30,000 mile tune up Friday
05-25-2005, 12:19 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
30,000 mile tune up Friday
I'm having the 30K tune up done this Friday and wanted to have a complete all out 30K tune up. I was reading a thread a while back that was stating that besides the typical inspections and complete fluid changes that you needed to specify that you wanted a valve adjustment as part of the tune up, is this true and if so is there anything else I should have done that might be easily over looked by the mechanic? Every time I take my S in for a tune up, I feel as if the mechanics some times don't care too much about doing a thorough job on my car.
Yes I'm paranoid when it comes to the S
In case anyone asks, my owners manual is boxed up in storage and I can not get to it
Thanks in advance for any constructive input
Yes I'm paranoid when it comes to the S
In case anyone asks, my owners manual is boxed up in storage and I can not get to it
Thanks in advance for any constructive input
05-25-2005, 12:50 PM
#2
Member
Usually these is the main things you need to check/change:
Motor Oil + Filter (DIY, Honda OEM Filter + Mobile 1)
Radiator Fluid (DIY - Dispose the fluid in the toilet, CA waste managment processes the fluids so dont worry)
Differential Fluid (DIY but if you have them do it make sure the put in the RIGHT STUFF, cause I've heard MANY MANY horror stories about how they use CRV diff fluid, which does not have the viscocity to protect our diff. Basically means they're differential is toast. LE67 is what I use and meets all the REQ. )
Transmission fluid (DIY - Get Honda MTF if you get some grids you can try GM/ACDELCO Fric.Mod.Syncro. )
Valve adjustment (If there is any ticking, get it done its ~200 dollars but its WORTH IT)
Incabin Air filter - NEVER pay anyone to change this for you... PEACE OF PIE to do...
Tire pressure (33 PSI and your good to go - make sure 33PSI is when your tires are COLD not after a long drive/drift session
)
Brake (make sure your pads still have life, and if the brake peddal is feeling a little OOSHIE SMOOSHIE, get the brake fluid flushed and re-bled)
If you must -- go out and have them change it... but if you got a good buddy and some time... do it yourself.. only you appreciate/care for your car that much
I'll go to honda and find out what they do at 30k, but trust me its nothing you cant do....
I hope this helps - Its the least I could do for all that you've done
Motor Oil + Filter (DIY, Honda OEM Filter + Mobile 1)
Radiator Fluid (DIY - Dispose the fluid in the toilet, CA waste managment processes the fluids so dont worry)
Differential Fluid (DIY but if you have them do it make sure the put in the RIGHT STUFF, cause I've heard MANY MANY horror stories about how they use CRV diff fluid, which does not have the viscocity to protect our diff. Basically means they're differential is toast. LE67 is what I use and meets all the REQ. )
Transmission fluid (DIY - Get Honda MTF if you get some grids you can try GM/ACDELCO Fric.Mod.Syncro. )
Valve adjustment (If there is any ticking, get it done its ~200 dollars but its WORTH IT)
Incabin Air filter - NEVER pay anyone to change this for you... PEACE OF PIE to do...
Tire pressure (33 PSI and your good to go - make sure 33PSI is when your tires are COLD not after a long drive/drift session
)Brake (make sure your pads still have life, and if the brake peddal is feeling a little OOSHIE SMOOSHIE, get the brake fluid flushed and re-bled)
If you must -- go out and have them change it... but if you got a good buddy and some time... do it yourself.. only you appreciate/care for your car that much
I'll go to honda and find out what they do at 30k, but trust me its nothing you cant do....
I hope this helps - Its the least I could do for all that you've done
05-25-2005, 12:55 PM
#3
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Yes, the differential fluid should be changed as frequently as possible, BUT WITH THE RIGHT STUFF. A lot of dealerships put the crv fluid in (this is worse than not changing the fluid) and it toasted diffs instantly. At 30k id say the normal stuff is all the fluids.
As for the valve adjustment, they will try and get out of it because honda's reco is 100k miles or if there is excessive noise. However, if you never had one done, the most important valve adjustment is the one right after the motor is fully broken in as clearances will change. Valves on the loose side will make noise, valves too tight will burn, valves get tighter as mileage goes on as clearance shrinks with seat wear. The other thing is, the valve adjustment is a TLC item and this cannot be stressed enough, some dealerships do not give a damn if it is right on spec if they make adjustments. Other dealerships will not even make adjustments unless they are wayyy out of spec.
As for the valve adjustment, they will try and get out of it because honda's reco is 100k miles or if there is excessive noise. However, if you never had one done, the most important valve adjustment is the one right after the motor is fully broken in as clearances will change. Valves on the loose side will make noise, valves too tight will burn, valves get tighter as mileage goes on as clearance shrinks with seat wear. The other thing is, the valve adjustment is a TLC item and this cannot be stressed enough, some dealerships do not give a damn if it is right on spec if they make adjustments. Other dealerships will not even make adjustments unless they are wayyy out of spec.
05-25-2005, 12:56 PM
#4
Member
30,000 mi/48,000 km/2 yrs Scheduled Maintenance
Replace engine oil.
Check tire inflation and condition.
Inspect front and rear brakes.
Replace engine oil filter.
Check parking brake adjustment.
Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox and rack boots.
Inspect suspension components.
Inspect driveshaft boots.
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS).
Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids and check for leaks.
Inspect cooling system hoses and connections.
#Inspect exhaust system.
#Inspect fuel lines and connections.
# = See information on maintenance and emissions warranty, last column, page 153 of your owner's manual.
Replace air cleaner element.
Replace rear differential fluid.
Replace dust and pollen filter.
Inspect drive belt.
Replace engine oil.
Check tire inflation and condition.
Inspect front and rear brakes.
Replace engine oil filter.
Check parking brake adjustment.
Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox and rack boots.
Inspect suspension components.
Inspect driveshaft boots.
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS).
Check all fluid levels, condition of fluids and check for leaks.
Inspect cooling system hoses and connections.
#Inspect exhaust system.
#Inspect fuel lines and connections.
# = See information on maintenance and emissions warranty, last column, page 153 of your owner's manual.
Replace air cleaner element.
Replace rear differential fluid.
Replace dust and pollen filter.
Inspect drive belt.
REMEMBER.. tranny and diffy should have a SLIGHT overfill, because the pump that circulates the flui is a light higher (this is what I read) I dont know if they can do it for you at the dealerships.. but this is what I do.
I really hope this helps dreamcation
-Jeff
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05-25-2005, 02:43 PM
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if you DIY are you risking voiding your warranty? I would love to take my car in to Honda World yet I'm so afraid seeing that I just got it repainted. Honda World issued me an extended warranty free of charge. If I do all this stuff myself (i already do diff and tranny every other oil change) am i risking that warranty or not? I keep all my receipts...
another question is they replaced all the gaskets in the head (valve seats, valve seals,etc.) plus the head gasket plus rings in the bottom end. Does that mean that they more than likely adjusted the valves? Wasnt the head removed and dissasembled to do all that?
another question is they replaced all the gaskets in the head (valve seats, valve seals,etc.) plus the head gasket plus rings in the bottom end. Does that mean that they more than likely adjusted the valves? Wasnt the head removed and dissasembled to do all that?
