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flanders NFR AP1 build

 
Old 03-10-2016, 11:41 PM
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Default flanders NFR AP1 build

Hi and welcome everybody.
I got this car late summer of 2013 and I've been constantly doing some mods and improvements since then.
I've got a long a build thread on another local forum but I thought it would be nice to have it documented here as well.
So from the beginning

Newly bought on a lovely Swedish summer evening.



There were some mods done by previous owner and one of the bad ones was the intake



So I got me a CT intake instead



It felt like it did pretty good gains and my logs seemed to agree



Steering wheel was a really worn out Momo so that was also changed to a 350mm Personal neo grinta.
It already had a Swedish made SnapOff hub/quick connect and that obviously stayed.


Another pic with a glimpse of the new carpets


Also changed some of the bulbs for LED.
Before and after




Some various parts from the US, did the shifter regrease and changed out my broken white plastic tab for the gaiter.


And mounted this nice little tray.



One of the most important mods done was depinning the speed signal for the top up/down.
The top up/down still need the e-brake engaged at one click work so feels pretty safe.

Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:11 AM
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Nice big package arrived from Evasive


With some exhaust parts





Invidia test pipe with cel fix, looks like it actually is a mini catalyst inside.


This was a bit disappointing but I guess not a big deal, I ended up just pulling it off completely and put it on the wall in my garage.



Pulled out 3,2kg of air pump crap


and replaced it with this resistor


A bit more room in there now


In the engine compartment I made a block off plate for the valve.
Used the gasket as template but I made it a bit too exact on my first try lol, end result is in the bottom.


Installed



I got a horn over from the CT intake install and swapped that with the ugly looking one in the front.



Painted the AC drier bracket and found a nice fitting plastic sleeve that slid right over it.


Looks a bit more discrete in there now

Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 01:17 AM.
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:21 AM
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Looking good so far. Good job!

In for updates
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:26 AM
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Got some stuff to keep engine a bit cooler.
Dei wrap


Hondata intake manifold gasket


Before install I did some thermal imaging to see how much difference it might make.
This was done after 10min idle with hood closed, temps are not 100% since different surfaces and colors have different emission values.
I put some black electrical tape on the manifold to make the reading more accurate.
Kind of hard to do that on the the header and those values are probably way off.
Temps are in Celsius.








Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 01:22 AM.
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:44 AM
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Removing the intake manifold was a real pain but I found this guide that helped a lot Installing an Intake Manifold Insulator/Spacer


Time to clean up the throttle body


Put some smaller countersunk screws for a tiny bit of better flow.
OEM on the left



Pulled out my Toda header as well


Stretch, pull and wrap until your hands are numb


A lot more work than I thought but the result looks pretty nice



Cleaned out intake manifold and the "upgraded" TB


Old coolant fluid out


New coolant and some deionized water for flushing


Engine block coolant drain, got pretty wet under there when that was removed


After some very smoky (header wrap) bleeding I think I got most of the air out from the coolant system

Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:50 AM
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Result were about 20 degrees C (33F) lower temps even though I let it idle for 10 more minutes

Before 54C/130F


After 36C/97F


Header looked really weird in the camera so no results there.

Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 01:34 AM.
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:12 AM
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Stock exhaust off


Also got this single exhaust cap from HeeltoeAuto.
Pic from first try with the included tape was a complete fail, it almost fell off on it's own.


With some new and better tape and some help it went on and stayed on


This bracket sits behind the license frame plate and pulls it to the bumper, really helped to release it so that the top edge of the cap could slide under.
It looked like shit so it was completely removed, sandblasted and painted.


Made some new exhaust mount rubbers



Tail pipe didn't sit very well on first try


So I made this rubber mount


and installed it like this


I a bit close up top but looking much better


Two more shots



Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:36 AM
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Keep up the good work.....
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:47 AM
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Thanks, there is lots more to come
While working under the car I decided I really had to do something about the rear cross beam bar that the previous owner had installed.
This is what it looked like, I call it the blood stick.


I made this one first but it looked a bit weak.


So with some help from my sock monkey this was made instead


60x10mm is hopefully enough


Installed

Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 01:45 AM.
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Old 03-11-2016, 02:03 AM
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Next I got a Greddy Emanage Ultimate from a fellow s2ki member.


It came with a wideband which I installed in an available bung on my Toda header


Put the electronic box for the o2 inside here


The cables were of course a bit to short so had them lengthened




The PnP harness to the stock ecu was a super tight fit but with the ecu turned 90 degrees it was possible get it all fitted behind the stock plastic panel


I put the calibration button and blinky led for the wideband here


and the AFR display


At first I put the Greddy box behind the seat


it limited sliding the seat all back though so I moved it over here instead

Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 01:53 AM.
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