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There has been some serious problems with using Toda cams. I like that the BC cams are just like OEM just a little more duration and lift. Should work well with the bump in compression.
Yeah there were some core issues in some of the early batches before they switched to in-house billet cores, but people have broken BC stuff too.
If you’re sleeving and adding 25% displacement to your motor I would try to get some cams to best match the potential. A lot of the cam “information” on this site sucks.
Not trying to lecture too hard but I’ve talked to a few people about how the BC cams fared on their strokers/talked to some people who had information on how they were “developed” and let’s just say they are not the cams I would choose for any F series, but especially not a stroked one.
Yeah there were some core issues in some of the early batches before they switched to in-house billet cores, but people have broken BC stuff too.
If you’re sleeving and adding 25% displacement to your motor I would try to get some cams to best match the potential. A lot of the cam “information” on this site sucks.
Not trying to lecture too hard but I’ve talked to a few people about how the BC cams fared on their strokers/talked to some people who had information on how they were “developed” and let’s just say they are not the cams I would choose for any F series, but especially not a stroked one.
That interesting about the in house manufacturing with TODA, have any more info on that?
Picked up bunch of parts today. AP1 front bumper, all the trimming and grill. If you are wondering why i went to a AP1 front again, I want to run an Air Walker lip. Had one for 3 days (no fault of my own) on my first AP1. I have always wanted to run one again, also really nice AP1s that still look like AP1s are rare. So i wanted to switch that up a bit. Ultimate goal is a Voltex front. A few suspension bolts and other stuff. BYS driver seat rail, which I installed today. My favroite is the valve & spark plug cover
That interesting about the in house manufacturing with TODA, have any more info on that?
I don't have anything saved, but you can search around for their announcement from when they shifted to their current billet camshaft cores. I am pretty sure it was around 10 years ago or so. Also on their Japanese website where they list some of the machines they have on-site they list a cnc camshaft finisher. If you have ever held a Toda camshaft, it is far nicer than the typical overseas cast core you get in a Skunk2 tuner or BC cam.
Since you're going to have the valve cover off, I would definitely look into doing this mod to resolve oiling issues and smoking on hard right handers.
Since you're going to have the valve cover off, I would definitely look into doing this mod to resolve oiling issues and smoking on hard right handers.
Also, another cheap modification for fuel cutting out when below half-tank:
$50 and 45 minutes to install. Way cheaper and less complicated than a surge tank.
Great Product From RoadRacer.
Yea I am definitely doing those mods. I have the valve cover mod done on my Evo as well, gotta get that oil out of the baffle quick. I have a surge tank system in the Evo and its amazing. But the S2000 Tank setup is better and this works so i agree the $50 is the way to go LOL.
Been making small progress. Installed a few parts, ordered some more I ran into the biggest snag when I went to change the toe arm I had to cut the bolt out. The bolt itself was frozen unto the sleeve of the bushing. It prolonged the job days since I now have to wait for the parts to come in. Below are some pix of the process:
I wanted to install all the rear suspension parts, but as mentioned, toe arm bolts dont want to leave their home. Pictured are rear MCS coilovers with Karcepts top hats and Hyperco spring, Buddy Club RCA ball joints, and EVS toe arms.
I found a good deal on all four diff bushings, used but in good condition. Saved some money on this expensive project. There was only one bolt in the original assembly that gave me trouble. Fortunately, the seller supplied me with the bolts. I applied anti seize to them.
Here is the difference between the OEM rear lower ball joint and the Buddy Club unit.
This has been a mod I have wanted to do for a while in my previous S2000's, I want that trans firm in its place. The Innovative Mounts transmission mount is a very nice piece.
I also rolled the rear quarter panels, a lot. Im not sure how much camber there is here. This is a 17x10 +45 with a 245-40-17 tire. Plenty of clearance. Hoping the front turn out as good.
Starting to work on the front side now as the rear is done (for now). I am going to swap the rear subframe for an AP2 unit eventually.
Removed most of the front suspension, I am not yet replacing the bushings on the LCA.
Work being done: Origin Fab UCA delrin bushings, Hardrace RCA lower ball joint, new endlinks, sway bar bushings and tie rod ends, replacing headlight lenses, reinforcing UCA mounts, install oil cooler and new front bumper setup.
When I removed the headlight I noticed the previous owner didnt correctly wire in the AP2 plugs, so i went ahead and properly crimped them, shrink wrapped and put new wire loom.
Heres a pic of one side with the delrin bushings installed. I opted to pin them to insure they wont move.
Had the inside of the UCA brackets welded. I am going to add a small bar between each bracket like the AP2 as well.
More parts! Yay and ouch LOL, so much money is being spent
Haltech pro plugin, HKS muffler, BC stage 2 cams and 68mm throttle body amongst other goodies.
I had to cut the bolt out. The bolt itself was frozen unto the sleeve of the bushing. It prolonged the job days since I now have to wait for the parts to come in. Below are some pix of the process:
