nissan diff in my s2000
01-25-2013, 05:18 AM
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nissan diff in my s2000
Hi, This is probably my first post but i have been a member for a few years, bought my S about 4-5 years ago, thought I seem to be missing some fotos.
Heres a quick introduction
The car came with sway bars, d2 coilovers, flared wheel arches, large crappy wheels and a well worn driveline. But it was the fastest one I tested and the engine was quite healthy.
I know the in view at this time is to frown at people who 'hoon', and if thats your opinion, your entitled to one, i on the other hand enjoy throwing the car sideways regularly, if i didnt i wouldnt be buying a perfectly balanced sportscar. so the car is not babied, and as a result of the weak standard driveline, it breaks down regluarly.
The first to go was the gearbox 'got jammed in 1st gear', a rebuild with 4 syncros and a few other small parts set me back $3600.
Next was the c/v joints, its well known K/F series C/Vs are rubbish, as well as most late model cars. They develop a constant vibrating noise under load as soon as the car is lowered and the inner hubs develop pits. there is no way around this when using factory parts, buying a spacer can help you band-aid the problem for another 10-15thou kms but it will come back.
not long after the c/v joints pitted, the diff exploded, so rather than putting weak crap back in and praying it holds i opted for an R33 skyline rear. Im currently run a R33 gts rear diff, 2 long end c/v joints and R33 hubs. from research i did on R33 rear ends the GTS turbo rear has a 3.9 final drive, same as a factory s2000, and they are known to have no trouble with upto 700hp in factory spec, since im aiming for around 500hp, its just the right part for the application, several of my friends have R33s and they are all lowered and dont suffer from pitting, They also have several different clutches inc brass button and twin plates.
The hubs had to be machined down for the s2000 rotors to sit on them, the calipers were spaces out 8mm to sit correctly with the wider hubs. A sleeve was made so the smaller R33 hubs would fit on the s2000 wheel bearings, as well as a spacer to make up for thinner s2000 bearings. A small collar was made for the abs sensor ring to sit on. It all seems simple enough but it took weeks to deign and make.
Strangely enough the long end r33 c/v is just the rite length to sit were the short s2000 c/v would go, so you could have a C/V shaft made for just 1 side, you want to extend the short C/V joint exactly 4 inches. It will sit about 4mm further in but its designed to move so dont worry, and since the car will be lowered the c/v joint will slide out to about were it would naturally sit anyway. I opted for another long end cv with a 2 inch aluminium spacer and it has not caused me any problems so far.
The brackets are bright steel, designed to make use of the original aluminium brackets to save cost and weight. i also cut off the prop shaft flange from the broken s2k diff and bolted and then welded it to the R33 diff. Another diff i did later i simply drilled/tapped the 6 bold pattern out on the R33 flange, i also milled the step into the R33 flange to match the factory S prop shaft.
Here is a fun fact, a 2001 c-class Mercedes has the same prop shaft as the s2k, its identical inside out.
About 3000km after the install i heard clicking from the back, got home to jack the car and found the factory aluminium diff bracket wasnt as strong when used in reverse and snapped from the abuse. I replaced it with a solid steel part.
About 10 000kms later the engine felt sluggish and sounded like at least one cylinder had low compression. I threw in the F20C sitting in my garage for the past few months, its sleeved, ferra valves, some pistons, rods, retainer, some kind of valve-springs and some arp and acl bits, I dont remember the parts. Compression is around 10 to 1, its also blueprinted, machined balanced ect ect. Since my aim is 500rwhp the only clutch i could use without getting a rattly twin plate is a brass button.. after lots of research i opted for an ACT, and later plan to throw the box out and replace it with a more solid unit and twin-plate clutch
needless to say the clutch is a pain in traffic, especially in an incline and after about 1000km of brass button driving the gearbox died again. About 30 000 since the last complete rebuild. I figured since the gearbox is out I mite as well clean up the engine bay. So the car is still in the garage and the gearbox has some gouges in its bearings form what iv seen so far.
A few other little mods here and there.. ap2 tail lights, some good sound gear, red dash and instruments, backlit interior door handles.
I noticed driving over 100kmph the cars nose lifts and there is little traction on the front wheels for turning. so im hoping to find an amuse front bar or mod the standard bar to improve the downforce sometime soon
Heres a quick introduction
The car came with sway bars, d2 coilovers, flared wheel arches, large crappy wheels and a well worn driveline. But it was the fastest one I tested and the engine was quite healthy.
I know the in view at this time is to frown at people who 'hoon', and if thats your opinion, your entitled to one, i on the other hand enjoy throwing the car sideways regularly, if i didnt i wouldnt be buying a perfectly balanced sportscar. so the car is not babied, and as a result of the weak standard driveline, it breaks down regluarly.
The first to go was the gearbox 'got jammed in 1st gear', a rebuild with 4 syncros and a few other small parts set me back $3600.
Next was the c/v joints, its well known K/F series C/Vs are rubbish, as well as most late model cars. They develop a constant vibrating noise under load as soon as the car is lowered and the inner hubs develop pits. there is no way around this when using factory parts, buying a spacer can help you band-aid the problem for another 10-15thou kms but it will come back.
not long after the c/v joints pitted, the diff exploded, so rather than putting weak crap back in and praying it holds i opted for an R33 skyline rear. Im currently run a R33 gts rear diff, 2 long end c/v joints and R33 hubs. from research i did on R33 rear ends the GTS turbo rear has a 3.9 final drive, same as a factory s2000, and they are known to have no trouble with upto 700hp in factory spec, since im aiming for around 500hp, its just the right part for the application, several of my friends have R33s and they are all lowered and dont suffer from pitting, They also have several different clutches inc brass button and twin plates.
The hubs had to be machined down for the s2000 rotors to sit on them, the calipers were spaces out 8mm to sit correctly with the wider hubs. A sleeve was made so the smaller R33 hubs would fit on the s2000 wheel bearings, as well as a spacer to make up for thinner s2000 bearings. A small collar was made for the abs sensor ring to sit on. It all seems simple enough but it took weeks to deign and make.
Strangely enough the long end r33 c/v is just the rite length to sit were the short s2000 c/v would go, so you could have a C/V shaft made for just 1 side, you want to extend the short C/V joint exactly 4 inches. It will sit about 4mm further in but its designed to move so dont worry, and since the car will be lowered the c/v joint will slide out to about were it would naturally sit anyway. I opted for another long end cv with a 2 inch aluminium spacer and it has not caused me any problems so far.
The brackets are bright steel, designed to make use of the original aluminium brackets to save cost and weight. i also cut off the prop shaft flange from the broken s2k diff and bolted and then welded it to the R33 diff. Another diff i did later i simply drilled/tapped the 6 bold pattern out on the R33 flange, i also milled the step into the R33 flange to match the factory S prop shaft.
Here is a fun fact, a 2001 c-class Mercedes has the same prop shaft as the s2k, its identical inside out.
About 3000km after the install i heard clicking from the back, got home to jack the car and found the factory aluminium diff bracket wasnt as strong when used in reverse and snapped from the abuse. I replaced it with a solid steel part.
About 10 000kms later the engine felt sluggish and sounded like at least one cylinder had low compression. I threw in the F20C sitting in my garage for the past few months, its sleeved, ferra valves, some pistons, rods, retainer, some kind of valve-springs and some arp and acl bits, I dont remember the parts. Compression is around 10 to 1, its also blueprinted, machined balanced ect ect. Since my aim is 500rwhp the only clutch i could use without getting a rattly twin plate is a brass button.. after lots of research i opted for an ACT, and later plan to throw the box out and replace it with a more solid unit and twin-plate clutch
needless to say the clutch is a pain in traffic, especially in an incline and after about 1000km of brass button driving the gearbox died again. About 30 000 since the last complete rebuild. I figured since the gearbox is out I mite as well clean up the engine bay. So the car is still in the garage and the gearbox has some gouges in its bearings form what iv seen so far.
A few other little mods here and there.. ap2 tail lights, some good sound gear, red dash and instruments, backlit interior door handles.
I noticed driving over 100kmph the cars nose lifts and there is little traction on the front wheels for turning. so im hoping to find an amuse front bar or mod the standard bar to improve the downforce sometime soon
02-16-2013, 04:07 AM
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some more work fotos. The drivetrain had a knocking sound and after replacing the diff and prop shaft it turned out to be a bearing in the gearbox, most likely from the guy rebuilding my gearbox not shimming the bearing correctly the last time. since the gearbox was coming out again i decided to pull the engine too and spray the engine bay, my neighbor convinced me to weld some seams, shave most of it and tuck the wires. It will probably go thru more stages of the wire tuck. the battery in the boot is a bike battery rated at 300cca RC45 about the same as a cheap stock battery enjoy..
02-20-2013, 05:44 AM
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Im sure there are a lot of people that cares, but doesn't write that often. I really like what you have done so far and It would be nice if you could keep us updated 
