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Wetsanding the orange-peel, blend-areas/zones and any overspray and nibs, with 2000 grit sandpaper.
I still had half a bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, but it wasn't strong enough to remove the 2000 grit marks and scratches. So, I bought some tried-and-true (especially for post-wetsanding) M105. M105 is magical and took out the 2000grit marks easily...into a mirror-like shine!
Gonna finish the rest tomorrow, just the rear bumper left.
Not bad for ol' rattle-cans and spray-cans... eh?? I am very satisfied with the results. And, I didn't even follow up the M105 yet (like you really should.. but I'm too tired, since I did it by hand). So, the M105 here was actually an "LSP", lol (last step product). I still have half a bottle of Ultimate Polish leftover... so I will follow-up the M105 with the Ultimate Polish another day, when I have more energy.
Overall, I am very very impressed with Spraymax 2K Clearcoat's smooth application/spray-flow and its' ability to be wetsanding and polished/buffed out. It goes on really nicely and evenly. Also, really love the M105 ability to remove wetsanding marks and finishes up like a mirror.
Some things I didn't like - ERA paint is mixed waaay too thin and drips waaay too easily, also sometimes it sprays nasty splatters/spits/drips out of the can (another guy on YT had the exact same problem with ERA spray paint cans), and too little paint inside the can. I ran out of white paint; so there's a few areas where repairs/paint is kinda "translucent" and you can kinda see through it into the black rubber/bumper (yeah, I shoulda used more primer). But, luckily, those areas are very minor and hardly noticeable, and I got lucky with oookay coverage right when the can ran out (wish I had a tad more white paint though). At least it is a very good color match!
Also, the 3M Bumper Repair/Filler really needs overnight to be sand'able. The instructions say 30min before sanding; but I found (even after 3-4 hours) the filler and edges still peel, roll, etc. and is still too soft. Overnight though, it didn't have that problem anymore and was much better at sanding. I'd probably try SEM Bumper Bite next time though - much much much more product/volume for the money! (3M stuff was like $10-15 for only 10mL!!! lol... I guess it's really meant to be used in super small amounts, like for glue type repairs, cracks, holes...and not really as a high-volume "filler"). SEM is a lot more pro-grade than the consumer stuff you get at PepBoys/Autozone too; so it should be better for this kinda stuff. Aside from Bumper Bite, SEM also makes a Bumper/Plastic-Repair epoxy, very similar to the 3M Bumper-Repair Kit stuff (also, it is available in much bigger tubes than 10ml too).
I still have to remove the swirl marks from the M105 (that's some coarse stuff... but at least it removed the wetsanding marks/dullness very very well).
Test Spot - Ultimate Polish was too weak to remove the M105 swirls (it's commonly supposed to be followed up with M205). But, my leftover Ultimate Compound totally removed the M105 swirls marks. So, I will use Ultimate Compound soon.
So... for me (for Spraymax 2K Glamour Clear-Coat), these refinishing stages/steps worked very well:
2000 grit wetsanding > M105 > Ultimate Compound > optional, whatever milder polish you desire (Ultimate Polish or M205)
If anyone is interested in doing this, or how I did it... here's my tips and some tutorial vids that explain it in great detail...
Never spray directly over the masking tape/lines… that’ll leave a “hard edge”.
I “blended” and faded the paint and clearcoat onto the old paint/clearcoat.
Then, I melted those “dry”/overspray blend-zones/areas with the “spot blender”.
Also, before spraying any base-paint and clearcoat, the old clearcoat was wetsanded with 2500 grit (3000 grit works too) during the primer-sanding stage/step, for better soak-ability of the spot-blender and new clear-coat.
Here you go.. these vids explain it in great detail…
04-02-2018, 10:53 PM
