Car doesn't want to go into gear when it's cold out
Posted 23 December 2012 - 04:04 PM
Also I haveno idea wat type of oil the previous owner used. Anyway of telling if they used synthetic or not?
Posted 24 December 2012 - 11:12 AM
Checke your clutch fluid level. If it's low, you will need to add clutch fluid and bleed your lines to get the air out.
If this doesn't fix it, you likely have problems with your synchros. Changing your transmission fluid might help, but it's hard to tell if it will fix it.
This post has been edited by slalom44: 24 December 2012 - 11:14 AM
Posted 25 December 2012 - 12:34 PM
If you are uncertain about the oil in terms of viscosity, then change it. Once you change it, there's no need to analyze it. The old oil is gone, so who really cares? If you are confident of the viscosity of the oil and when it was changed last and it's still got time and miles left, don't worry about whether it's synthetic or not. Just use whatever correct viscosity oil you have or wish to buy and use it for topping up. After the next change, you'll know exactly what you've got in there. Don't worry about mixing viscosities or synthetic with non-synthetic. This harms nothing and has been done as long as synthetics have existed. Ever heard of synthetic "blend"? If you have 4.5 qts of 5W40 and add 1 qt. of 10W30, you simply end up with a crankcase of a mix. Rough calculation would make it a 5.2W33 oil. No big deal.
Posted 04 January 2013 - 09:00 PM
That's always a possibility. If it has leaks now, it'll leak more with full synthetic. If it doesn't leak, with that kind of miles on it, it may or may not leak with syn.
Posted 06 January 2013 - 08:42 PM
This has been discussed and argued till the moon turns blue. Honda recommends 10W30 or 5W40. Syntec, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Penzoil, Quaker State., etc, etc. What do you like? What is easy for you to get? Read the oil threads stickied at the top of this section.
Posted 13 January 2013 - 05:47 AM
Posted 13 January 2013 - 02:08 PM
Amsoil seems superior in every test. Mobile 1 is usually in the middle or towards the top. I think I will go with Amsoil, but if I cant find any mobile 1 will do.
Posted 13 January 2013 - 05:06 PM
Ive been dealing with trannys for a long time, and if all of your components (clutch, pressure plate, tranny, flywheel etc.) are working correctly you should have no problem at all running a simple generic 90w gear oil. that being said, a synthetic oil would be better just because of the breakdown factor over time. a manual trans doesn't build a 1/4 the temperature of a automatic. so when you drain your trans oil it should look very bad at all, mabye a few shades darker than how it came out of the bottle.
As for the not going into gear problem, start with the simple things, bleed the clutch, check the slave adjustment and check the pressure plate for extensive wear (very unlikely).
Posted 13 January 2013 - 06:31 PM
Note: I've only put about 3100 miles on these fluids thus far.
Posted 13 January 2013 - 07:02 PM
Anyway, for engine oil, go with any brand name motor oil of the recommended viscosity and API rating. Mobil 1 seems to burn up faster for some S2000s than with other oils. Look at the date of that thread you linked. Times change and so have oil formulations. Amsoil is good but might be over kill for the vast majority of S2000s. Do you really want to spend that kind of money when a much cheaper oil will do just as well? That's up to you. Castrol Syntec seems to be today's favored choice among S2000 owners.
As for the tranny fluid, you can't go wrong with Honda's current offering of MTF, which is closer to a 5W30 motor oil with extra additives. I wouldn't be putting a 90 weight gear oil into the tranny. That's more for the diff.
Posted 14 January 2013 - 11:41 AM
Posted 14 January 2013 - 12:40 PM
If you're changing all fluids, might I suggest .................
For engine ................ Syntec 10W30 or 5W40 (about 5.5 qts.)
For tranny ................ Honda MTF (you'll buy 2 qt. bottles but will only use about 1.75 qts.)
For diff .................. Mobil 1 75W90 or 75W110 or SAE 90. All MUST be GL-5 rated. The SAE 90 is obtained from most motorcycle shops and is sold as "hypoid gear oil". You'll need 1 bottle but use only about 0.8 qt. of it.
Check the boiling point and freeze point of the engine coolant. If you need to change it, flush it out real good and use Honda Type II. It's already pre-mixed (no dilution needed). You'll need ~2 gallons. Bleeding the system can be tricky but do some reading and you'll find the procedure.
Consider changing the brake and clutch fluids. You can use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. If you intend on doing a complete flush and change, you should get about 1 liter (1 qt.). If you want to just do a basic change for the time being, just suck out the stuff in the reservoirs and replace that. You'll only need less than a pint.
Posted 14 January 2013 - 02:42 PM
One more question. Since I dont know if syntetic or regular oil was used in the car before. Should I add one of those oil cleaners before I add the syntec
Not necessary. You can switch between synthetic and non-synthetic. There's no black magic behind it. They even make a synthetic "blend". Don't listen to too many "old wives".
Posted 14 January 2013 - 02:53 PM
You might consider using the Honda OEM oil filter as the M1 filter has been known to back off.
One of my friends (altiain on this forum) had his back off at the track, leading to an engine fire. If yuo use another filter just make sure to use a filter lock.
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