After fuel leak, pump won't prime
#1
After fuel leak, pump won't prime
Hi,
Yesterday I washed my car, then moved it into the shade to clean the interior.
I noticed the smell of fuel after I and a friend installed injectors, so I checked it out. Turned out to be injector 4, so I pulled everything:
FPR, the cap, rail, then injectors. I did disconnect the negative battery cable prior.
Anyway, put everything back in reverse order: injectors in, fuel rail on, then FPR, then the other thing to the right of it, and so on.
After all this, I reconnected the battery to test, but car wouldn't start. It cranks, won't start. I feel like it has to be electric, but I don't have enough experience to say for sure.
Anyway, I pulled everything again, this time I took a really close look at the injectors because there was still a leak. The o ring has a bit of a tear, so I ordered some more and will install tomorrow.
Any ideas? What else should I do?
For reference:
2000 S2000
AEM EMS2
ID1000s
Vortech V2
Walbro 255
Yesterday I washed my car, then moved it into the shade to clean the interior.
I noticed the smell of fuel after I and a friend installed injectors, so I checked it out. Turned out to be injector 4, so I pulled everything:
FPR, the cap, rail, then injectors. I did disconnect the negative battery cable prior.
Anyway, put everything back in reverse order: injectors in, fuel rail on, then FPR, then the other thing to the right of it, and so on.
After all this, I reconnected the battery to test, but car wouldn't start. It cranks, won't start. I feel like it has to be electric, but I don't have enough experience to say for sure.
Anyway, I pulled everything again, this time I took a really close look at the injectors because there was still a leak. The o ring has a bit of a tear, so I ordered some more and will install tomorrow.
Any ideas? What else should I do?
For reference:
2000 S2000
AEM EMS2
ID1000s
Vortech V2
Walbro 255
#2
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Bay Area, California
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check and see if the fuse in your footwell is still good. should be a 15amp fuse.
if not, check your engine bay fuse box to see if the PGM-FI fuse (also 15amp) is blown. <<< if this keeps blowing when you turn the key, that means something is shorting within your injector harness to the injector. learned this from personal experience.
hope this helps.
if not, check your engine bay fuse box to see if the PGM-FI fuse (also 15amp) is blown. <<< if this keeps blowing when you turn the key, that means something is shorting within your injector harness to the injector. learned this from personal experience.
hope this helps.
#3
Now that you mention it, instead of de-pinning the injector clips and doing it correctly, my friend did cut the clips and wire new ones in...
But would that cause the fuel pump to stop working?
Followup: how should the wires be connected? Meaning which color to which side?
Thank you for your help btw!
But would that cause the fuel pump to stop working?
Followup: how should the wires be connected? Meaning which color to which side?
Thank you for your help btw!
#4
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Now that you mention it, instead of de-pinning the injector clips and doing it correctly, my friend did cut the clips and wire new ones in...
But would that cause the fuel pump to stop working?
Followup: how should the wires be connected? Meaning which color to which side?
Thank you for your help btw!
But would that cause the fuel pump to stop working?
Followup: how should the wires be connected? Meaning which color to which side?
Thank you for your help btw!
not sure how it's wired since my injectors have plug-n-play clips and it's all black (not red + black).
if you already checked all the fuses, then only thing to do is to take the fuel rail off and try again.
i had a similar issue except i accidentally bolted down the fuel rail onto one of the plug-n-play clip wires and it kept shorting out my PGM-FI fuse, which prevented the fuel pump to prime. once i fixed that short and replaced the fuse, the fuel pump primed again.
#5
Update on the happenings so far:
Figured out the wiring, got injectors all connected, everything back, ignition on and off a few times to see if the fuel pump would magically start working, got nothing. There is no leak, and fuel is still travelling to fuel rail.
So now the next step I think is to go get a multimeter and test the fuses like you mentioned earlier, will update as I go.
Figured out the wiring, got injectors all connected, everything back, ignition on and off a few times to see if the fuel pump would magically start working, got nothing. There is no leak, and fuel is still travelling to fuel rail.
So now the next step I think is to go get a multimeter and test the fuses like you mentioned earlier, will update as I go.
#6
While I'm here:
Fuel pump works, forced power to it and it primes.
Fuse 15a under dash is fine, it has power when ignition is on.
404 has power, PGM FI has power, but somehow it's just not making it all the way to the fuel pump...
Would this be the reason my car isn’t starting? I can’t fully reach it but I’m thinking maybe that for somewhere?
Fuel pump works, forced power to it and it primes.
Fuse 15a under dash is fine, it has power when ignition is on.
404 has power, PGM FI has power, but somehow it's just not making it all the way to the fuel pump...
Would this be the reason my car isn’t starting? I can’t fully reach it but I’m thinking maybe that for somewhere?
Last edited by maxave; 07-24-2019 at 08:16 AM.
#7
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Location: Bay Area, California
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that's one of the grounding points for the harness to the motor.
just a bit odd that it stopped working.
if you turn the key to the II position (before you start the car), do you hear a click under the dash?
if not, you should check the relay. possibly unplug/replug the connector back into the relay. i think it's the PGM-FI relay. it sits right above where the footwell heater is. 10mm bolt holds it in place. i was able to unplug without removing the relay from the mounting point though.
IF you got this far with the relay dismounted and confirmed no clicking: remove the relay and open the relay up by using a flathead, bypassing the 'clips,' and see if the solder is broken/cracked anywhere on that board.
other than that, i have no idea what else to try
just a bit odd that it stopped working.
if you turn the key to the II position (before you start the car), do you hear a click under the dash?
if not, you should check the relay. possibly unplug/replug the connector back into the relay. i think it's the PGM-FI relay. it sits right above where the footwell heater is. 10mm bolt holds it in place. i was able to unplug without removing the relay from the mounting point though.
IF you got this far with the relay dismounted and confirmed no clicking: remove the relay and open the relay up by using a flathead, bypassing the 'clips,' and see if the solder is broken/cracked anywhere on that board.
other than that, i have no idea what else to try
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#8
Update: I went thorough every single thing again today, and it turned out to be a blue 15a fuse under the hood. After replacing this car started right up.
But for anyone that's going through anything similar, it's good to check:
PGM-FI, under your steering column. It's a brown relay.
15a fuse under the dash, the one after the 10a fuse.
Other 2 relays, one is light blue in between a grey and another light blue connector.
Under the hood, check your fuses.
But for anyone that's going through anything similar, it's good to check:
PGM-FI, under your steering column. It's a brown relay.
15a fuse under the dash, the one after the 10a fuse.
Other 2 relays, one is light blue in between a grey and another light blue connector.
Under the hood, check your fuses.
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