This is my second S2000, I had an 03 back in 2009 which I had to get rid of because I moved out of the country for a couple years. After moving back to the states my uncle sold me his NC1 for super cheap and I held onto that for about 5 years. The chassis of the NC1 never really spoke to me and the engine has about as much character as a paper bag. I sold the NC1 and picked up a lowish mileage 07 Laguna Blue S2000 with the intention of doing an OEM+ build with a track day maybe once a year. I should have known myself better because it has now transitioned to a track build

Current Mods:
Suspension/Chassis/Brakes/Wheels:
FPSPort Ohlin DFV
FPSport Ohlin DFV with 13k/13k
FPSpec valved FPSport Ohlin DFV 16k/16k
Js S2
Eibach Front Sway
Js Racing tie rod ends
Ikeya Formula front upper arms
Cusco spherical bearings to replace the compliance bushings
Karcepts solid rear sway bar
02-03, CR, AP2 rear sway bar depending on mood, track, and tires
Rigid Collars
ASM tower bar
ASM floor bar
Cusco rear subframe bar
TB Performance rear tower bar
-12mm engine mount brackets
Spoon engine, transmission, and diff mounts
Renegade front bumper bar
Renegade rear bumper bar
Spoon X brace
StopTech C43
StopTech C42
Urge rear Flow rotors
CR steering rack brace – front
17x9 + 49 TC105X
17x10 +55 SA72R
17x10 +44 TE37 SAGA S Plus
17x10 +50 Advan GT (street wheels)
Karcepts rear hubs
MSI extended studs
Front sway bar spacer
Anerexicpoodle adjustable sway bar end links

Engine:
J’s Racing snorkel for Type V bonnet
Urge Unicorn header w/heat shield
Modified stock header
60mm -> 70mm HFC
Fujitsubo Power Getter
Ballade ASM replica 70mm exhaust
T1R-EM 70mm single exhaust
Hondata
ASM catch can
ASM coolant overflow tank
Toda 60mm -> 70mm test pipe (track only)
Toda engine oil flow control orifice
K&N FPIK

Drivetrain:
Toda flywheel
OS Giken Spec S 1.5 LSD
4.3 Final drive
Solid distance collar
Reinforcement kit

Interior:
ASM hub
Momo Monte Carlo, 350mm, Alcantara
Momo MOD78, 320mm, Suede
NA2 NSX Type R replica horn button
NA1 NSX Type R horn button
Civic Type R shift knob
SOS NSX Type S replica shift knob
NA2 NSX Type R shift knob
NSX Type S shift knob
NA2 NSX Type R shift boot
Bride Vios III - Passenger
Bride FO rails - Passenger
Bride Xero CS - Driver
Bride LF seat rails - Driver
PCI seat rail
Zoom Monaco mirror
RSG single diagonal roll bar
K1 Laps dry carbon fuel pump cover

Exterior:
Custom splitter
Racebred spats
Racebred splitter diffuser tunnels
9Lives endplates
Custom endplates
Devsport splitter brackets
VIS Mugen Style Hood
RSG double carbon Mugen style hardtop
Honda hardtop window seals
Voltex Type 2, 275mm wing stands, gurney flap
Voltex Type C End Plates
K1 Labs spoiler
Custom side skirts with Racebred spats
Craftsquare mirrors
Js Racing front fenders


My first S2000


When I first picked up my current S2000


First thing I did was transfer my Bride Vios III over from my Miata and get a set of FPSport Ohlin DFVs.


I picked up some things like the ASM front tower bar that I always wanted but couldn't afford



Then I picked up a set of TC105Xs


I figured since I have space for a BBK might as well use it, plus I really wanted the weight loss the C43 kit provides


Here is where it all went wrong...my first track day with this car. I used to track a lot in my early 20s and after this day I knew I was done fooling myself with this OEM+ nonsense


I did a couple of track days with no aero but I knew I wanted aero again so I started to design a front splitter


I picked up a used Voltex Type 2 from my friend


Obligatory standing on splitter pic


back out there


Car was starting to feel good but the suspension was too soft and I really wasn't happy with the valving, as a quick band aide I put some 13kg spring on my FPSports. They didn't have rears in stock with helpers so I went with a single longer spring and switched after the next track day to a helper setup


My wife was now pregnant and she said I could have one last track day before the baby and then I'd have to stop for a couple years...I was determined to hit sub 2 before having to take a break
Got rid of my TC105X for some 17x10 SA72Rs, that extra inch of width makes a huge difference


On my last track day I was able finally able to hit sub 2!


Now that the baby is here I've been focusing on building the car for when I'm able to go back out. New goal sub 1:55


My friend sold his S2000 and gave me his VIS Mugen style hood



Removed my soft top and replaced it with a hardtop




Picked up an OS Giken and 4.3 final drive



Got a J's snorkel for Type V hood to make use of the hood bump



I spoke to Patrick at Urge and convinced him to release his Unicorn header with heatshield brackets


Revalved my FPSports to FPspec valving for 16k/16k springs and got full floating top hats. The valving is way better now, I don't need to run at full stiff or close to full stiff anymore. On the old valving, even with the standard springs, I had to run the dampers 2 or 3 clicks from full stiff in order to get the rebound to a point where the rear didn't feel floaty.



Got Craftsquare mirrors


Made some side skirts




Finally got a set of Volks. 17x10 +44 TE37 SAGA S Plus


Added a K1 Labs rear spoiler




I've seen too many pics of cars with aftermarket ball joints and snapped control arms, so I got a set of Ikeya Formula control arms and removed my Js S2.
The control arms are wider than stock and my wheels would rub at full lock so I got some steering rack limiters from Ford to prevent that from happening



At the same time I removed my lower control arms to replace the worn compliance bushings with Cusco Sphericals

 

Solid

 

Got my front lower arms back from my friend, he pressed in the Cusco bearings for me.

 

Very nice. Glad to see they're sealed too.

 

During one of my previous track days I could smell coolant after my session, it turned out the radiator overflow tank cap had split. I ended up replacing just the cap as the tank looked okay and I was saving for various other things.
The other week I took a look at my overflow tank and the corner that tends to fail first was looking worse so I decided to finally order an overflow tank. I went with ASM because I like how easy it is to check the level, I think it looks nice, and it uses the OEM cap.
I've seen and read about other tanks that use their own caps and have external vent holes leaking coolant through their vent holes.
I could have gone with another OEM tank at a fraction of the cost but this is pretty and then Yen is really weak right now.



You can see the plastic deteriorating and a stress mark forming

 

Thanks for all the write ups. Love the build.

I was also in the market for a reservoir, curious to hear your experience with the ASM after some use.

 

Build is looking good, and your choice of parts is nice.

I associate ASM with high quality. Very strange to me that they didn't clean the HAZ off the weld. (The white area caused by the cleaning action of AC.) Actually, I don't recall seeing any welded parts being sold like that- even cheap stuff.

Here's a different pic of the same part. Looks like the HAZ is cleaned off. The ASM logo is missing, so maybe it was polished.

 

Found another pic here on s2ki.

The ASM label is still on, and you can see there is no HAZ on the weld.

 

ASM parts don't come with stickers but I have a sheet of ASM stickers that I applied.

The part was purchased direct from ASM. Maybe Succeed Sports (the company who makes this for ASM) didn't clean off the latest batch or I got one made on a Friday lol?

 

Well, doesn't make a bit of difference functionally.
If it bugs you, or you get bored, you can always polish it.

Keep up the good work, bro. Gives me some needed motivation to work on mine.