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Oh man, that diff cover is tits! Let us know how the 4.44 is with the f22, I'm on the fence about picking one up, I just need a push in the right direction
Oh man, that diff cover is tits! Let us know how the 4.44 is with the f22, I'm on the fence about picking one up, I just need a push in the right direction
My friend Doug (DougEFresh) has the 4.44 FD in his AP2 and absolutely loves it. It's what led me to get the different gear, driving with him around the Dragon. His car would accelerate hard as shit out of every corner. I'm really excited to try it out.
Ricky offered me some coaching this past weekend. Anyone interested in his "Don't drive like a dick head" instructional course act now. Seats are filling fast!
ricky offered me some coaching this past weekend. Anyone interested in his "don't drive like a dick head" instructional course act now. Seats are filling fast! https://youtu.be/oakwf9if94q
Alright folks, time for one big, long, hard update.
As I'm sure more than a few of you know, the used F20C was installed, hooked up, fired up, and...... found to have rod knock. This was more of a gut-punch to me than blowing the original motor. I had spend multiple thousands of dollars on a motor, driven 32 hours straight to retrieve it, spent two weekends swapping everything out, only to have my efforts be for, essentially, naught. It was my absolute worst nightmare come true. I was gutted.
I knew that this time, I couldn't compromise, and that I needed to get exactly what I wanted. I searched all over the forums, through social media, even craigslist and ebay looking for a suitable motor. I toyed with the idea of buying a junkyard motor with warranty, or even throwing my budget out the window and doing a K or J swap. After shopping around, I eventually found what I was originally looking for: a low-mileage, healthy F22C longblock. It was being sold by wizards at Inline Pro as a used core exchange motor. I ended up getting a fantastic deal on it, and had it completely pulled apart, inspected, cleaned, and re-built by Inline Pro to their "Stage 0" specification. This included the following work:
Hot tank, soda blast, disassemble, inspect entire head and bottom end assembly.
Performance valve job done to the head, including grinding valves, bronze exhaust guides,guide seals, resurface deck, blueprint, and assembly.
Light FRM hone, resurface deck, and micropolish crankshaft.
Assemble bottom end with ACL race bearings, FRM piston ringset, all new seals and gaskets.
Balance, blueprint, and assembly done in-house at Inlinepro.
Brand new OEM long block gasket set including head gasket.
Installed brand new Inline Pro TCT.
Full long block assembly.
Valve lash set by Inline Pro.
From the moment I expressed interest in purchasing their motor, to the moment the motor arrived at my door, the customer service was nothing short of exceptional on the part of Inline Pro. There are those that can build you a motor for less, but I would happily give my money to a shop like Inline Pro again because I KNOW I'm buying the absolute best. They were patient with me, and explained everything they were doing to my new motor in excruciating detail. Thanks again, guys!
Here are a couple photos from when the motor was apart and being built:
It took about a month to get the motor to me after I ordered it, with a ton of photos and correspondence throughout the entire process. Once it arrived, and I put it on the stand next to the car, I knew then that this car was going to end up being better in every single way, and that I could rest easy as, really, the hard part of learning from my mistakes was over.
That's all for today. I'll continue with my updates later. Thanks for stopping by!
There's just something about seeing an engine put together with fine precision that does it for me.
Agreed. Getting the photos throughout the build was immensely satisfying.
Originally Posted by s2000ellier
the only thing better is doing it yourself
Lol, I wish I had the time and the confidence to try it on my own. At this point, what I want more than anything is peace of mind, and I wouldn't have that with a motor that I put together lol.
Originally Posted by fernando.
That must've been very disheartening. Glad you were able to get something going with Inline Pro, can't wait to see it all in the car.
Thanks Fernando. The car is all back together and running, but I've run into yet another hiccup with the clutch now. Oh well lol.
Very cool and good to hear you had a good experience with IP. They're right down the street from me so I'll have to consider this option should I need a new motor down the road. I'm tempted to give it a shot rebuilding a short block myself if/when the time comes, but the FRM lining has me a little concerned.
Do you know what the difference between boring/honing is on an F20/F22 block vs non-FRM sleeves? Is the FRM lining pretty thin? I know w/ the non-frm linings you can just do a slight overbore on the sleeves to clean them up and a nice hone, and some overbore pistons and it's good to go. Do you just do a hone to clean up the bores a little with the FRM lining but no overbore? I haven't looked into it but was curious since you've gone down this route. I'd appreciate any info you could share. Thanks!
Good to hear you're getting your car back on the road! With junkyard engines that's always a big worry of mine as well. Nice to see you didn't get too disheartened and got your car fixed right!
03-03-2017, 05:28 AM
