Jump to content

Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

Rusted tight O2 sensor

#1 User is offline   Bkclark 

  • Group: Guest
  • Posts: 91
  • Joined: 29-February 12
  • Country: United States

Posted 03 May 2012 - 03:02 PM

Im having a problem getting my downstream O2 sensor to break loose. I have used buster to break away the corrosion and used many tools to grab and try and bust it loose but no way it wants to budge. I also don't have much leverage being as I only can lift the car so much using a jack. Any suggestions. Also I stripped the nut.

#2 User is offline   bat711 

  • Group: Guest
  • Posts: 412
  • Joined: 12-July 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Chicagoland
  • Country: United States

Posted 03 May 2012 - 03:10 PM

 Bkclark, on 03 May 2012 - 03:02 PM, said:

Im having a problem getting my downstream O2 sensor to break loose. I have used buster to break away the corrosion and used many tools to grab and try and bust it loose but no way it wants to budge. I also don't have much leverage being as I only can lift the car so much using a jack. Any suggestions. Also I stripped the nut.



I assume you mean a can of PB Blaster. This is a rinse and repeat process. Soak it let it sit for a couple hours. Try it again, and if it doesn't work give it some taps with a hammer to try and break up the corrosion and then blast it again and let it sit.

I had an O2 sensor that was stuck like this. After a few days of repeating the process I was ready to torch it. Gave it a third (or was it fourth or fifth?) dose of the PB Blaster and finally broke it loose.

#3 User is offline   cadams05nfr 

  • Group: Guest
  • Posts: 480
  • Joined: 13-August 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Country: United States

Posted 03 May 2012 - 03:20 PM

For future issues, it helps alot to have a o2 sensor socket. Alot less slip than a wrench. I need to pick up one myself
Posted Image

#4 User is offline   s2klariat 

  • Group: Guest New
  • Posts: 1,320
  • Joined: 10-October 09
  • Gender:Male
  • Country: United States

Posted 03 May 2012 - 04:20 PM

PB Blaster and two wrenches. Use the open end on the sensor and fanagle the second wrench into the closed end of the first to create more leverage. Like this

Posted Image
Posted ImagePosted Image
-2001 NFR Ap1; Ptuning Gt30r turbo kit; Fullblown 340lph fuelpump; ID1000CC injectors; AEM Series 1; ACT HD pressure plate/oem disk, 11lb chromoly flywheel; Ap2 differential; Ark 63mm N2 exhaust; Red Corbeau A4 seats; shaved emblems/keyhole/antenna on trunk; JDM clear diffuser headlights; CR clear side markers; Ricks front bumper S badge.

#5 User is offline   mister x 

  • Group: Member
  • Posts: 1,799
  • Joined: 24-June 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Honolulu
  • Country: United States

Posted 03 May 2012 - 06:42 PM

This may be a lot of work, but probably safer and more effective than working under the car. Unplug the sensor, remove the cat and work on a bench.
2004 S2K, Silverstone
1996 Xootr Street

#6 User is offline   s2klariat 

  • Group: Guest New
  • Posts: 1,320
  • Joined: 10-October 09
  • Gender:Male
  • Country: United States

Posted 03 May 2012 - 08:53 PM

 mister x, on 03 May 2012 - 06:42 PM, said:

This may be a lot of work, but probably safer and more effective than working under the car. Unplug the sensor, remove the cat and work on a bench.

So you trade 1 rusted bolt (o2 sensor) for 5 rusted bolts on the cat?

This post has been edited by s2klariat: 03 May 2012 - 08:53 PM


#7 User is online   Pinky 

  • View gallery
  • Group: Member
  • Posts: 7,794
  • Joined: 11-October 00
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Cary, NC
  • Country: United States
  • Interests:Family and cars.

Posted 04 May 2012 - 09:37 AM

 s2klariat, on 03 May 2012 - 08:53 PM, said:

 mister x, on 03 May 2012 - 06:42 PM, said:

This may be a lot of work, but probably safer and more effective than working under the car. Unplug the sensor, remove the cat and work on a bench.

So you trade 1 rusted bolt (o2 sensor) for 5 rusted bolts on the cat?

I second that.......And those bolts that are on the CAT are a major pita to get off too! Air tools are your friend there.

Though this might be your only option at this point if the O2 sensor is now stripped.
New England Owners Club
'00 S/N 3205 Silver/Red Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image
Replaced Engine/Tranny/Diff so not really in the club any more. Driveline re-starting at ~20K.
Sporting: '02 Replacement engine 16K(Oct. 2012), "Mingster" Dead Pedal, AP2 TRANNY, AP2-Diff, Test Pipe, bored TB, SS Brake Lines, AP2 Tips, Radiator Plate and soft top with GLASS!

Proud father of the first "Nor'Easter S2000 baby" weighing in at 8 lbs 3 oz! Arrived May 13, 2009.(do the math)

My OEM FOR SALE part out thread

#8 User is offline   TougeS2k 

  • Group: Guest
  • Posts: 1,444
  • Joined: 13-April 10
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tualatin, OR
  • Country: United States

Posted 04 May 2012 - 10:40 AM

I bet it will come lose if you get that car more than 1'' off the ground, use a fat ass wrench and do what was mentioned above, PB-wait-PBwait then attack that f@#ker like never before, but get a real jack so you can get some beast mode behind it, and also dont slowly apply pressure, apply force all at once, it will come
Posted Image
2003 50th Z06 corvette:
Bridgestone re760 sports, Mobile 1 syn @ 30k, Redline ATF @ 31k, Redline diff @ 32k, Volant cold air intake, Skip shift mod, CLB installed, Taylor 10.4mm race wires, NGK iridium plugs, new GM valve springs.
-SOLD:94 sc300 (5spd), 05 WRX, 02 Sentra Spec V, 06 Mazdaspeed 6, 01 s2000, 02 Acura CL, 00 s2000, CURRENT:03 z06 corvette-

#9 User is offline   SgtB 

  • Group: Gold Member
  • Posts: 3,937
  • Joined: 02-December 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Clayton, NC
  • Country: United States
  • Interests:Homebrewing, fast things, microelectronics, BBQ.

Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:39 PM

If it's stripped completely get a cheap 12" pipe wrench. Use a short length of pipe on it. Are you using jack stands? If you are not, buy those first.

#10 User is offline   davidc1 

  • View gallery
  • Group: Member
  • Posts: 2,938
  • Joined: 02-June 09
  • Gender:Male
  • Country: United States

Posted 05 May 2012 - 06:45 PM

If you tried it when it was completely cold, try it when it's hot. The difference in metal expansion might make it easier to remove.

Another option....ever seen those As Seen On TV sockets where it's got a number of sort of loose rotating little rods inside the socket? A friend was able to use that to get a rounded off bolt when nothing else would work.

Third option, just say "F it" and leave it on the cat. It doesn't affect drivability, and is really only important when it comes to smoging the car!

#11 User is offline   lemonjuice 

  • Group: Guest New
  • Posts: 255
  • Joined: 09-December 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:S.E. Wisconsin
  • Country: United States

Posted 25 May 2012 - 09:43 AM

 SgtB, on 04 May 2012 - 08:39 PM, said:

If it's stripped completely get a cheap 12" pipe wrench. Use a short length of pipe on it. Are you using jack stands? If you are not, buy those first.

Agree with this, I used my small mapp gas hand torch (yellow bottle). Mapp gas burns hotter than propane. Get a small 8" ish pipe wrench put a metal tube or your jack handle on the pipe wrench and after getting the o2 bung area nice and hot it should break free. Heat up the area where the o2 screws in because you want that part to expand so o2 comes out easier. Don't forget to put anti seize on the the new o2 threads in case you have to take it out later again.
They are taunting me, pooping on my intake manifold!
Posted Image

#12 User is offline   mister_two 

  • Group: Guest
  • Posts: 841
  • Joined: 06-November 00
  • Location:Jersey City
  • Country: United States

Posted 26 May 2012 - 08:15 AM

Autozone loan out O2 socket sets. In addition to PB Blaster I have tried Kroil to loosen stubborn nuts and bolts.

Ads by Google   S2KI

Share this topic:


Page 1 of 1
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

1 User(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users