbon centre console, hardtop, smoothed front bumper, Work Emotion XD9's, Buddy Club ProSpec3 and decat, OEM front lip, OEM side strakes, Veilside V1 boot spoiler.
#3
Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:30 AM
Is there a specific reader I should be using?
#4





Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:50 AM

MY99 Silverstone S2000.Wheels, tyres and brakes: 17" gunmetal Rota torques. Continental Contisport 5p's all round. HEL brake hoses
Chassis: Front and rear lower braces, Front upper brace for leaning on at oil change time, full polybush kit, Meister R coilovers.
Engine and engine bay: Tegiwa brake master cylinder brace, Racelogic traction control, PRM intake,
Interior: Qube white dash kit, LED interior bulbs, Alpine HU with bluetooth, 2004 MY door cards with Alpine component speakers, Alpine rear roll bar speakers, 4 channel amp, CG Lock
Exhaust: HKS Silent with de-cat.
#5
Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:57 AM
Does this sound right?
This post has been edited by Spamsteiger09: 22 February 2012 - 11:01 AM
#6





Posted 22 February 2012 - 11:20 AM
Isn't that likely to be the front lambda? (The one on the manifold)
#7
Posted 22 February 2012 - 11:32 AM
GaryB, on 22 February 2012 - 11:20 AM, said:
Isn't that likely to be the front lambda? (The one on the manifold)
He advised something to do with high voltage as a result of moisture in the system, just wondering if this is a result of dodgy waterered down petrol? Not sure when i filled up a week or so ago if the fuel cap was 100% tight, although seems like im looking for explanations.
#8





Posted 22 February 2012 - 11:42 AM
I have no idea what P2A18 is though.
My advice, find someone local with a sensor, if the code is P1157, borrow a known working lambda from someone to prove it resolves the issue and then buy one.
If it were me, I'm not sure I'd be returning to that garage.
#9
Posted 22 February 2012 - 01:07 PM
GaryB, on 22 February 2012 - 11:42 AM, said:
I have no idea what P2A18 is though.
My advice, find someone local with a sensor, if the code is P1157, borrow a known working lambda from someone to prove it resolves the issue and then buy one.
If it were me, I'm not sure I'd be returning to that garage.
#10





















Posted 22 February 2012 - 04:47 PM
Spamsteiger09, on 22 February 2012 - 11:32 AM, said:
That is the front lambda sensor. On a DBW car it is a type of wideband sensor (not as good as some of the ones used for tuning, but still good). That code can be caused if water or anything else gets into the connector for the O2 sensor. Not easy to get at to clean/check though. While I've not datalogged one where there has been fuel contamination that is somewhat plausible given the sensor.
You could try filling the tank with super and crossing your fingers. Check the connector if you can get at it. Otherwise, it's most likely to need a new primary lambda sensor.
-Brian.
#11
Posted 16 March 2012 - 05:51 PM
Turtle, on 22 February 2012 - 04:47 PM, said:
Spamsteiger09, on 22 February 2012 - 11:32 AM, said:
That is the front lambda sensor. On a DBW car it is a type of wideband sensor (not as good as some of the ones used for tuning, but still good). That code can be caused if water or anything else gets into the connector for the O2 sensor. Not easy to get at to clean/check though. While I've not datalogged one where there has been fuel contamination that is somewhat plausible given the sensor.
You could try filling the tank with super and crossing your fingers. Check the connector if you can get at it. Otherwise, it's most likely to need a new primary lambda sensor.
-Brian.
Looks like a good diagnosis, after running through the old fuel and replacing with bp ultimate, then resetting code it's come back, garage has suggested bringing it in for a look at next Friday, they advised it may be possible to clean and that may solve the problem, I'm more sceptical and as above believe the sensor needs changing. I know these are circa £100 to buy and don't wish to be frightened by the cost the dealer may charge including fitting and labour!, has anyone replaced one themselves? I would not know where to start looking for it. Is there a guide to replacing?
#12











Posted 16 March 2012 - 05:53 PM
Search for 'walker' branded ones on here, lot of people have had success including me and are circa £75. Not that difficult really once you get it jacked up on axle just a bit of fiddling about underneath in tight gaps.
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#13



Posted 16 March 2012 - 06:05 PM
They seem to last a couple of years or so with a lot of short runs.
Why you do not want to order ANY of your S2000 parts from ANY UK Honda Dealer

F3Ang - "No it was surprising easy i had read on the forum about pulling it off when warm"
#14
Posted 16 March 2012 - 06:09 PM
s2konroids, on 16 March 2012 - 05:53 PM, said:
Search for 'walker' branded ones on here, lot of people have had success including me and are circa £75. Not that difficult really once you get it jacked up on axle just a bit of fiddling about underneath in tight gaps.
Thanks for that, will search for a walker one, I assume it's down the front end of the car on the manifold ?
#15











Posted 16 March 2012 - 06:10 PM
Wideband sensor die even sooner.
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