Headlight restoration
The following users liked this post:
txhatch (04-04-2018)
04-03-2018, 02:19 PM
#3
Registered User
04-03-2018, 06:50 PM
#6
I've used Mother's Aluminum Polish (recommended by a friend) with a microfiber cloth on my old EP3 and it worked great with no hazing coming back. I haven't had haze on the S yet.
Trending Topics
04-03-2018, 09:59 PM
#8
I personally had issues with the heat from the fenders cracking the clear-coat I had put on my headlights.
I used 400 to 2500 grit sandpaper (and increments in between to clarify) to wet sand both sets of headlights, followed by Meguiar’s PlastX and XPel clear film over. Haven’t had any issues for the past year or so, and the film is nice and thick but not too thick where cracking will occur.
I used 400 to 2500 grit sandpaper (and increments in between to clarify) to wet sand both sets of headlights, followed by Meguiar’s PlastX and XPel clear film over. Haven’t had any issues for the past year or so, and the film is nice and thick but not too thick where cracking will occur.
04-04-2018, 07:20 AM
#9
Registered User
wondering if they're not applying the clear coat correctly and it has lasted longer for you?
04-04-2018, 08:44 AM
#10
No tools are required.
you only use the glove for when applying clear coat, and you are going to want apply alot. There is a guy who left a review; whom said it best.
I posted his instructions below/
"1. Honestly set aside at least an hour and 30 minutes. The box says 30 minutes, but that's bologna. I did exactly what the box said and it took me an hour and a half given my headlight damage.
2. The glove that comes with it is for the last step (applying the UV coating). When I saw the glove and didn't see any mention of it on the first 2 pages, I put it on. It won't hurt to put it on right away, but it's really for the last step.
3. The Step 1 Surface Activator is used in more than 1 step! I ended up using 2/3rds of the bottle by graciously spraying it all over both my headlights. This made for a skimpy amount when you reapply it after the sanding procedure. In actuality, there you should only use 1/4 of a bottle per headlight for a total of 4 times.
4. In the sanding step where it says apply medium pressure, really do apply medium pressure. The only time you apply firm pressure is in the last step of sanding with the 2000 grit sandpaper. Although my headlights look great, if you look real close, you can see some scratches that are still there. It's because I applied firm pressure with the 400 grit. I thought the firmer the pressure, the quicker I could get the hazing/yellowing out. Well because of that, there were some scratches that were deeper than they should have been.
5. In the last step where you apply the UV block clear coat, douse your blue cloth with it. You want your towel saturated. Don't worry about wasting it because you won't. I doused mine and had about 1/3rd of a bottle left. The reason you want a heavy saturation on the blue towel is because you want a nice heavy coat of the stuff on your headlights. Heavy coat = heavy clear coat = lasts longer. Thin coat will wear away quicker over time. So remember, put a HEAVY COAT on it!"
you only use the glove for when applying clear coat, and you are going to want apply alot. There is a guy who left a review; whom said it best.
I posted his instructions below/
"1. Honestly set aside at least an hour and 30 minutes. The box says 30 minutes, but that's bologna. I did exactly what the box said and it took me an hour and a half given my headlight damage.
2. The glove that comes with it is for the last step (applying the UV coating). When I saw the glove and didn't see any mention of it on the first 2 pages, I put it on. It won't hurt to put it on right away, but it's really for the last step.
3. The Step 1 Surface Activator is used in more than 1 step! I ended up using 2/3rds of the bottle by graciously spraying it all over both my headlights. This made for a skimpy amount when you reapply it after the sanding procedure. In actuality, there you should only use 1/4 of a bottle per headlight for a total of 4 times.
4. In the sanding step where it says apply medium pressure, really do apply medium pressure. The only time you apply firm pressure is in the last step of sanding with the 2000 grit sandpaper. Although my headlights look great, if you look real close, you can see some scratches that are still there. It's because I applied firm pressure with the 400 grit. I thought the firmer the pressure, the quicker I could get the hazing/yellowing out. Well because of that, there were some scratches that were deeper than they should have been.
5. In the last step where you apply the UV block clear coat, douse your blue cloth with it. You want your towel saturated. Don't worry about wasting it because you won't. I doused mine and had about 1/3rd of a bottle left. The reason you want a heavy saturation on the blue towel is because you want a nice heavy coat of the stuff on your headlights. Heavy coat = heavy clear coat = lasts longer. Thin coat will wear away quicker over time. So remember, put a HEAVY COAT on it!"
The following users liked this post:
Chris_Lum (04-04-2018)