Clutch Install DIY
08-31-2018, 09:26 PM
#72
Alright, so long story short, I'm in the middle of doing this for the second time in three weeks to swap to my spare transmission. I left the very top bellhousing bolt out when I did my clutch a couple of weeks ago because I had a sneaking suspicion I'd be in there again very soon.
First time around sucked because the bolts were all incredibly stuck. I easily wasted two hours on the top starter bolt, three hours on figuring out how to get my stripped driveshaft bolts out, and three or four hours getting the transmission stabbed / removed from car. I spent probably 15 hours total.
I've got my original transmission on the floor and I will finish up the reinstall tomorrow but it took me two hours from time of jacking the car up this time to get this far. I figure another 2-3 hours tomorrow.
Some transmission removal tips:
1. Remove the rubber foot that prevents the motor from moving forward on the front subframe, this allows the motor to angle further. Put the stock scissor jack between the valve cover and intake box or whatever to angle the motor when stabbing / removing the transmission.
2. You don't NEED to remove the header, but it will save you time getting the transmission out of the car. If you don't remove the header the transmission basically needs to shift left at the rear and kinda barrel roll out once you've removed the shifter. Take the ten minutes to remove the header, I can't imagine getting the transmission back in like this. I would imagine an aftermarket header actually has more clearance and might make the job completely do-able without pulling the header.
3. The top starter bolt just needs a 14mm wobble socket, 12" extension, 6" extension, and a small wobble between the previously listed extensions and your 3/8" ratchet. It is easier to position the socket on the bolt from below the car with some flexibility after you feed the socket through to the approximate area it needs to be. I safety wired my wobble socket on to the extension to prevent it from coming off.
4. Buy all new driveshaft bolts and some bolt removal sockets if this is your first time taking the transmission out (https://i.imgur.com/wAnb439.png)
5. Buy the Harbor Freight transmission jack with the 20% off coupon for $88 if you're doing this solo, it makes life easy.
6. Just buy a 1/2" electric impact gun, a set of 1/2" and 3/8" impact wobble sockets from Harbor Freight, and a set of 1/2" impact extensions from Harbor Freight.
First time around sucked because the bolts were all incredibly stuck. I easily wasted two hours on the top starter bolt, three hours on figuring out how to get my stripped driveshaft bolts out, and three or four hours getting the transmission stabbed / removed from car. I spent probably 15 hours total.
I've got my original transmission on the floor and I will finish up the reinstall tomorrow but it took me two hours from time of jacking the car up this time to get this far. I figure another 2-3 hours tomorrow.
Some transmission removal tips:
1. Remove the rubber foot that prevents the motor from moving forward on the front subframe, this allows the motor to angle further. Put the stock scissor jack between the valve cover and intake box or whatever to angle the motor when stabbing / removing the transmission.
2. You don't NEED to remove the header, but it will save you time getting the transmission out of the car. If you don't remove the header the transmission basically needs to shift left at the rear and kinda barrel roll out once you've removed the shifter. Take the ten minutes to remove the header, I can't imagine getting the transmission back in like this. I would imagine an aftermarket header actually has more clearance and might make the job completely do-able without pulling the header.
3. The top starter bolt just needs a 14mm wobble socket, 12" extension, 6" extension, and a small wobble between the previously listed extensions and your 3/8" ratchet. It is easier to position the socket on the bolt from below the car with some flexibility after you feed the socket through to the approximate area it needs to be. I safety wired my wobble socket on to the extension to prevent it from coming off.
4. Buy all new driveshaft bolts and some bolt removal sockets if this is your first time taking the transmission out (https://i.imgur.com/wAnb439.png)
5. Buy the Harbor Freight transmission jack with the 20% off coupon for $88 if you're doing this solo, it makes life easy.
6. Just buy a 1/2" electric impact gun, a set of 1/2" and 3/8" impact wobble sockets from Harbor Freight, and a set of 1/2" impact extensions from Harbor Freight.
Last edited by Chibo; 08-31-2018 at 09:30 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Chibo:
pIERCE (09-02-2018),
vtecaddict (09-03-2018)
09-04-2018, 03:54 PM
#73
Alright, so long story short, I'm in the middle of doing this for the second time in three weeks to swap to my spare transmission. I left the very top bellhousing bolt out when I did my clutch a couple of weeks ago because I had a sneaking suspicion I'd be in there again very soon.
First time around sucked because the bolts were all incredibly stuck. I easily wasted two hours on the top starter bolt, three hours on figuring out how to get my stripped driveshaft bolts out, and three or four hours getting the transmission stabbed / removed from car. I spent probably 15 hours total.
I've got my original transmission on the floor and I will finish up the reinstall tomorrow but it took me two hours from time of jacking the car up this time to get this far. I figure another 2-3 hours tomorrow.
First time around sucked because the bolts were all incredibly stuck. I easily wasted two hours on the top starter bolt, three hours on figuring out how to get my stripped driveshaft bolts out, and three or four hours getting the transmission stabbed / removed from car. I spent probably 15 hours total.
I've got my original transmission on the floor and I will finish up the reinstall tomorrow but it took me two hours from time of jacking the car up this time to get this far. I figure another 2-3 hours tomorrow.
09-06-2018, 01:56 AM
#76
Here is a recent clutch install I did for a member on here. I could've taken more pictures but it was a pain to take pics with my SLR with dirty hands. If you're in socal I will do it for you at a low cost....
Follow me on IG for more pics: nalgas_de_fierro
To begin you need the following tools:
Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm
Wrenches
8mm allen wrench
At least two jack stands
At least 24 in of wobble extensions
Begin by removing the stock air box (3, 10mm bolts)
Attachment 117609
Attachment 117610
Attachment 117611
Remove the serpentine belt by moving the idler pulley counter-clockwise (14mm)
Attachment 117612
Remove the top alternator bolt (14mm)
Attachment 117613
Rotate alternator over clockwise
Attachment 117614
Insert the extensions and remove top starter bolt (14mm)
Attachment 117615
Attachment 117616
Remove the black heat shield (4, 10mm bolts)
Attachment 117617
Remove exhaust manifold heat shield (4, 12mm bolts)
Attachment 117618
Remove exhaust manifold nuts (7, 12mm nuts)
Go under the car and remove the manifold support (2, 14mm bolts)
Using two wrenches remove cat/header bolts (2, 12mm)
Under the subframe, remove motor mount nuts (4, 17mm)
Lift the passenger side of the motor about 2in and remove header from below.
On the driver side under the car, remove the A/C condenser bolts (4, 14mm)
Mark the position of the steering shaft and remove the bottom bolt (10mm)
Loosen the top bolt (10mm) and slide the joint towards the firewall
-Inside the car: remove the shift knob holding locking nut with 14mm wrench
-Remove the center console (it just snaps out, unplug two harnesses before removing)
Attachment 117619
-Using a flat head screwdriver, there are 4 arrows on the annular plastic piece, insert screwdriver and push towards the outside of the ring
Attachment 117620
Remove the shifter (3, 10mm bolts)
Attachment 117621
Back under the car:
Remove driveshaft bolts (8, 8mm allen wrench)
Remove the lower brace bar (3, 14mm per side)
Lower subframe (3 bolts per side, remove the middle one (19mm), the closest ones to the firewall are 17mm (back out 3 inches), the ones farthest away are 19mm (back out 3 inches)
Remove slave cylinder on transmission housing (2, 12mm)
Attachment 117622
With a jack support transmission housing and unbolt tranny mount (3, 14mm)
Attachment 117623
Remove transmission bolts (2, 14mm & 6, 17mm)
Disengage fork from throwout bearing
Lower jack and pull the transmission out until the main shaft is completely out
Attachment 117624
Remove pressure plate (12, 10mm 12 point nuts)
Attachment 117625
Random Pictures:
Worn out clutch:
Attachment 117626
Resurfaced flywheel
Attachment 117627
Brand new disk
Attachment 117628
Follow me on IG for more pics: nalgas_de_fierro
To begin you need the following tools:
Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm
Wrenches
8mm allen wrench
At least two jack stands
At least 24 in of wobble extensions
Begin by removing the stock air box (3, 10mm bolts)
Attachment 117609
Attachment 117610
Attachment 117611
Remove the serpentine belt by moving the idler pulley counter-clockwise (14mm)
Attachment 117612
Remove the top alternator bolt (14mm)
Attachment 117613
Rotate alternator over clockwise
Attachment 117614
Insert the extensions and remove top starter bolt (14mm)
Attachment 117615
Attachment 117616
Remove the black heat shield (4, 10mm bolts)
Attachment 117617
Remove exhaust manifold heat shield (4, 12mm bolts)
Attachment 117618
Remove exhaust manifold nuts (7, 12mm nuts)
Go under the car and remove the manifold support (2, 14mm bolts)
Using two wrenches remove cat/header bolts (2, 12mm)
Under the subframe, remove motor mount nuts (4, 17mm)
Lift the passenger side of the motor about 2in and remove header from below.
On the driver side under the car, remove the A/C condenser bolts (4, 14mm)
Mark the position of the steering shaft and remove the bottom bolt (10mm)
Loosen the top bolt (10mm) and slide the joint towards the firewall
-Inside the car: remove the shift knob holding locking nut with 14mm wrench
-Remove the center console (it just snaps out, unplug two harnesses before removing)
Attachment 117619
-Using a flat head screwdriver, there are 4 arrows on the annular plastic piece, insert screwdriver and push towards the outside of the ring
Attachment 117620
Remove the shifter (3, 10mm bolts)
Attachment 117621
Back under the car:
Remove driveshaft bolts (8, 8mm allen wrench)
Remove the lower brace bar (3, 14mm per side)
Lower subframe (3 bolts per side, remove the middle one (19mm), the closest ones to the firewall are 17mm (back out 3 inches), the ones farthest away are 19mm (back out 3 inches)
Remove slave cylinder on transmission housing (2, 12mm)
Attachment 117622
With a jack support transmission housing and unbolt tranny mount (3, 14mm)
Attachment 117623
Remove transmission bolts (2, 14mm & 6, 17mm)
Disengage fork from throwout bearing
Lower jack and pull the transmission out until the main shaft is completely out
Attachment 117624
Remove pressure plate (12, 10mm 12 point nuts)
Attachment 117625
Random Pictures:
Worn out clutch:
Attachment 117626
Resurfaced flywheel
Attachment 117627
Brand new disk
Attachment 117628
09-07-2018, 12:33 PM
#77
Ohhhh good times. I remember the first and last time I did a clutch job on my car it took a lot longer than expected too. All my bolts were seized and took 500lbs of force to break them loose. I was literally hanging my entire weight off the breaker bar on my back under the car breaking mad sweat bitching and moaning and cussing at my car lol.
09-08-2018, 01:05 AM
#78
I also remember the first time I pulled the transmission on my s2000. The whole job pro took me 3-4 days total and about 20+ hours of bitching. Now I have probably done it close to 10times and I can get it all day by myself with no lift in like half a day easy. I also highly recommend the harbor fright transmission jack. You don’t need it and can install the transmission with a normal jack but you life will just be a lot easier with a transmission jack. Make sure you have Allen sockets with a wobble extension for the propeller shaft bolts. You will probably stripe the bolts if you use the 90 degree Allen wrench.
09-10-2018, 03:13 PM
#79
Also use less extension pieces by using longer extensions. No more than 3 extensions. The more you use the more give/movement there is between each piece, harder to feel the bolt, more likely to strip a bolt. Also you'll have to break the bolt loose by hand. Can not use an impact wrench. The extension pieces will absorb the impact and never break the damn top bolt loose
09-18-2018, 05:14 AM
#80
Not sure if this has been posted in this thread but this saved me yesterday and I would recommend it for anyone struggling/unsure about that starter bolt. Just remove the alternator instead of tilting it to the right (only two electrical connections and one more bolt), then remove the intake manifold support bracket (4 bolts) and then the tensioner bracket will come out.
From here, you can see the starter bolt and can get to it with straight extensions. After finally getting this done yesterday, I personally recommend doing it this way, especially if you are uneasy about the knock sensor or rounding that starter bolt. should also make reassembly easier
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un.../#post23089562
From here, you can see the starter bolt and can get to it with straight extensions. After finally getting this done yesterday, I personally recommend doing it this way, especially if you are uneasy about the knock sensor or rounding that starter bolt. should also make reassembly easier
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un.../#post23089562