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Engine Check Light (ECL) problem Code not listed?

#1 User is offline   Spamsteiger09 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:14 AM

I have recently had the ECL light on the dash come on which I have not seen on my 2008 (57) car before; car has done 34k miles and just had its 4th year service / mot completed.

Just to outline the circumstances, The car had its service / Mot about 3 weeks ago and have not had any issues; last weekend I took the car to the petrol station and filled up with 95 Tesco fuel (they had run out of super); i then took a short drive to have the 2 front tyres changed at local centre and made my way home about 4 miles away. After 2 miles the light came on (solid- not blinking) and there does not appear to be any difference in way engine is running / sounding and is not misfiring in any way.

I have checked the FAQ document and various searches and the code does not apear to come up following checking this earlier with my brother OBD reader / equipment which was hooked up to a laptop. The code read was P2A18 -and looking at the software this dis not determine exactly what the issue was related to. The software has 2 sections on the 1 screen and appears to show in the bottom screen if a code is detected and lists it; if it appears again it then seems to register as a fault and shows up on the top screen and the light comes on. The code was reset however after driving 5 miles it has now come back on again. I took some of the screengrabs while doing this and will hopefully get these emailed over from my brother later.

Have advised the garage and are awaiting a response on the code also. Would appreciate any comments on the following problem if anyone on here has had a similar experience on these codes???

#2 User is offline   Floppy 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:22 AM

Have you tried another code reader? That doesn't match any of the codes in the FAQ's and my engine check pro won't recognise it either...
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#3 User is offline   Spamsteiger09 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:30 AM

No that is the only reader I have availible to me right now, the code that comes up before this code is P0008; again not listed?

Is there a specific reader I should be using?

#4 User is offline   GaryB 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:50 AM

Where in the country are you? There must be someone close with a reader.
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#5 User is offline   Spamsteiger09 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 10:57 AM

Based in Bridgend, South Wales, Just heard back from the Honda garage, I asked them why the light was on when I dropped the car in last week for bumper repair but was off when i collected 3 days later; I asked if they knew anything about it and said that they reset it as a P1157 code came up- something to do with the oxygen sensor with possible moisture in the sensor / fuel (strange why it wasnt mentioned at the time. They have recomended to put in fuel additive in on half a tank and will take about 100 miles to go through system.Light should then go out / can have it reset and will then unlikely to come back on.

Does this sound right?

This post has been edited by Spamsteiger09: 22 February 2012 - 11:01 AM


#6 User is offline   GaryB 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 11:20 AM

P1157 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range/Performance Problem

Isn't that likely to be the front lambda? (The one on the manifold)

#7 User is offline   Spamsteiger09 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 11:32 AM

View PostGaryB, on 22 February 2012 - 11:20 AM, said:

P1157 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range/Performance Problem

Isn't that likely to be the front lambda? (The one on the manifold)


He advised something to do with high voltage as a result of moisture in the system, just wondering if this is a result of dodgy waterered down petrol? Not sure when i filled up a week or so ago if the fuel cap was 100% tight, although seems like im looking for explanations.

#8 User is offline   GaryB 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 11:42 AM

If you're getting the P1157 code I'm fairly sure that's bugger all to do with water in your fuel. I'm fairly certain that's a lambda.

I have no idea what P2A18 is though.

My advice, find someone local with a sensor, if the code is P1157, borrow a known working lambda from someone to prove it resolves the issue and then buy one.

If it were me, I'm not sure I'd be returning to that garage.

#9 User is offline   Spamsteiger09 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 01:07 PM

Thanks for the advice, will try eurocar parts or somewhere else as Honda will probably charge a fortune to change.





View PostGaryB, on 22 February 2012 - 11:42 AM, said:

If you're getting the P1157 code I'm fairly sure that's bugger all to do with water in your fuel. I'm fairly certain that's a lambda.

I have no idea what P2A18 is though.

My advice, find someone local with a sensor, if the code is P1157, borrow a known working lambda from someone to prove it resolves the issue and then buy one.

If it were me, I'm not sure I'd be returning to that garage.


#10 User is offline   Turtle 

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Posted 22 February 2012 - 04:47 PM

View PostSpamsteiger09, on 22 February 2012 - 11:32 AM, said:

He advised something to do with high voltage as a result of moisture in the system, just wondering if this is a result of dodgy waterered down petrol? Not sure when i filled up a week or so ago if the fuel cap was 100% tight, although seems like im looking for explanations.

That is the front lambda sensor. On a DBW car it is a type of wideband sensor (not as good as some of the ones used for tuning, but still good). That code can be caused if water or anything else gets into the connector for the O2 sensor. Not easy to get at to clean/check though. While I've not datalogged one where there has been fuel contamination that is somewhat plausible given the sensor.

You could try filling the tank with super and crossing your fingers. Check the connector if you can get at it. Otherwise, it's most likely to need a new primary lambda sensor.

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#11 User is offline   Spamsteiger09 

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 05:51 PM

View PostTurtle, on 22 February 2012 - 04:47 PM, said:

View PostSpamsteiger09, on 22 February 2012 - 11:32 AM, said:

He advised something to do with high voltage as a result of moisture in the system, just wondering if this is a result of dodgy waterered down petrol? Not sure when i filled up a week or so ago if the fuel cap was 100% tight, although seems like im looking for explanations.

That is the front lambda sensor. On a DBW car it is a type of wideband sensor (not as good as some of the ones used for tuning, but still good). That code can be caused if water or anything else gets into the connector for the O2 sensor. Not easy to get at to clean/check though. While I've not datalogged one where there has been fuel contamination that is somewhat plausible given the sensor.

You could try filling the tank with super and crossing your fingers. Check the connector if you can get at it. Otherwise, it's most likely to need a new primary lambda sensor.

-Brian.


Looks like a good diagnosis, after running through the old fuel and replacing with bp ultimate, then resetting code it's come back, garage has suggested bringing it in for a look at next Friday, they advised it may be possible to clean and that may solve the problem, I'm more sceptical and as above believe the sensor needs changing. I know these are circa £100 to buy and don't wish to be frightened by the cost the dealer may charge including fitting and labour!, has anyone replaced one themselves? I would not know where to start looking for it. Is there a guide to replacing?

#12 User is offline   s2konroids 

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 05:53 PM

You cant really clean o2 sensors IMO.

Search for 'walker' branded ones on here, lot of people have had success including me and are circa £75. Not that difficult really once you get it jacked up on axle just a bit of fiddling about underneath in tight gaps.
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#13 User is online   unclefester 

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 06:05 PM

Just ordered another one( second ) for mine ( Pre cat sensor ) as it threw the same code a while back. I cleared the code and it hasn't returned but it's quite clear it's running a little rich so something is definitely not right.

They seem to last a couple of years or so with a lot of short runs.
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#14 User is offline   Spamsteiger09 

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 06:09 PM

View Posts2konroids, on 16 March 2012 - 05:53 PM, said:

You cant really clean o2 sensors IMO.

Search for 'walker' branded ones on here, lot of people have had success including me and are circa £75. Not that difficult really once you get it jacked up on axle just a bit of fiddling about underneath in tight gaps.

Thanks for that, will search for a walker one, I assume it's down the front end of the car on the manifold ?

#15 User is offline   s2konroids 

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Posted 16 March 2012 - 06:10 PM

A rich condition kills them sooner :(

Wideband sensor die even sooner.

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