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I have been into trucks for so long that I realized that I needed some thrill in my life. It has been 10+ years since owning a manual transmission and, after waiting 1.5years for Magnuson to release a SC for my Tundra, I decided it was time to shift my focus to something else.
Current project:
Build roll bar
Carbon fiber
New side markers (on the back burner)
Future plans:
Joying 8.8 Inch Single Din stereo & rear camera
Depo tail lights
Replace the AP2V1 wheels (I may just paint them for now)
BBK
Swap Kraftwerks SC for SOS (or at least replace the cogged belt with the ribbed belt replacement)
Possibly Ford 8.8 3.73 Trac-Loc Diff swap (really just a spare in case I trash the stock diff and I already have it from my Datsun build)
I have CNC Plasma & Router tables as well as finger & tube benders so I look forward to modifying/building some parts myself. I have built some parts from fiberglass in the past and will attempt some CF resin infusion for some small parts at some point.
Last edited by InTheRough; 08-08-2022 at 01:30 PM.
I'm working on doing the first bit of maintenance.
Starter has been removed and ready for replacement. I picked up a Reman Denso starter but, after doing a bench test, I found that it had issues right out of the box. I have another on order. I plan on removing the CDV, swapping the clutch set and flywheel. Once I have everything buttoned up, I will be doing a valve adjustment, oil change, and Billman TCT some time late Nov.
Last edited by InTheRough; 11-04-2021 at 04:58 PM.
Mind showing or explaining on how you hung the hardtop from the wall?
Originally Posted by Luder94
Just realized you're a Tundra guy. Tundras and S2Ks go together nicely.
Haha Yeah! I am on Tundras.com and part of the FB group 'PNW Tundras'. I've been working on building a 2020 Supercharged Overland Crewmax but, as I mentioned in the OP, Magnuson has been sandbagging the SC for the 2020 so I used that money for the SC S2000 instead. I love the Kings & billet UCA that I installed but, had I known that I was getting the S2K, I would have used that money on the car.
I'm sure that this isn't the best option for mounting but I really needed to get the top off the car to get working on it. I originally set the top on two saw horses spaced with a furniture blanket but my 2yo son rans past it almost daily and I didn't want him to knock it off so I was in a bit of a rush to get it moved. I used these
. Making sure I hit the studs, I used two - along with the screws pictured - to mount them approximately 34" apart. The two hooks grab the primary support bar at the bottom of the rear window; it doesn't touch the window at all. I may reconsider the mounting application but I didn't want to mount it in a way that touched the seals in any way. If I do keep this mounting option, I do plan on applying some sort of soft barrier between the drywall and where the top touches.
Originally Posted by rush2redline
Gorgeous car and clean garage set up.
Thanks! Both are a work in progress. I am glad to be getting some work done on the S2K. I couldn't even walk through the garage without stepping on something a month ago.
Last edited by InTheRough; 11-05-2021 at 09:51 AM.
Well that took longer than expected... It is hard to get something like this done when I only have about an hour or two of free-time on an average day.
I really had a hard time getting the subframe and transmission low enough with the supercharger in place. Being new to S2k & boost, I didn't feel comfortable removing the supercharger to accomplish this task so I made due with the space that I had but it was a PITA. I hope I don't have to do that again for some time or I will have to learn to be comfortable removing the SC. Everything went relatively smoothly with the exception of the release bearing falling back into the pressure plate while I was trying to align the bellhousing. I didn't noticed until I had everything snugged and tested the clutch slave functionality. I found the issue as I heard a 'click' sound when the clutch was fully depressed. The 'click' was the fingers of the pressure plate rubbing on the small lip - or flange - that was supposed to sit outside of the fingers. After removing the bellhousing and realigned the release bearing everything went back together nicely.
In this stage of maintenance I completed: (Mileage - 54,038)
Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) Delete
Competition Ultra Lightweight Flywheel (2-669-STU)
Competition Stage 4 6-puck sprung ceramic clutch and pressure plate (8023-1620)
OEM Pilot & release bearings (91006-PCX-008 & 22810-PCY-003)
Shift lever rebuild (54111-S2A-003 & 54110-S2A-003) & re-grease (08798-9002)
Denso Reman Starter replacement (280-0316)
Flywheel Comparison w/ OEM pilot bearings: (185.375oz [old] vs 139.5oz [new] = 45.875oz less [2lb 13.875oz])
I read a lot of discussions regarding Loctite on the flywheel and pressure plate. I hope I don't regret the decision but I did end up using Loctite 2422 High Temp (650f) Medium blue. I used this because nearly all of the references of 'why not to use Loctite' only mentioned the fact that the trans temp will make Loctite gummy while this should hold up to the heat.
I just ordered a Billman TCT. Once that is received, I plan on doing an oil change, valve adjustment, and TCT replacement.
Last edited by InTheRough; 12-03-2021 at 03:03 PM.
I obviously don't have a need for this just yet but I couldn't pass up this authentic J's Racing wing that popped up locally. I plan on picking up a trunk off of a parts car or CF trunk before mounting it. I will have to figure out what to do about the S2K specific trunk plates; it didn't come with it.
I understand the stands need to be tall for track functionality but I'd like to make a set of low stands for street use; like what is pictured below.
10-15-2021, 12:53 PM
InTheRough's AP2 Build
