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Project Hondatsun (F20C Swapped Datsun 510)

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Old 12-02-2016, 08:42 PM   #21
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To do

1) Install the motor back into the car
2) Install fuel tank and run AN braided lines to the motor
3) Wire up the ARC touch panel (which is very slick and has built in fuses/relays for each switch):

4) Head to church to light a candle
4.1) Fire in the hole!
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Old 12-03-2016, 05:40 PM   #22
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All that work for these three things:


I also cut the front radiator support out (will have it so I can bolt it back in) to allow the motor/tranny to go in/out as one unit. The motor/tranny practically fell into the car!


And the heart is back in the beast and ready for Kpro:


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Old 12-07-2016, 09:15 AM   #23
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So I'm looking for opinions. I have just about everything needed to put humpty-dumpty back together again, except for seats. I don't want to spend a fortune and think I have it narrowed down to two seats:

Ultrashield:


BiMarco:





Both are roughly $400 per seat, both have safety certs, but have gotten good reviews... Thoughts?
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Old 12-07-2016, 09:18 AM   #24
 
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I like the looks of the Bimarco, but the Ultrashield covers look like they are easier to replace when they get worn/faded.
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Old 12-07-2016, 11:46 AM   #25
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I have an HPDE Miata in my shop that has a Ultrashield aluminum seat. Unless you're a big ass dude, or you actually like uncomfortable seats, stay the HELL away from them.

As far as relatively affordable seats go, I really like my Momo Supercup, and although it's $600-ish I absolutely think it's worth every penny, and then some. Probably the most comfortable bucket seat I've almsat in, and I've tried most of them.
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:48 PM   #26
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I am a 34 waist and 200lbs. I've sat in an Ultrashield for a few minutes and didn't find it that bad. I know a few minutes doesn't mean much... The BiMarco's are FIA certified and get great reviews in Europe for being great entry level seats. They are made in Poland and shipping takes a little longer than normal. I might be leaning that way.
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Old 12-14-2016, 07:35 AM   #27
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I'm getting ready to install the dash and ECU this weekend. I know I need to pull some wires from connector C101. I want to put these pictures here for future use, as well as to help anyone else who is trying to do this swap:







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Old 12-14-2016, 08:05 AM   #28
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These are the pins from C101 that need to be wired:

1- ignition system BLK/YEL +12v - connect to the ignition key
3- starter motor -BLK/WHT- +12v through starter motor switch
4- YEL/BLK +12v from ignition switch- power supply to ECM
5- BLK/YEL +12v lambda sensor - connect to ignition key
7- WHT/BLU - alternator light(on the dashboard) required to get charge!
8- BLU/WHT - VSS sensor connected probably to the speedo gauge - must loop back to ecu A9
10- WHT/RED +12v ECM/ immobilizer light - hot at all times
14 - BLK- ground
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Old 12-16-2016, 08:24 AM   #29
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Started working on the fuel lines last night. I plan to rivnut everything in place, as I like it a lot more than screws.



For the feed line I'm going with 8AN lines, and the return will be 6AN lines (should give me plenty of fuel for future boost needs). All hoses and fittings are from Vibrant.



I also found these things. They are awesome for installing fittings. No more bloody fingertips!:



Last but no least I started to do a layout of the electronics board. It will be minimal and will hosue Kpro, fuse/relay panel, two additional relays for turns and fan, and a terminal strip. This will be mounted to a piece of carbon fiber.



Fuel lines should be done this weekend minus two stupid fittings I forgot, which I just ordered this morning.
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Old 12-20-2016, 06:58 PM   #30
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Goodies came in the mail today

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