sirbikealot7

Right on, I'm happy with mine, don't forget to weld an NPT port in the pan for oil temp while you have it off.

StedFast

I plan on tapping the oil pan too, for a turbo return... Just in case I go that route in the future. Good point on the oil temp though!

StedFast

It was time to think about the fuel system. I was originally going to do a fuel safe, I even ordered one. The thought of it being close to the rear bumper made me worried about being rear ended. He is what I was planning on doing:


I then decided to add a Aeromotive Phantom fuel pump setup to the original fuel tank. I first cleaned the inside of the tank with some POR-15 metal prep. For the tank being 45 years old, it was in great shape. I then went to work cutting and altering the setup for my application.




I had a few extra moments to cleanup some of the wiring. Here is the aftermath:


To do before the engine goes back in:
1)pressure wash the whole car inside and out
2)run the fuel lines

Once that is completed, I'll install the pan insert. Then the motor and tranny go back in!

StedFast

Today I tackled the Kpro pre install. Everything went well, except for the exhaust CAM trigger wheel. I stripped the 8mm bolt. I knew it was reverse thread (from everything I've read) and I still stripped it. I'm guessing I need to remove the cam... But how do I get off the stripped bolt?

StedFast

Well that was a chore. I guess my ace hardware allen/hex sockets were not up to snuff... New bolt is ordered and should be here on Wednesday.

d1000rr

great build man... i'm jealous

StedFast

Thanks! I need to get this bolt in-house, and have the oil plate welded in. And then put humpty dumpty back together again. I hope my front suspension comes in this week. I'd like to roll the car back outside to power wash everything inside and out and prep for lizardskin and a small coat of bedliner around my feet.

blixhavn

cool build man
a word of advice, don't do the turbo drain in the oil pan, it'll always be in oil level and will not drain properly. Mine always had a slow dripping leak in the garage too so I moved it to the timing cover. Alternatively you could use the crank girdle if you want it on the side.

StedFast

Thanks for the words of wisdom. I just dropped the pan off at my welder. Should have it back tomorrow and the motor buttoned up and back in this weekend. I hope to have it running in 2-3 weeks.

StedFast

Well my new bolt finally showed up, and I was able to get the tray welded to oil pan.



Oil pan is back on, and the exhaust cam trigger wheel is installed. Tomorrow I will install the new clutch and resurfaced flywheel and put the heart back in the beast.