My learning curve
11-25-2012, 11:17 PM
#21
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lol aozora, I just realised i *read* and essay 
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interesting thing to note on the americans talking about 4.77 fd and how they are no good for track because of shift times - according to the americans, it takes the average american 1.2 seconds to shift a gear, from clutch in to clutch out and throttle down. there is a slight floor in their argument...the longest a shift took me, from off the accelerator to on again, was .9 seconds, taking my time (1st to 2nd as i like to throw it in to neutral then 2nd rather than snapping it straight down . so i dunno, maybe if they had normal human reflexes (as i am by no means quick) they wouldn't have as much of a problem with slower lap times
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. interesting thing to note on the americans talking about 4.77 fd and how they are no good for track because of shift times - according to the americans, it takes the average american 1.2 seconds to shift a gear, from clutch in to clutch out and throttle down. there is a slight floor in their argument...the longest a shift took me, from off the accelerator to on again, was .9 seconds, taking my time (1st to 2nd as i like to throw it in to neutral then 2nd rather than snapping it straight down . so i dunno, maybe if they had normal human reflexes (as i am by no means quick) they wouldn't have as much of a problem with slower lap times
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11-25-2012, 11:59 PM
#22
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pure_na, shifting up can account for significant loss in time, because it's not just the act of shifting gears. The point of shifting up a gear is to maintain or increase acceleration (and to increase speed). But during the gear shift, you're not accelerating, so to make the gear shift worthwhile, the time spent in the higher gear and speed must at least compensate for the time lost shifting gears. Over the years, analysing PerformanceBox track data for myself and others around the Brisbane race tracks, the time to regain speed from a few extra gear shifts can be over a second per sub-60s lap.
11-26-2012, 12:08 AM
#23
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pure_na, shifting up can account for significant loss in time, because it's not just the act of shifting gears. The point of shifting up a gear is to maintain or increase acceleration (and to increase speed). But during the gear shift, you're not accelerating, so to make the gear shift worthwhile, the time spent in the higher gear and speed must at least compensate for the time lost shifting gears. Over the years, analysing PerformanceBox track data for myself and others around the Brisbane race tracks, the time to regain speed from a few extra gear shifts can be over a second per sub-60s lap.
. i am also not disputing any arguments regarding varying tracks and where you will be in/out of the powerband with a certain final drive. i just thought that as a noob, when i was reading up on final drives, it was annoying to see what i would consider absolute bulls*** mixed in with propper arguments.
11-26-2012, 01:39 AM
#25
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Thread Starter
Aozora! Thanks mate, that definitely shaded in some grey area's. I think simply because i don't DD the car i will try the RS-3. Also if it looks like its going to rain i normally wont drive the car so i think the decision is made. Where did you source your AP2 diff housing from?
In regards to the 4.77, i must say my decision to buy it was made from the hall of fame board. I seen that most of the top placing cars were running a 4.77. The 4.1 OEM one seems a bit to long. Im at the point of being short on a few corners as i need to shift up mid corner. I fell if i went a bit closer then i wouldn't need to shift into the low gear to begin with. I guess the down side to that is there will be a extra shift up on the straights after the corner where i normally would just let it run to the end of the gear. Having said that i haven't really factored in the lessened rev drop with the higher gearing.
In regards to the 4.77, i must say my decision to buy it was made from the hall of fame board. I seen that most of the top placing cars were running a 4.77. The 4.1 OEM one seems a bit to long. Im at the point of being short on a few corners as i need to shift up mid corner. I fell if i went a bit closer then i wouldn't need to shift into the low gear to begin with. I guess the down side to that is there will be a extra shift up on the straights after the corner where i normally would just let it run to the end of the gear. Having said that i haven't really factored in the lessened rev drop with the higher gearing.
12-09-2012, 01:09 AM
#27
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Thread Starter
Small update.
My girlfriend picked up my car from the painters the other day. The exterior was very neglected so i got everything painted minus the front and rear bar and stupidly i forgot the bit around the windscreen. On with the few pics i got, To say im pleased with how the exterior is currently is a understatement. The wheels really let it down but they are going to have to wait. I also got some RS3's for 1050$ to my door so we will see what effect those and the hardtop have on my times next year.
Thats not fixed down either, that is just sitting there. I got some "race" mounts for it as i have no intention of ever driving the car with the roof down. I think in the 18 month i have had it i have put the top down twice. So other then the seals i will probably selling the rest of this gear in the near future if its of use to anyone.
On a side note. Painter i use did the front guards and re spray on my old civic and he said that the quality on the finish of the parts is like nothing he has seen and he has been in the game for a long time. I guess you really do get what you pay for. Neither the bonnet or and hardtop required any form of prep work, he said as far as aftermarket parts go that is almost un heard of.
My girlfriend picked up my car from the painters the other day. The exterior was very neglected so i got everything painted minus the front and rear bar and stupidly i forgot the bit around the windscreen. On with the few pics i got, To say im pleased with how the exterior is currently is a understatement. The wheels really let it down but they are going to have to wait. I also got some RS3's for 1050$ to my door so we will see what effect those and the hardtop have on my times next year.
Thats not fixed down either, that is just sitting there. I got some "race" mounts for it as i have no intention of ever driving the car with the roof down. I think in the 18 month i have had it i have put the top down twice. So other then the seals i will probably selling the rest of this gear in the near future if its of use to anyone.
On a side note. Painter i use did the front guards and re spray on my old civic and he said that the quality on the finish of the parts is like nothing he has seen and he has been in the game for a long time. I guess you really do get what you pay for. Neither the bonnet or and hardtop required any form of prep work, he said as far as aftermarket parts go that is almost un heard of.
01-04-2013, 03:54 AM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Small update, Fitted the hard top. I set aside 6 hours to strip my interior, remove the soft top, install mounts and put interior back together. History shows i usually opt for not putting all the interior back in, this time was no different. Over view of how i did my install. The DIY i read said you need to remove seats, pretty much all of your rear interior, seat belts, secret compartment ETC, in reality you only need to remove the roll over loops plastic, the interior cover over the soft top motors, parcel tray and if removing the soft top for good the centre console. I have aftermarket seats so maybe thats why it wasn't a issue for me but i don't see the need to remove them. What i do recommend however is having a second set of hands. The soft top including motors weighs in a 30.3kg and is awkward! It was a PITA to lift out by myself. The mugen top is a work of art. I cant fault it. The OEM seals fit perfect, my first attempt at fixing it down and i dont have wind noise. It doesnt squeak or rattle. The fitment is pretty good, if i could have been bothered and maybe had 2 people you could easily get it to fit as good as OEM, i have no doubt about that. Was it worth the cost? Yes, plain and simple. I have seen copies and they are night and day in regards to finish and quality. Oh yeah, Weight saving from this was. 30.3 on the soft top and interior. Hardtop with mounts 15.1kg and the extinguisher was 2.2kg. So i dropped 13kg which should now put me at 1199kg full without driver.
On to a few crappy photos, interior before hardtop.
Holes for the OEM seals to fit to, you have to drill these out as the supplied holes arent big enough. As for the two holes with the thread in them, i have no idea what they are used for.
The 'Race' mounts from RSG. Terrible finish on them. Sharp edges and crooked holes. The work well, but if thats the product they turn out im starting to rethink my plan to run one of their roll bars.
I ended up wet and dry sanding these ones back to remove all the sharp edges and gave them a coat of paint. Also replaced the OEM bolts with some dome head allen key bolts.
I had every intention of putting all the interior back on, but i needed somewhere to mount my extinguisher and i didnt want to place it on the floor so i placed it here. Just as easy to reach from the drivers seat.
Super grainie photo but i made up to carbon block off plates to cover the holes from the headlight washers and roof switch.
After the install i went and got the RS3's fitted and tested for wind leaks, but as i mentioned before. Nothing.
I have been friends with Rory from downshiftaus for a fair few years now so i dropped into their end of year meet to help out on the canteen. Sadly i didnt get to leave there to have a walk around. I seen a few S2000's roll in which would have been nice to see like duy's and his cousins and if i can recall i think there was even one there with a Amuse GT1 kit, would love to think it were genuine!
My good friend Alex and his Imported eg something. Not sure on the number. Now has a JHH built B20 and idles like a 13B, its pretty cool.
Well next trip home will be only for a few hours as im going to Japan again. This time round im hoping to head to ASM when im in Tokyo and re visit Js in Osaka so when i return from that i will post up what i found.
On to a few crappy photos, interior before hardtop.
Holes for the OEM seals to fit to, you have to drill these out as the supplied holes arent big enough. As for the two holes with the thread in them, i have no idea what they are used for.
The 'Race' mounts from RSG. Terrible finish on them. Sharp edges and crooked holes. The work well, but if thats the product they turn out im starting to rethink my plan to run one of their roll bars.
I ended up wet and dry sanding these ones back to remove all the sharp edges and gave them a coat of paint. Also replaced the OEM bolts with some dome head allen key bolts.
I had every intention of putting all the interior back on, but i needed somewhere to mount my extinguisher and i didnt want to place it on the floor so i placed it here. Just as easy to reach from the drivers seat.
Super grainie photo but i made up to carbon block off plates to cover the holes from the headlight washers and roof switch.
After the install i went and got the RS3's fitted and tested for wind leaks, but as i mentioned before. Nothing.
I have been friends with Rory from downshiftaus for a fair few years now so i dropped into their end of year meet to help out on the canteen. Sadly i didnt get to leave there to have a walk around. I seen a few S2000's roll in which would have been nice to see like duy's and his cousins and if i can recall i think there was even one there with a Amuse GT1 kit, would love to think it were genuine!
My good friend Alex and his Imported eg something. Not sure on the number. Now has a JHH built B20 and idles like a 13B, its pretty cool.
Well next trip home will be only for a few hours as im going to Japan again. This time round im hoping to head to ASM when im in Tokyo and re visit Js in Osaka so when i return from that i will post up what i found.
