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Tutorial on installing 8.8" ford differential from scratch

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Old 07-12-2012, 07:32 PM
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Default Tutorial on installing 8.8" ford differential from scratch


I have been converting my S2000 to electric, simply because I like doing unconventional and impractical things,for almost a year now.
Lots of work has gone into it. It’s not done yet, but it’s almost. I would sayabout 50% done. Once it is done I will post a video or something cool likethat.


But back to the swap!
As everyone here knows, the stock s2000 is relatively delicate. Incorrectlaunching and such will cause it to explode. Since a single one of my electricmotors is capable of producing 1500 ft lbs of torque, and I have two of them, Ineed to worry about torque issues.
The most severe part of the entire thing, is that there is no longer a bufferbetween the differential and the motor.
No transmission or clutch to reduce the torque going to the diff. Not wantingto destroy a perfectly fine stock s2000 differential, I chose to swap the S2000differential for something different. But what??

A little research on the topicwasn't very hard, and I found out I had 3 options

1. Send my stock differential to be cryogenically treated by Puddy mod himself
2. Purchase an R32 Skyline differential
3. Purchase an 8.8" Ford Differential

Option 1 Puddymod does amazing work, however the work is expensive. Even afterI had the stock differential beefed up, I would have to find a way to adapt itto support Dana 1350 drive line components, which are used with the electricmotors. The obvious advantage to simply upgrading the stock differential wouldbe that I would be able to remove the differential, and put it back in withlittle to no trouble. This would have saved a lot of time, but its okay.

Option 2 was also rather expensive. A used R32 differential goes for ~$400 andare much more difficult to find than Ford 8.8". Another disadvantage wouldbe that the gearing (rack & pinion gears) aren't easy to find. Lastly, thedifferential would have to be modified to fit the s2000, however (evidently) the axle flanges are compatible with the stock s2000 axles.

Option 3 was the winner. The Ford 8.8" independent differential was the perfect match for the s2000. Numerous reasons contributed to the choice.Gearing is abundant for the differential, the differential itself is practically indestructible, 1350 pinion flanges are easy to come by, and it is cheap! It just so happened that I was able to pick one up off craigslist for $75 about 10 minutes away. I really lucked out on that one.



However, there are some drawbacks to the differential. One major set back isthat the axles are completely different, and had to be custom made for my car.Additionally, it requires custom mounting, and once installation began Irealized that a major problem existed in the inability to install the axleswithout tearing down the entire rear end.
In order for the 8.8" differential to fit, it was necessary that I figure out how to adapt it to honda's existing differential mounting points. To simplifythe process, I chose to reuse as much of the mounting hardware as possible. Iordered a Ford explorer differential cover, which greatly reduced the time needed to modify the rear support are to the 8.8. I believe I paid around $60 formy explorer cover. Seeing how it was almost impossible to located a rear coverlike this, I went back and looked through my history to find the part number."7L2Z4033B Cover Rear Axle Housing" was its title on the listing.Using this information, you can find it pretty easily. For example, here http://onestopoem.co...roduct_id=54080.



The 8.8" differential without any rear cover

Using Autocad inventor, and Cambam, I created a simple drawing that I exportedto G-code, and ran on my CNC router. The router cut into a 1/4" aluminumplate which I had mounted on its table. I decided to get artsy with my work...





I ended up drilling the remainingholes on my drill press, since alignment of the differential was ratherdifficult. Ideally the differential would have been rectangular, with thepinion flange in the center of one end, and the mounts symmetricallyplaced on another end. However, the ford 8.8" is theleast symmetrical piece of hardware in the entire car. Everything islobside, uneven, and arbitrarily placed. And I’m not just saying that! It ishard to emphasize how annoying it is to realize that the pinion flange isn’teven centered with the front two mounts, much less the rear cover mounts!Because of the lack of symmetry, you’ll probably be forced to drill the holesmultiple times.

Eventually I got the plate drilled, and the stock mounting arm bolted onto it.

Checked alignment, everythingchecks out good!

I mounted it in the car, and proceeded to make the front mounts out of some1/8" steel. This was my first time welding anything, so I practiced alittle before hand and dove right in


An inside look at the old 1/8" front mounts


They came out okay… I was confidentthat the rear cover would be capable of supporting the weight and forces exertedonto the differential, the front mounting brackets were simply there to raiseup the front end a bit.

Now that the differential was In,it was time to take measurements for the axles. Measurements were taken, andthe data collected was sent to the Drive Shaft Shop, who promptly deliveredsome high quality custom axles to my door, big shout out to them!



Custom DSS Axles !


Although I have not yet run the axles, I am impressed thus far by the quality of the workmanship as well as the materials.



When it came time to sell the stock s2000 differential, I was contacted by a man named Ben Herne by email who was interested in my differential. Rather than giving me the full asking price,he offered to trade me an 8.8" limited slip differential, professionalinstallation, and some cash for the differential. After looking up the name, it didn't take long to stumble upon his company, Puddymod racing. Everyone on thissite practically knows who he is. He builds the strongest stock s2000 differentials that have become parts of hundreds of cars.


Ben took a trip down to Daytona,in a sweet Toyota FJ, to pick the differential up the stock differential anddrop off the posilock (I think) limited slip. We talked about his cars and jobwhile he looked over my s2000.

Later in the year, drove to BradentonFlorida to have the LSD installed, and it turned out great! Aside from a townfull of old people, it was a fun experience! Can't wait to see how it works with the car.

After removing the differential to bring it Puddymod, I decided that it was mounted too low in the chassis andwas susceptible to touching the ground when going up large curbs etc. Hence, Ichose to move it up about 2". I modified my 1/8" mounts, but ended uphaving to throw them out because I overlooked something.


A provocative view of the differential and pinion flange!


The pinion flange for a 1350 setup is huge, far larger than the stock s2000 flange. The diameter of the flange nearly overlaps the s2000's differential mounting bushings. With the previously designed front differential mounts, the pinion flange had about 2 mmof clearance between the mounts. To increase the distance between the flange and mounts, I had to re-do the design. Rather than going out and up, I had to go straight up, and out.

A day or two later, I had completed the new mounts, and painted them.




I reinserted the differential, and made sure it did not rub or anything. Shazam!Perfect. The pinion flange spun freely!


The final step was to install the stock axles. Another obstacle appeared here; the wheel hubs needed to be removed in order to install the axles.

In order for the wheel hubs to be removed, one must also disconnect the brake line, speed (or VSS) (or ABS)sensor, hand brake cable and mount, as well as figure out a way to separate the knuckle after not being removed for 10 years.



Some hours pass, the axles are installed, and the wheels are back on.
I took some additional time to take out the torque wrench and ensure all mybolts were correctly torqued. I don't want my axle flying off on the highway!

Since the rear end is completed,I went ahead and reconnected the brake lines, and sensors that I removed when I uninstalled the rear sub frame to remove the gas tank.
Dropped the car, pushed it, and the pinion flange rotates. Job well done, give yourself a pat on the back!







Old 07-13-2012, 09:47 AM
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nice write up...
Old 07-14-2012, 04:46 PM
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any interest in selling any more CNC cut rear mounting plates? PM me if possible
Old 07-16-2012, 05:39 PM
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Nice work. Good luck with the rest of your electric conversion..
Old 07-17-2012, 10:04 AM
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nice job!

Haha "Love 2 Litter", haha
Old 07-24-2012, 05:47 PM
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Thanks guys!
Unfortunately I sold the CNC because I wanted to switch to Co2 laser
If anyone really wants some metal plates made, I can talk to my machinist buddy and see if he can crack some out.

And yes I loved the 'Love to litter' cut out. Originally it hung below the rear subframe, it was beautiful. You could squat down and look under the car, and see the text. Unfortunately, the final mounting of the differential moved it up like 3 inches, causing the text be hidden. It was a sad day for fellow litter-ers.
Old 07-25-2012, 07:26 AM
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did you use the stock drive shaft?
the only things you needed were custom axles and mounts?

and by mounts it was only 3 mounts?

kinda cool. prolly didnt cost you much to get this done. nice work.
Old 07-25-2012, 08:43 AM
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Wow! Thumbs up for ingenuity Would be eager to hear more about your project.
Old 07-25-2012, 10:42 PM
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awesome project!
Old 08-05-2012, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by camuman
did you use the stock drive shaft?
the only things you needed were custom axles and mounts?

and by mounts it was only 3 mounts?

kinda cool. prolly didnt cost you much to get this done. nice work.

Hey

Since my electric motors use a 1350 shaft, there was no use in the stock driveshaft.




Heres the turbo 400 stubby yoke for the motors




And an old picture showing the mount

There are only 3 physical mounting pieces, the large rear mount, and then the two front mounts. In theory the large rear mount has the capability to hold the differential, the front mounts simply make sure the differential is level.

I know people don't really like drive shaft shop, but thus far my aluminum driveshaft and rear axles seem great!!


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